Pond Shield Pond Armor SKU-BLACK-QT-R Non Toxic Epoxy Paint, 1.5-Quart, Black

Very sticky, covered my pond and still happy three years later

I used this to seal a concrete based, brick-built and rendered pond 20 cm below and 50cm above ground. Five days after three coats we had a lot of rain I now have negative pressure groundwater leaking into my pond where it has split the brittle, tissue paper thick layer that this product dries to. Might be ok for a professionally made solid concrete, fully waterproofed pond but not at all forgiving and in my opinion not suitable for an amateur pond builder unless you are certain your pond is perfectly stable and completely leak-proof before you apply it.

This is a great product to use. The instructions in the box are very easy to follow. Stuff is a little messy but want paint isn't. The final product is awesome.. Couldn't have been happier.

I bought 2 cans this to seal a 48” x 30” x 36” plywood tank. The structure is solid with 2” x 2” wood strips framed around top and bottom and 1/2” plywood on both sides. I applied pond armor and fiberglass all the seems. I let the whole thing cure for 2 weeks before doing a water test. Upon performing the water test I discovered a leak at the bottom of the tank. I called customer support and discussed the issue and was advised to buy more pond armor and recoat my tank. I did that and still the leak appeared in the same spot. I called again only to be told that pond armor is very brittle and even the slightest of movement will break the bond between the epoxy and will create a leak. I wish I knew this before purchasing this item 4 times only to figure out another way to waterproof the tank.NOT WORTH IT. STAY AWAY

I applied Pond Shield (black) on a newly poured concrete fountain basin that had been fully dried and cured according to the cement manufacturer specifications. All suggestions below are for application to a ~30 square foot, rough concrete surface. In general, I am happy with the Pond Shield coating, but was a little frustrated by the instruction sheet included with the product and feel it could have been more clear about mixing requirements and preparation. Here are my observations to hopefully help out other installers:1. The package comes with two cans: Part A (rubberized epoxy) and Part B (an activator). There are no measuring cups in the box despite what it says on the carton, so you'll need to provide your own. For small jobs of around 20-30 square feet, you could probably get by with (2) disposable sets of (1) cup & (1/2) cup. I recommend also getting at least (2) small, quart sized mixing cups (at the paint store), at least (2) 4" paint roller trays, and a 6-pack of rollers. I used a 4" premium lint-free roller (for semi-smooth surfaces) and was happy with the application texture. You'll also need a set of measuring spoons for the alcohol (thinning agent) needed to thin out Part-B before adding it to Part-A2. The instructions inform you that Part B (activator) should be thinned with either denatured alcohol or 99% isopropyl alcohol. Depending on where you are in the country (USA), you may have a hard time finding these products, so plan ahead. I got lucky and ended up finding 99.9% isopropyl at an electronics specialty store in my area. Drugstores will often stock 91% isopropyl, but nothing higher. Again, it's worth planning ahead and putting a quart of 99% in your Amazon order along with the Pond Shield. (As a side note, if you go the denatured alcohol route, it's worth confirming that any product you buy has a high percentage of ethanol instead of methyl alcohol and other adulterants which don't do as good a job at thinning out paint products.)3. For concrete surfaces, the Pond Shield instructions instruct you to treat the surface with a 3part Water to 1part Muriatic acid solution. You can buy this online or at your local masonry supply store. You'll need chemical resistant gloves, eye protection, and (ideally) an acid/gas respirator when prepping this solution, so plan ahead. The instructions say to wash away the solution after you've let it etch the concrete (I gave it about 5 min. of working time) but if you're working in a fountain basin you may need to siphon out the water and use a large sponge to clean up the final wetness.4. IMPORTANT: If working in a basin, I recommend flooding the entire feature to completely neutralize the acid before draining and letting the feature dry off. I might even flood and wash it out twice for good measure. If ANY acid is left on the concrete, you may have issues with the acid residue off gassing after applying the Pond Shield, creating little bubbles throughout the coating. I had this issue, but only on the bottom of the water feature. Because the sides of the fountain were not affected by the bubbles, I assume this effect was created by some of the acid that had not fully washed out of the bottom of the fountain which then reacted with the Pond Shield coating.4. This product flows really well and paints on similar to a latex paint, so a roller works really well. You've got about 45 minutes of working time in mild temperatures (75deg) with a shaded work space. Final finish is smooth and very high gloss. Hardens up within a few hours of application, so keep the working area CLEAN and free of dust in the meantime unless you want to have grit embedded in your coating.I think that's about it, hopefully this information helps other people plan ahead when using this product!

Loved this last year it worked perfectly for our application, but 1 winter later (we covered and stored this dry over Ontario winter) it’s turned into a brittle, dry papery like finish which has formed cracks and has peeled. We really loved it. It seems hard to get so likely we won’t be doing it again on this application.

This is probably not an intended use for the product, but I was at a crossroads when updating my basement bathroom: I needed to either switch my shower pan or coat it in a type of black water-friendly epoxy. I also had a situation where I had bare wood, PVC joints, and some cracks that needed to be sealed. Because of this and because I already had the surround tiled, I opted to try this product after quite a bit of research. Worst thing: I'm out $60 and move forward with changing out the pan.To prep, I cleaned all applicable surfaces extensively with bleach. Then I applied PVC primer on all the plastic surfaces. The product is thick, so taping off areas with painters tape worked very well for clean lines. I opted to use 90% isopropyl that I had around... I'm in Minnesota, and just about the only places I could find that had 99% were certain hardware stores if they carried epoxy type paint products, and they were at least in gallon sizes and expensive. You could probably order smaller/cheaper 99% isopropyl online along with this paint, but at the time I was taking on this project it wasn't really an option because of the pandemic. 90% worked fine for me, it probably would have been better to use 99% for better paint mixture and finish.Working with the product wasn't too bad. I made sure to work in batches using disposable cups, making about 8oz at a time. What I loved about this paint was that it had little to no odor; if anything it faintly smelled like ball point pen ink. The epoxy also didn't eat up any of my cheap foam brushes or rollers along the way. Clean up was also easy with the isopropyl. All these factors did not apply with other DIY epoxy kits I've tried, which was huge because I was working in a poorly ventilated bathroom and had pets that were sensitive to fumes.Drying time took a little longer than expected and the finish occasionally left bubbles of unset epoxy. I attribute this to not using better isopropyl and possibly having mix ratios slightly off. It actually worked in my favor because the product dries glossy and having texture from the bubbles was a good safety measure. Also because my situation called for black paint and was in low light, I had no problems with an inconsistent finish. If a perfect finish is desired, I don't think this paint would be capable of that nor is it really intended for that.I've been using the shower regularly with no complications for a few months. I've dropped things on it many times and it all still holds up. It also appears to have sealed my wood, gaps and cracks very well, preventing mildew from getting in. Even if the finish becomes compromised over time, I'll have no problem touching it up. I'm so glad I came across this!