DERNORD 12V 150W Immersion Heater Submersible Water Heater Element Stainless Steel Heating Element with 1 Inch NPSM Flange

I used this for my son's science experiment which required heating a tank of water and regulating the temperature to a specific value. This worked great, no leaks thanks to the silicone gasket, and was a safe, low-voltage component. we coupled it with our own homemade temperature controller and it worked great! Would purchase again for any similar needs in the future. The heater is made from high quality materials, stainless steel and has the heating element brazed to the terminals for what looks like a long-life component that should last many years. Note: This heater comes with NO NUT, so you need to purchase one separately if not threading into an existing housing with threads or a nut already in place. We used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3TVD81/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheap Quick Way To Supplement hot Water. just install this element in either the top or lower port to supplement the temp I just used A HF. 4 panel kit about 100 watts. And set up the contact bars to run in series. (Solar Panel current is closer to 24 vdc and travels better A long distance from the source than 12 to minimize loss. ) when you set it up keep in mind you still want to leave the second 220 V element attached as the back up if you don't have enough solar to keep up. we don't use A lot of hot water so I initially installed the low voltage element in the lower port through the existing thermostat and set it at 150 deg. F and Set the top 220 V 2500 watt element at 220 deg. I set it up like this to test everything .the 40 gal. tank held enough hot water to run the dish washer and 2 showers. until finally cooling to lukewarm. so i went to check on the heater and realized i had forgot to turn the grid power breaker back on. I would suggest if you do this at first use a 3500 watt 240 v element in the bottom port set at 140 deg. and use the low voltage element in the top port. and install a mixing valve this maximizes capacity uses less than half of grid power and greatly extends hot water capacity.

it works very well and waiting to see how it works in its full application...

Use this to heat water in pump up 2 gallon sprayer. Used for shower when camping. Wired one end of jumper cables onto heating element left clamps on other end to connect to lithium battery.

It worked ok, for the low wattage that it is. I ended up going with a higher wattage unit. But, if you have amp draw considerations, this may work for you. Its internal resistance is close to 1 ohm, so it will draw about as much current, and the voltage applied to it. Which means, that if you have a 15amp fused cigarette lighter plug, you should be able to use this. But, a 10amp fused plug will likely blow. Yes, I was using it for a non-standard project. By the way, you cannot bend this much at all, without it breaking. So, if you are thinking bending it to make it conform to a smaller space, think again...

I put this on my 6 gallon sailboat hot water heater. I put it on a 4 hour timer. After 4 hours, the water was very warm, and completely acceptable to us. We just don't want to run a generator and we are tired of cold showers. So for 36 to 48 amp hours of power, you can have a warm/hot shower. We don't have a solar controller that can dump excess power to a device, but if you do, this is perfect. We, just set our timer to start at noon (after the solar has fully charged our batteries).

I used this element to make a 5 gallon hot water heater that I connect to a 12v deep cycle battery. It works great.

It appears these are no tested before shipping so the customer does the quality assurance and then asks for help if it doesn't work. Furthermore, the card included with the item asks the customer to email them using a Chinese email address instead of having a proper vendor contact through Amazon. I am sending this back because it didn't work even once. Connected to a 12 VDC source (actually a bit higher to allow for load across the terminals it reads 5.86 volts and the heating element doesn't even get warm. The source (3 solar panels with a no load of 20 VDC at about 18 amps) should be more than sufficient to at least make the heating element warm. It remains cold. I then connected the heater element to a known good battery with that is fully charged (140 amp/hr) and the same result. The battery voltage at rest is 12.8 volts (AGM) and when connected the voltage immediate drops to 5+ VDC across the heater terminals. Since there is no indication of + or - heater terminals it should not matter how they are connected. Nevertheless, changing them had no effect. The heater simply doesn't work. This is a waste of time and companies that shunt their quality testing to the customers need to wake up. Heater is going back and I'll just buy something better.