622224444 Polycrylic Protective Wood Finish, Clear Matte, 1 Quart

Easy to use and apply, easy cleanup the finish looks great, virtually no odor , much better price tan than big box store.

This is great clear coat for what I do. I make signs with acrylic craft paint. When done I need to clear coat. Almost every other brand of clear coat I've tried tints the white paint and even lifts it up. Not Minwax Polycrylic. This is a great matte clear coat that goes on easy and dries fast and hard. And minimal brush marks. Excellent clear cost. Will be buying more.

I purchased this to seal a custom reptile background that I built. I was worried because it is a small can. But let me tell you, a little goes a long way. It brushes on looking like glue, but dries clear. I've used it on a 36x18x18 and 8x2x4 enclosure. And still have lots for my next project.

The best water based varnish out there to me! Doesn't yellow. Easy clean up. Nice finish. I take a little paint and add it to the varnish to make antiquing applications.

I started doing our cabinets the hard way. Sand back, primer, paint, poly. Problem is that it's the dead of winter and I have to balance between getting the paint overspray out of my garage and keeping it warm. The problem I ran into was that if the paint booth wasn't VERY warm (like seriously, under 65 degrees is a no-go) then this stuff spider cracks like mad. Fixing the cracks is a pain, and consists of dabbing 2-3 thick coats of poly with a fine detail brush into the cracks, drying it quickly with a heat gun on low, sanding it back, and then spraying another coat of poly and RAPIDLY blasting it with the heat gun on low. If you get spider cracks, do exactly what I described above. DO NOT try sanding the cracks back first, they crack all the way down to the paint/surface, so you'll wind up burning through the paint and having to strip and re-do the whole surface. Add poly to fill the cracks and sand it back from there. Use a heat gun on low. But good lord was that becoming a headache. So out of frustration, I tried doing one door by mixing the water based latex paint and the poly 1:1, then thinned it down to about 25 seconds with my paint cup (I was using a 1.5mm nozzle, you could thin it less with a 2mm nozzle.) Literally solved every one of my problems. The final color and sheen is IDENTICAL to the pieces with primer-paint-poly as separate layers. After letting it cure properly (the can lies, you need to cure this stuff, even used as directed, for at LEAST 24-48 hours before it's fully hardened and can offer any protection. Before that, you can mark it with a fingernail. After that, it's rock hard.) it feels just as rock hard, with none of that gummy character that latex paint never loses. And the best part is that the latex paint keeps the whole thing flexible as it dries, so my paint booth can have a cold side, a warm side, and the paint/poly no longer care! no more spider cracks! Once I figured out this stuff's quirks (it's very thin but doesn't spray well from a 1.5mm nozzle without further thinning for some reason) it's fabulous. Great matte look that makes painted surfaces absolutely pop (it's not flat. it's matte. "Matte" is about 15-30% satin. There's an ultra-flat poly if you want FLAT) and it will protect high-wear items like cabinet doors from scrubbing and knocks.

The polycrylic spread very well, didn't leave any brushmarks or leave any imperfections. I didn't need to sand in between coats either. The only problem is the product isn't truly matte; it does leave a sheen. Otherwise I'd say it's a flawless product.

I have used the Minwax product line for many years. I used the high gloss oil base on my floors and produced excellent results. All of the contractors who came to my home would ask me who did my floors. I didn’t want to tell them I had. If anything was wrong I wanted them to feel they could tell me without offending me. To my relief, they said the floors were stunning! Even the realtor remarked about how beautiful they were! Finishing was a long tedious process: lightly sanding, scrupulously cleaning all traces of debris with tack cloths and rags and carefully applying the poly with a lambswool applicator. Today I have mostly laminate floors that are a dull satin finish. The previous owners were not fastidious people, so there were a few areas where there was evidence of delamination. In order to prevent the problem from getting worse, I decided to coat the floors with Minwax water based poly. I used the matte finish. I coat 3X, and leave 24 hours between each coat to dry. In this particular application, the matte finish looks best since it blends beautifully with the existing finish. I would caution anyone who uses this on their floors: place felt pads on your chairs and no spiked heels. If there is any damage, touch-up is a breeze.

Great product, so simple to use and sand down in-between coats