ATLIN Honing Guide - Sharpening Jig for Chisels 1/8” to 1-7/8”, Planer Blades 1-3/8” to 3-1/8”

Me gusto mucho la calidad de la herramienta. Buenos acabados.

Keeps the angel right once set

This requires a LARGE sharpening stone so be aware. The unit seems to work well enough, however I do find that the clamping action really needs to be tightened down HARD to keep the blades from coming out or shifting. I have added a little bit of rubber tubing to grip better where the blades sit (why it's not five star). Other than that it's easy to use and works as intended. Accuracy depends on your ability to visually align the blade with a flat surface while in the clamp. Can clamp blades of varying thicknesses and sizes. Just be aware of its shortcomings and you can easily use.

Held the plane iron tight and accurate without modification. If yours isn’t there are instructions on how to modify to fix it.

Okay, first off I was worried from some negative reviews, but went ahead with this anyway. After using it, I realized there is a big factor in success: reading the simple single sheet of instructions. It clearly says how a mortise chisel (the type with the straight sides - sheesh there is even a diagram example) is secured at a different place on the jig. My Marples and my Stanley chisels are all mortise chisels, and I imagine this is the most common type used (as the directions even say, it is probably a mortise chisel if you don't know). Following the simple instructions, I was able to secure 2 different types of Stanley plane irons and 4 different chisels (size 1/2 to 1"). I had previously sharpened my plane irons free hand on my diamond plates and thought I did okay. When I used the jig - wow did I notice what a horrible job I did freehand! I am surprised anyone would recommend doing this freehand. When you think about it, it is like saying you can do a better job using a table saw without a fence or sled. Here you are doing hundreds or thousands of cuts and want consistency to have a uniform angle and edge. The human body flexes - even if you have locked your wrists the best you can. Power to those superhumans that can achieve a fine edge doing this freehand, but for me and I imagine most people out there, it was much easier to put the blades in a jig. It is a very simple device. You lock in the blade in the appropriate slot, extending it to the length you want for the desired angle (suggestion: use a quality ruler with millimeters if you want to be precise. Make a quick cheap wooden jig for depth of future sharpening or other tools). For my chisels, I found the angle while I had it in the jig and then secured it rather than using the length to determine angle. After that it was just a matter of sharpening away. I didn't have to worry that it would be consistent - just held the pressure at the tip of the blade and made sure I wasn't lifting off the back wheel and went to it. From the brand new Marples chisel I was setting up to the antique Stanley #5 plane iron (circa 1941) this did a brilliant job on diamond plates and wetstones. I followed methodology from some woodworking channels and was able to achieve a mirror edge and cut paper with all blades. I did stropping freehand because I figured I could do little damage to the angle I had created with stones, so I can't say how it works for that but I imagine the same principal - maybe the wheel would sink in the leather a bit. As far as any naysayers about the build quality, I didn't notice any issues. Maybe there was some slight cast slag here and there but nothing that made me think low quality. For less than $20 it did the job and I imagine it will be solid for many sharpening sessions.