Rust-Oleum 60009 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 1 Car Kit, High Gloss Mocha

I, like everyone else, researched this process for weeks before deciding on the Rest-Oleum Rock Solid Garage Kit (the 20X version) in light gray. After reading many many reviews about the problems where people ran out of product or the coat was too thin or they could see color of the concrete below due to being too thin of a coat, rollers falling apart etc., I decided I did not want those issues so I started doing some math. My 2 car garage is exactly 410 Sq feet. There are a couple of nooks so it is not exactly square but I meticulously measured everything to make sure I had exact sq. ft. numbers I was trying to cover. From the comments of others, I deduced I would need two full 2.5 garage kits (4 burst pouches) to get the coverage I wanted.Preparation was a bear for me. The concrete is almost 60 years old and there were plenty of cracks and a lot of the rocks in the old cement that were just under the surface popped so I had significant pitting. They must have used a percentage of an inferior type of stone that was black and very soft. When I was doing my prep, the pitting was all because of these softer stones that seemed to have just turned to a black dust when I scraped during my process of fixing and leveling. To make matters worse, 20 years ago, I used an epoxy paint so I had that to deal with. I did not want to go thru the process of grinding the entire floor so I used my portable hand grinder with a grinding wheel and then really tuff sanding disks (about 40 grit I would say) to grind out the cracks and pits as best I could. I used self-leveling cement primed with the Self leveling solution that is supposed to help the cement adhere to existing cement in the cracks and pits then sanded that cement work when it dried using the grinder to get everything level. Perfect is the enemy of good so I decided I would use the Rust-Oleum Re-Coat Primer, to save time. I degreased the rest of the floor with Simple Green and got on my hands and knees and scrubbed the heck out of it hard with brushes and sponges to get every trace of dirt, spider poops, any oil etc. off.When I was satisfied with the cleaning and restoration, I used about 1.75 gallons of the Re-Coat primer and followed the instructions and let that dry overnight. In my mind I wanted to use 100% of the 2 Epoxy Kits that I bought the next day. I wanted a surefire method to evenly coat the floor with my 2 kits so I used a pencil to split and clearly mark my 410 Sq ft int 4 exact 103 Square foot sections. My thinking was I would use 100% of a burst bag in each quadrant area. This worked great for me so you might want to consider doing something similar. I used the foam rollers that came with the kit and had no trouble with them. In fact, I used the same roller for all 4 burst bags with no issues until literally the last 3 square feet where it started to come apart but it finished like a champ. That roller gave its all for me. I had gone out and purchased a 3 pack of top quality purdy 3/8 inch nap rollers just in case the foam rollers were really the disaster everyone claimed but I never used the nap rollers but I will for future painting projects. In my case the temperature was about 55 degrees so that may be why the epoxy never even came close to getting tacky. I used a 2 ½ inch brush to cut in the edges. I basically followed the Video instructions, kneaded the burst bags for a good 3 minutes, cut the pouch corner and poured directly from the pouch in 2 or 3 inch ribbons. The rollers basically pushed around a “puddle” of Epoxy. It filled in 95% of the imperfections as I went and used up the entire pouch in that 103 square foot section. As I was rolling my goal was to do more pushing and pulling of the puddle than “painting” and there was no roller noise one gets when painting say a wall where you hear the paint “ripping” off the roller. It was mostly silent so keep that in mind. I was not sure how heavy a flake I wanted but I did read this stuff is not designed for a full flake or even a heavy flake but I was clueless how much I would actually need and the last thing I wanted was to run out of flakes and have 80% flaked one way and the remaining looking like I ran low etc... So I purchased 2 more pounds of the Black and White flakes, took all 4 bags of flakes from both kits and emptied the blue and grey chips from the kits and my black and white extra chips and mixed them all together in a 12 x 12 box. So my flake is a custom blend of the kit flakes with the black and whites mixed and its awesome. I think each blue flake bag in the kit was ½ pound so I had a total of about 4 pounds of flakes total to use. I ended up with about 3/4 pound extra at the end and I got the exact flake density and colors I wanted as I went.For me, since the air temperature was on the lower range for the application it worked out pretty good. I got a nice slow cure. For a hot minute I actually got a bit nervous it was not going to cure correctly. I finished at 6 PM and checked it after 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours and even at 6 hours it was still like I just rolled it out so I was having a heart attack something went wrong. I went to bed and the low temperature that night was 49 degrees and got up and checked it at 8:00 AM (14 hours post completion) and it was still slightly tacky but firming nicely. Certainly, no way was I going to walk on it per Rust-Oleum’s claims of walking on it in 10 hours… No way for me. It warmed up to the mid 70’s during the day and by about 11AM it seemed much firmer but I could still take my fingernail and push into it and it was soft yet. By 4 PM it seemed set up pretty good. I made the mistake of walking on it with my socks and I noticed that the moisture from my feet was actually leaving like ghost prints on the shine and I have about 3 foot prints where the gloss is slightly marred with the outline of my foot and toes. Fortunately, I detected this right away and let it cure overnight again in the warmer temps before messing with it any further. Next day it was truly “Rock Solid” this stuff is tuff as nails hard and you cannot even scratch it but don’t under estimate cure time in cooler conditions or you will damage all your hard work. I think it turned out awesome and I enclosed a couple pictures. The wife and I had two other couples over last night for dinner and everyone was in awe of my project. I can truly say this is one of the most satisfying projects I have done in a long time.

