Square D HEPD80 Universal Whole House Surge Protection Device, 1-Phase, 3-Wire for 120/240V, 80kA

After a power surge form a blown transformer that took out our refrigerator, dryer, two security cameras, two window fans, an electrical outlet and a motion detected outdoor light, I felt a need to protect my electrical appliances in the event of another power surge. With a $1000 deductible insurance plan, it still cost me over $1000 out of pocket to replace everything. I installed this on the main busbar in the circuit panel, ahead of the circuit breakers. It was very easy to install if you know a little about electricity. If it works, it will be well worth the $100 spent instead of $1000 if another power surge occurs.

Installed four for family over the holidays, this was the only one of the external units, since all but 2 breaker slots were occupied, and never throwing away the final 2 expansions! Installation was trivial, even bolted to the backplane bolts (see instructions for that detail). A 2 lug breaker/dummy isn't necessary, however, leave extra length for the 2 hot leads, and have someone experienced with working in panels made those 2 connections. Presuming you know how to connect ground and neutral safely in a circuit panel, you would later be able to power down the whole panel, cut the hot leads with enough excess length to wire nut the replacement unit's hot leads to the original wires when your initial suppressor has fried. You shouldn't need to clamp into the bus bars ever again. This needs to sit outside the panel, and the deepest 1/2" punch outs closest to the wall might not leave enough room for the box, we used a middle punch out. I used an extra threaded conduit nut on the inside and outside of the panel box so the surge suppressor case itself wasn't stressed. The green light is very reassuring that the panel is hot and surge suppression is active, but you might need a bit of electrical tape to cover if it is mounted in a bedroom or similar. If this can't be mounted directly to a panel because it is embedded in the wall, then order their recommended mounting kit, you won't regret it. (We were lucky and didn't need it.)

Easy install, using Wago 221-615 as connectors in my HVAC compressor disconnect box. Yes, 80KA is a bit of overkill for a compressor, but ... Obviously well made by a reputable company. Less stress knowing my fairly new 4 ton Trane XV18 is well protected.

The is my second whole house surge protector on the house I’ve owned for 10 years. I bought this more powerful one to replace the existing one because I wanted a higher level of protection against the lightning that’s common where I live. In the process of researching this replacement, I learned that power surges also come from within the house, from items with motors, and this device protects against those surges, too. Square D has been in the electrical business for a very long time, so I felt certain of the quality. If you have electronics in your home—and who doesn’t—you should consider adding one of these to your electrical panel.

This unit will work with pretty much any mfg. breaker box. Square D reputation and reliability is stellar. 80KVA is probably the minimum size to use for whole house surge protection. It won’t protect “better”, but because they are sacrificial units they will last longer before needing to be replaced. This unit is designed for AC power line protection only. Units that protect cable & phone will require (re)running those lines to your breaker box. I didn’t want to do that. Unless you are installing outdoors, the NEMA rating really doesn’t matter. Install is generally straightforward, but is a little “fussy”. Read the directions! Remember to shut off your main breaker 1st and note that the input lugs are still always hot. The Hot lines should be connected as close as possible to your 1st two circuit breaker circuits. The unit should be installed as close as possible to the chosen breaker. Keep your lines as short as possible- no loops or kinks. If possible, twist your leads. The leads are long 30”), heavy gauge, and pretty stiff. Maybe from the way they are compactly wound for packaging. The only glitch I had was that the unit didn’t want to work when I 1st powered things up. The second power cycle was the charm and it’s been up ever since.

I live in Central Florida, the lightening capital. During summer time, severe storms including lightening are daily occurrence. Finally, I had a chance to purchase and install a whole house surge protector unit. I installed it at main disconnect, which is right next to the power meter on outside wall. Installation involved knocking out a punch-out and installed this device, wire 4 leads to newly installed circuit breakers, then tidy everything up. Very easy 20 minutes job. No difficulty, no confusion, straight forward job. But I do have an electrical license, so I am quite familiar with this type of installations. Previous to this installation, I upgraded my grounding from just one rod to 3 rods, so I can guarantee low resistance/impedance path for the surge. My plan is, this particular installation will take care of incoming surge energy via power line. If you have never done any electrical work or your experience is limited to minor repairs, I do not recommend DIYing this. It's an easy job but mistake can cost you dearly and deadly. Typical incoming feed for American homes are 200 amps at 240 volts. Not only major electrical shock will be a problem but blast of arc can also kill you or severely injure you. I am also going to purchase another one and install it at the main sub-panel inside the house. This will take care of appliance generated surges. I have a large air conditioning unit and refrigerator. Those are the main suspect, but anything with inductive load can generate a spike. For sensitive electronics, such as computers, at each outlet, I have yet another surge protector followed up UPS. Telephone lines are disconnected/cutoff outside as I do not use them. I see cable/internet is coming in but it is also via a vendor supplied surge suppression at the main grounding location. My hope is, I have done enough to significantly reduce damage. Although major direct hit will probably destroy everything, that's what insurance is for.... for everything else, I have done everything I can. Oh, yes, the product came in good shape, fast, and the usual Amazon way.

I was a bit unsure at first, but I’m so glad I got it. My neighbor hosue got hit with lightning so i had to get this. this was a 20 minutes installation. great and hopefully will protect mine in the case. What I really like is how simple and convenient it is to use. Everything about it feels reliable and thoughtfully designed. I’m already thinking about getting another one for our rental house.

Installed this Type 1 SPD in a Square D Main panel (will work with any panel with 1/2” knock outs) using the Direct method to L1/L2 posts below Main breaker as per device instructions. The Direct method Saves needing/using a dedicated breaker or wiring to existing breaker in panel. If mounting the SPD to the Main breaker lugs you will need to turn off the Main breaker when changing the SPD out if it fails after a surge. If using a separate breaker you only need to turn that single breaker off to change the SPD. I don’t gamble and always turn off the Main breaker when working on a panel so Direct wiring to L1/L2 is no issue for me. If you are electrically savvy, it’s a 15 minute job (using Direct method), 30 minutes if you aren’t. If you need to move breakers to get an open spot under the main you’re probably looking at an hour depending on how many you need to move. Understand that no Surge Protection Device protects from a direct lightning strike to your home. You should use SPD’s (Type 2) on each sub panel and quality outlet surge protectors at home electronics device outlets. Layered protection is best. Using a single SPD is a gamble.