Sika DriTac - Professional Wood Floor Repair Adhesive - White - Repairs Gaps and Hollow Spots - for pros and DIYers - 1 Qt.

Stuff worked like a charm. Drilled the holes, made small plugs to pound in holes afterwards. Stuff is thin, but thickens up / drys fast. Was a bit difficult to inject ( I used large 250ml syringes). As long as I went slow and steady with plunger, it went smoothly. Reduced messiness by pulling back on plunger before removing from hole. Ended up with only a drop here and there. Hollow sound gone. I assume it will stay that way when it fully dries.

We have a 3200 square foot house that has wood over concrete in all the main areas including kitchen, dining room, foyer, and hallway. We are trying to sell the house and I mopped and waxed the floor so much that I apparently killed the glue in many spots. My husband also had a toilet overflow before we were married and it poured into the dining room, kitchen, and livingroom area, also loosening the glue. I bought 32oz and I was able to do about 1/3 of our floor problems. I ended up rebuying the gallon which is the best value.Insturctions say don't put weight on the repairs. That didn't work at all for us. The best seals were when we put 80lb bags of concrete on top of the patches for 24 hours. I would fill the hole, let it level for 10 min, put a plastic bag over the hold to catch glue that came to the top, and put the bag on top.My best syringe was a 2oz syringe I got at my local feed store for $1. I also got their biggest size needle and cut the top off. Perfection. After about 6-8 fills I would wash the needle and syringe to prevent clogging. We used a very small drill bit & drilled in corners of junctions. Once I injected the glue and it dried there was no need to fill hole with a dowel or glue. The hole was virtually undetectable.I would recommend this product and also recommend if you have lot of spots, or large spots like we did, to go for the gallon. 32oz was $42 for me. The gallon (128oz) was $85. Cost effective.

I'll start with mentioning that it's very important to know what KIND of creaking you have in your hardwoods.The kind of creaking determines what's actually wrong:Possibility 1: Is the creak high and squeaky? Then it's more likely to be spacing between your hardwoods and the subfloor.Possibility 2: Is the creak low and croaky? Then it's more likely to be spacing between your subfloor and the joists.Why is this important you wonder?Because the method you use to fix either Possibility 1 or 2 is DIFFERENT! Go figure.If your symptoms are characterized by Possibility 1, then you want the DriTac.If it's Possibility 2, then you want the "Squeek No More" bad boy set: https://smile.amazon.com/Squeeeek-No-More-3232-Hardwood/dp/B00GO86RNQ/.Trust me.I first had no idea of the different possibilities and bought the 32oz beauty called DriTac, pumped the full quart of undoubtedly fantastic sticky, gluey, tacky substance between my engineered hardwoods and the subfloors... aaaaaand the creaking was still there.Lo and behold, I learn there is a DIFFERENCE between SQUEAKY and CROAKY.For the mere fact that I was unable to verify the usefulness of DriTac, I can only judge its effectiveness by the pragmatic procedures and guidelines of its use. It made sense - stuff the empty space with DriTac til it overflows.However, I take 1 star away from this product for not specifying the difference between squeaks and croaks, and for its generic market banner that attempts to brand itself as an all-around fix for ALL the possible causes of noisy hardwoods (clearly, in my case, it did not work because the problem was in the joists).Good luck.

After my first (and last) DIY engineered glue down hard-wood project, I noticed ca. 5 boards not adhering and having the hollow sound when walking over them.After a quick research I ordered this adhesive.I drilled holes, the diameter of a round tooth pick into the joint section of the hollow and popping boards, and used some run of the mill injection syringes with different tip sizes, which I ordered here from Amazon. Much cheaper than getting the whole kit.The glue is the consistency of body lotion and I had to inject quite a few of the syringes content underneath the boards.Be aware the results are not instant, so after about 10 applications it still sounded hollow and when stepping on the boards, the glue oozed out slightly. After ca. 10-20% of the bottles content I decided to wait until the next day. Low and behold, over night once the glue set, it pulled and glued down the boards. No more popping and the hollow sound is gone. Still have to fill up the small drill holes with either toothpick pieces and/or color matched silicone/putty. Happy with the results and can recommend the product.

After warming up warped floor boards with steam iron, I injected glue into hole drilled thru floor. Added about 75 lbs weight and after 24 hours, floor was completely flat! Alas, within a week, floor had bubbled up back to same height. Will next try drilling in screw and covering tap hole with wood filler. Recommend you skip this glue step since not worthwhile.

I had hi hopes that this would work to fill a void under some LVP. I injected 1 syringe full over 2 weeks ago and it still has not dried and wants to come out of the hole so I keep tape there until I can find 1/8" dowel