Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Gold

Excellent binding posts. I ordered a terminal cup but when it arrived it was disappointed in how craptacular it was. One spring did not work at all, and the other stuck halfway open. Junk. While I was waiting for the terminal cup to arrive I did more research into making my first sub box. These make much more sense to me. Why use a 2" hole saw on a sealed box, only to replace the wood with thin plastic with terminals that will leak? After learning about the method of simply using ring connectors, bolts and nuts along with some sealant the 2" hole and terminal cup started to look pretty poorly though out. I was about to decide to use this method when I stumbled on a link to this product through another vendor. I read up on these and found out that they met my needs and looked very nice, like what you would expect from a pro box builder or shop. I ordered a set. I received them. They are very well made and please me greatly. I cannot wait to get them installed in my new box. Thanks to Daytoon for the great and well made product!

Solid and easy to hook up to …perfect for a heavier setup or a diy …will never use the thin plastic terms again ,makes no sense they are thin and no where near as durable as the rest of the box .why not make the whole thing solid as a rock ,I’ve learned that much .

Great item

I recently acquired a set of compact Boston Acoustics VR-M50 speakers, missing a link strap and two of the speaker post bolts. Not all speakers use a “standard” type - I have three different bolt types in my modest speaker collection, and my hardware store had nothing that fit. But I took a chance on this set, and they fit perfectly, and visually are almost a perfect match.The rest of the assembly I haven’t used, but it’s definitely of high quality. It looks like gold-plated brass. For those speaker DIYers who don’t want to compromise the integrity of their cabinets with cutouts for a plastic terminal cup, this is a good alternative. Dayton Audio makes good stuff from my experience.Note(s): I bought an “open box” package from an Amazon seller, saving myself a few bucks. As to the VR-M50, it’s an impressive little speaker.

I don't like terminal cups because they compromise the structural integrity of the box. However with this method you end up with terminals that are not flush with the box wall. In my opinion, especially with car stereos, it's important to be able to save space, and having a terminal post sticking out 3/4" anywhere is not ideal. I thought I had out smarted the two downfalls.My plan was to fortify the box wall in a small area on the INSIDE of the box so that it was 1.5" thick instead of .75. I did this by cutting a 2 by 2.5 inch piece of mdf and holding it in place inside the box while drilling from the outside. Wood glue and the terminal nuts do the rest. I drilled through both layers of MDF with 1/4 inch drill bit and then widened the hole on the outside wall to a 1/2 inch hole about .65 inches deep so that the whole post could be recessed into the speaker box flush. I'm using banana plug connectors so I don't need access to the knuckle nut terminal part. I did manage to make a happy ending, but I ran into some problems.With my install I had 3 problems.1. You need 3 drill bits. 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 9/16 inch. I only had the first 2.2. Glue seeped into the inside of the terminal causing me hours of clean up.3. The knuckle nut tighteners got scuffed up tapping the terminals in place with a hammer.The first problem was that 1/2 inch will only recess to the knuckle nut. You need a 9/16 inch bit preferably to widen it a 3rd time for the last 1/4 inch of recess. I didn't happen to have one handy and I actually liked the look of it with the terminals sticking out only a 1/4 inch. I'm using 90 degree banana plugs so the clearance was good enough for my purposes. I think I might like it better with the initial plan, but I wanted to finish the project that night and no stores were open. . You can make it flush with this product, but you need to double up the wall where the terminals go through, and you need a 1/4, 1/2, and 9/16 inch drill bit. You also need to be careful how deep you go with each.The second problem was unexpected. I don't know about you, but It seems intuitive to me to want to try to use some product to seal the hole during install. I used wood glue. Now if you drilled perfectly you might be able to get a seal without product, but I wouldn't risk it. So I lathered my posts in wood glue before I installed them in the hole. I thought everything was fine until i realized that the glue was pushed into the banana plug terminals filling them up! Basically some pressure was created upon insertion and the glue slipped into the inside of the terminal between the bottom of the knuckle nut and the terminal post. It took me an hour to get it out using toothpicks, paper towels and needles! So when I went to install the second terminal I made sure to tighten down the knuckle nut supper tight to try to prevent this. It didn't work. There needs to be an o ring between the knuckle nut and the rest of the post to seal it when the nut is locked down. Keeping in mind, this only happens when you are trying to recess the hole post, and when using wood glue. If you are fine with terminals sticking out 3/4 inch then this doesn't apply to you.Problem 3 happened because the knuckle nut tighteners are plastic with gold paint. The rest of the terminal is solid material but you do have to tap them into place with a hammer because of the furrowed part of the shaft. The plastic knuckle nut was slightly ruffed up and I had some paint chipping from the process. I avoided this on terminal 2, 3, and 4 by using a paper towel between the post and the hammer while tapping them into position, or you could use a rubber mallet.To be fair, I'm doing a custom install probably not considered by the engineers of this product. Most people probably don't recess the post past the screw down speaker wire hole. I'm using banana plugs so I don't care about that part.I wasn't able to find anything that included the banana connector part and not the knuckle connector. Even though this product is not perfect for the job and the way I did it, I was able to get a clean install eventually. If you like the way I installed them, I recommend some o rings or perhaps just put some silicon on the bottom of the knuckle nut before you screw it down and then let it dry over night before you install the whole post with wood glue. I plan to buy two more for my other sub and I'll let you know how it works the second go around.

Used these for a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure I made. Worked great.

Used these for a couple of little projects . Quality and price A+

I used these to build a dummy load tester for testing amplifiers. They have a tab on them for soldering. Work well.