Replacement Ignition Coil Connectors

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined and find that your wiring harness issue is on the connector side due to turbo heat, these are your best bet. Upon ripping apart my coil wiring I found this to be the case and found these as a great solution as opposed to doing a whole wiring harness swap. Came out clean and got rid of my misfires instantly!!! Took me about an hour for install. Some of the crimps that came with the kit wouldn't seal all the way so I improvised and just used high quality electric tape.

These connector fitted perfectly for my application was really packaged well

Connectors are of good quality. Before doing this repair, you will need some smaller butt connectors. (18-22 Ga weatherproof). The butt connectors supplied are (12-16 Ga) . Two of the four wires that run to the original connector are a 20ga......and the other two are 14ga. So, save yourself some time and get some smaller connectors before beginning the job. Also, save the weather proof boot off of the original connectors. They will slide right off and slide on to the new connectors. After all connections have been done, use a flexible wiring conduit to insulate the 16 wires that are flopping around. Dont just tape it all up. Also, when you do this repair, replace all of the spark plugs and ignition coils too.If you were experiencing misfires you probably have one or two damaged coils.The bad connectors can damage the coils.

I used these for audi tailights and they worked perfectly. These were a good value for the money and worked better than others I have bought in the past!. If you need pre-wired connectors, these are the way to go.

The composition of the plastic was definitely not made to withstand engine heat. The connector turns to pliable putty after being exposed to engine heat for 30 minutes. The connecting mechanism fails once heat is introduced.The butt connectors are the wrong size for the wire, not to mention the wiring insulation is also not suitable for engine heat.Another waste from Amazon.

These work just fine. You have to make sure you have enough room because the connectors take up a lot of room. Also you will need a smaller gauge in most cases for one or some of the wires. A heat gun is suggested if you want to weather proof the wires. Also get some heat resistant tape. Also disconnect the battery or you may short out the fuse when you cut the wires.

These parts arrived quickly and are as described. However they would not work for me. They come with factory installed terminals and leads plus crimp on connectors for a simple wire for wire replacement. But I wanted to reuse my existing OEM terminals and planned to pop them out of the old broken connectors and replace the replacement wires that came with the new connectors. I was unable to do this as the new terminals do not fit inside the OEM connector molding. The manufacturer is using slightly smaller terminals that use a smaller opening in their molded connector enclosure. Therefore the OEM terminals won't fit inside the new molded part.I didn't use the new connectors for the following reasons:One, the crimp on connectors supplied are bulky and would be very difficult to fit inside the wiring harness cover.Two, I always prefer to leave the OEM wiring unchanged where possible to eliminate introducing new issues from dry joints etc.Three. I thought about soldering the new wires to the old harness using shrink tubing instead of the factory supplied crimp connectors but see 'Two' above.I believe these new ignition coil connectors are well made and suitable for the application if one does not want to keep the installation as close to OEM as possible. They are excellent value as you cane pay twice as much for one single OEM connector if you can find them. I recommend these connectors for people that do not care about keeping their OEM terminals.

I have not had the time to replace the bad one yet. Based on fit there shouldn’t be a problem repairing my bad one.