GLITTER 801H Battery Spot Welder 21 KW Capacitor Energy Storage Pulse Welding Machine, Mini Portable Spot Welding Equipment for 18650, LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Pack Building

I had one of those welders with the battery in it and it worked OK turned up to Max when it was new but after 6 months the battery got too much internal resistance and it wouldn't work at all.This one works great. Like others have said it needs turned up higher than the manual says to. Welding .15 pure nickel on 1865s I had it set at 42 and it never missed a beat. Plugged it in and let the capacitor charge for 20 minutes while I got the hand held ready. Had to adjust the tips as close together as they would go for the + end of the batterys. Built a 4P8S pack in a matter of minutes and this thing never complained, even the hand pen stayed cool. Only complaint was it worked so well the fun was over before I was ready for it to be.

Overall, I am happy with the product, but there are a few things to know. Note: I am a retired engineer.First, this is a supercapacitor-based welder. That means it needs to charge up the capacitor to work. There is a review on YouTube complaining it does not function at all, but the voltage display in the video is clearly 0. It takes 20+ minutes to get to the required ~5.5v for welding. Be patient.Next, the recommended welding settings in the manual are way off. I tested pure nickel 0.15mm and 0.2mm strips after charging the capacitor for more than 30 minutes reaching a voltage of ~5.7v. The manual claims a setting of 15t for 0.15 and 25t for 0.2, but to get a good weld I needed 40t and 80t, respectively. This was done with what I consider to be the proper welding tip pressure (firm, but not excessive). I did not test 0.3mm strips, but I suspect it won't handle it. Despite the need for much higher settings, the welds were excellent, with no burning or discoloration, and very little carbon on the tips after dozens of welds.Finally, I found that the pressure needed to trigger the welds in AT mode was too high, and I got better welds using the foot pedal. I suspect the welding wand is not properly calibrated, but I prefer the foot pedal anyway.If you are looking for a battery spot welder to make your own battery packs, this is a good choice.

Can actually weld thick nickel on the tool batteries.

I purchased this because I'm building a battery bank with 2170 cells and the specs state it can handle 0.20 nickel strips. It barely handled the job and quit working just 5 strips in and now has an error code E-2 that won't clear and there is nothing in the manual or anywhere that tells how to clear it, which has rendered it useless.

Welder worked ok but welding handle is a complete joke and uselessI returned

Glitter 801H worked great for my 21700 battery pack with 0.2mm thick pure solid nickel strips. I used it at maximum voltage (6V) mode and the timer setting is 25t. Here are some tips: If you weld two nickel strips together weld them on conductive surface with low adhesion properties (aluminum or copper will work fine) and do not weld them on wood or on plastic. For better welt use more power and less time (in case of this welder more voltage and less time). Clean the welding pencils tips with fine abrasive sponge with Dremel after welding a group of batteries. Press the welding pencils uniting the spring inside the pens start compressing (maybe 0.5-1 kg of force).

Still works after 2 years of very light use. Works with almost all Nickel strip except for the thickest. Charges VERY slowly, perhaps by design? Plan for 6 hours lead time.

Does as it claims. Has a large range of current output. The 'recommended thickness reference' table didn't seem right. I had to deviate from the recommended range to get a strong spot weld. Could be my nickel is impure, but more likely they're just bad ranges. The crappy $50 spot welder was producing stronger spot welds than the recommended table reference settings. I set it higher and I got really good spot welds with this product. I'll be testing it on .20mm nickel strips soon.