I have a 2 Car Garage that is 20X20. Purchased the Tan 2.5 car kit and the Clear Top Coat kit. I had no issue with covering my 2 car garage with this amount of product. I am very happy with the finished project. But requires pre-planning and time to do it right.Advise:Labor: use 2 people to apply the paint and chips and the clear coat. You have about 45 minutes of pot life to get the paint down then it will start getting hard and difficult to apply. 2 people working together will reduce the (Monkey on your back) stress out of the application. On the paint one person painted and one person did the chips. On the Clear Coat we put the clear coat in a paint tray, put in middle of us and used 2 brushes to apply the product. We split the garage and each took half and worked back to front on the garage.Rollers: I did not use the cheap foam rollers that are provided in the kit. Like other reviews they do not last. I learned this 20 years ago on the original job. I purchased 6 Purdy 3/8 nap rollers and used 4 of them to apply both the Poly and the Clear Coat with it. Do not go cheap on your rollers…. On the Tan paint I used one roller per bag of paint. Also buy some small 3 inch disposable brushes to use to cut in the edges. Then throw them away at the end of the job. Also buy some Nitrile disposable gloves to use during the application.Chips: I did not use the provided chips as there is only enough for a light dusting of chips. I would recommend buying flakes online by the pound for the project. I purchased pre-mixed “Dark Earth Tone” chips and did a Medium to Heavy flake. Sure I had flakes left over but was not worried about being short on chips.Prep: The prep is the key to this project and takes time! I had put the RockSolid Epoxy Garage covering on the garage floor 20 years ago. I wanted to remove that covering before this project. I rented a floor polisher from Home Depot and a Diamabrush Coating removal tool. (Polisher was $46 for 24 hours and $75 for Diamabrush removal tool) Note: There are 2 Diamabrush available. One for prep and one for removal and prep. I spent 10 hours grinding the floor to get original paint off of it.I then used a 4 ½ inch double row diamond cup grinding wheel (Amazon $17) with angle grinder for edges and low spots. NOTE: this product WILL NOT fill in cracks!! If you don’t want cracks to show then you have to spend the time to fix them before applying the product. I had a number of small cracks and also wanted to fill in the expansion joints. I simply purchased Premixed Concrete Patch from Home Depot. Fill crack with putty knife, roughly smooth it out, let dry and then grind with angle grinder smooth. I even filled in the expansion joints this way. Last step was to pressure wash out the garage before painting. (PS. I painted the garage before the applying the garage floor paint)Application: The trick to this project is putting the right amount of paint down for coverage. You have to put down a small ribbon of paint on the floor. I put the ribbon of paint down in a straight line. When you start rolling first pull the paint towards you then start your rolling. I had a small amount of paint left over and on the Top Coat we ran out exactly at the end of the application. I did not use the Anti-skid in the Top Coat. So I cannot offer any advice on that. We started the job early in the morning. My garage faces East so the sun was going to be an issue so I had to drape a tarp over the front of the garage to keep the sun off. We put the paint down in the morning and we finished at 9:00. We then applied the top coat on the floor that afternoon around 6:30.Remember to do something to the garage door (lock it and put painter’s blue tape across the door) to keep anyone from walking out the garage door while the paint is curing. Also remember to put something on the garage door track to keep it elevated off the floor while it is curing. I pulled the emergency release on my garage door before we started the job and put a clamp on the track so I could pull the door down manually and have it rest on the clamp.Is the paint coverage perfect? No. If you look you can see some light color changes in the paint. But it is a garage after all and I am happy with the result. If you want a consistent coverage with no color changes then I would recommend putting down 2 coats of the paint. Paint one coverage with no chips then paint again with chips. But that will obviously increase your project cost.Added some pictures, hope this review helps.