4K HDMI edid Emulator passthrough -Default Resolution 1920x1080@60Hz Highest 3840x2160@60Hz - for Mac Thunderbolt to HDMI Switches/Extender/AV Receiver/Video Splitters

Worked perfectly for my situation with a computer and a home theater receiver. I can't speak to longevity yet.I have a Beelink N100 computer on Windows 11 (resolution is set to 1920x1080) and a Pioneer Elite VSX receiver. Once I installed the edid emulator I could turn on the computer without the receiver being on (let alone being set to the correct input) and the computer would display once I switched to the correct input. Without the adapter it was a crap shoot if the computer/receiver would see each other and display.

Like a lot of people, I now periodically work from home and use a common set of monitors for my work laptop and home PC. As an inexpensive solution, I have a cheap HDMI selector (~$12) switch between the two computers outputting to a 2K 32" monitor. It actually works great, but because I'm using multiple monitors on the work laptop, the screens make the be-dink sound and completely rearrange all of the windows and icons when I disconnect the big monitor to check something on my home PC. Then when I switch back to the work laptop the monitors go back to normal, but the windows and icons are all crammed onto the laptop screen. Adding this device (2560x1440 version) at the end of the HDMI cable from the work laptop just before my switcher makes my laptop think that the big 32" screen is always there, even when it disconnects. So it keeps all of my windows arranged so that I can quickly switch back to the work laptop and pick up right where I left off.So far it's a great device. We'll see about longevity and how it reacts when I come back the first time from the office.

I needed to use this with an HDMI extender and unfortunately no matter what resolution or refresh rate I tried, the monitor would not show any signal with this device in line. I tried both directions (at the back of the pc, and the at the input to the HDMI extender). Did not work either way.

I needed to find an EDID that would let my Mac Studio differentiate between multiple video outputs that were connected to multiple IPLinx video encoders (i.e. a video network). Since each video encoder looks the same to the Mac, the outputs would often get reassigned during the Mac's boot up process. I had to buy several different brands of these low cost EDID devices in order to find ones that would be recognized as being different from each other by the Mac, so that the Mac would consistently hold the desired configuration across the multiple video outputs.This EDID device ended up being one of the ones that would appear differently to the Mac.

I use four of these between several Windows and Linux PCs and an HDMI KVM switch. Without these as I toggled the KVM between different inputs the PCs saw a monitor disconnect and reconfigured their outputs. With these on each KVM input it presents as an active device and the PCs do not have to set and reset video out every time I switch.Be aware that I ordered four and one was only a 2K version, not a 4K. It did not support my 4K monitor. Quickly replaced (easy with Amazon!) but it is clear that it is important to use the right version for your need. My 4K ones do not support 60Hz refresh at 4K (3840 x 2160) resolution but do support 29.97 or 30Hz. Good enough.

I initially reviewed this adapter at 5 stars. It worked fantastically for my purposes. I use a mClassic dongle to upscale my Nintendo Switch to 1440p, but my TV refuses to recognize the 1440p input signal from it, as apparently many 4K televisions struggle with. Who knew? But this dongle forces the TV to recognize the signal as 1440p, and it worked great for a while. However, in the past two weeks, it's been acting up. I'll be playing games, and suddenly my screen will go black for a few seconds. This is REALLY inconvenient when I'm playing a racing game like F-ZERO 99. And it's been happening more and more frequently as time goes on. I was concerned that my Switch dock might have been failing, or even my mClassic, as those are much more active devices. I even tried replacing the HDMI cable itself to a known good higher bandwidth cable. In the end, I removed this dongle and the blackouts stopped happening. I think it's spontaneously cutting out every so often and my TV switches resolutions until it reestablishes the signal from this adapter and switches back. There is a remote possibility that it's my TV acting up with the 1440p signal, but I don't think so, as other devices connected to my TV in 1440p, such as a Raspberry Pi, manage to function without these blinking episodes. I might try on another TV just to try to eliminate the possibility that it's the TV acting up, but it's not looking good for this dongle. As such, I'm dropping my review to 3 stars until I can find a way to prove it's the TV acting up.

I use this with my mClassic and LG CX TV to force 1440p. It works flawlessly. It even works to push my original Xbox One and PS3 to 1440p. Granted, in order to make the PS3 work, I had to use an HDMI splitter to strip off HDCP. As HDCP prevents this adapter from displaying an image. So if your LG OLED TV doesn't recognize 1440p with your mClassic, give this a go.

Plagued with so many video issues with my TESMart 8-port HDMI KVM, I thought all was lost. Then came these adapters. They saved my sanity.Rebooting attached devices, installing OSs from scratch, or just switching from 1 to 3 to 7. I would, so often, get failed video. ESPECIALLY with Linux.Plugged these babies inline and now, SERENITY!