Universal Oil Catch Can Tank Polish Baffled Reservoir Aluminum Car Truck Engine 300ml Silver

I've tested a variety of oil catch cans, and this one is surprisingly good for the money. It's well designed and fabricated. Many automotive cans (even expensive ones) do not employ proper separation techniques and allow much of the oil vapor to pass right through. This can works very well, combining three methods of oil/fuel/water separation. First, is a compartment that serves as a centrifuge. Incoming air enters tangentially to a small circular chamber, where vapors are forced to swirl against the walls of the chamber. Oil, fuel and water particulates, being heavier than air, fly into the walls, sticking, coagulating and condensing. Vapors are then drawn through the baffle chamber, which serves to trap and condense more oil. Liquids then drip into the can below. Lastly, the can itself forms a large chamber where vapor velocity slows down, allowing further gravitational separation. HOWEVER, it's not perfect, and a few easy mods can make it far more effective at oil separation...Firstly, the can should be mounted on the cool side of the engine, near the front of the car, if possible, to promote proper condensation of the hot vapors.Secondly, the baffle compartment can be greatly enhanced by stuffing Scotch-Brite stainless steel scrubber material into it. The baffle unscrews into two halves. Compress as much stainless material as you can comfortably fit into the baffle enclosure and screw it back together. This forces the vapors through an extremely convoluted path with countless condensing and coagulating surfaces. Do NOT add stainless material to the first circular chamber, which is designed for centrifugal separation.Thirdly, add a tubular extension to the baffle compartment. Without it, vapors that exit the baffle chamber are sucked directly to the outlet, less than a 1/4 inch away. Any oil that is trapped and condensed in the baffle is supposed to drip to the bottom of the can, but vapor speeding over the rounded edges of the baffle will drag oil with it, and I can see a trail of oil making its way from the baffle to the outlet. Not good. So, I used plumber's thread-tape to seal the threads of the baffle chamber (which do leak oil), and I cut a two-inch long tube out of a compressed-air spray can and rolled it tightly over a 3/8" diameter dowel rod. This forms a springy tube that can be expanded over the baffle chamber, wrapping it tightly and remaining in place. That entire tube can be filled with stainless scrubber material to maximize condensation. With this modification, the vapor is forced further down into the can, passing through far more condensing material, then flowing over a sharp edge and returning vertically at least 2 inches to the outlet. Gravity makes it impossible for oil to find its way back to the outlet. Obviously, the modified can must be emptied more frequently to prevent the oil level from blocking the tube.Lastly, the hose that comes in the kit cannot handle heat and vacuum without collapsing, so buy some cheap 3/8" fuel hose for about $2 per foot. It works well for pressure and vacuum in a turbo system.To monitor its efficiency, I mounted several oil/water separators in series with this can, and very little oil vapor gets through when the above mods are employed. I'm using two of these cans in a BMW N54 turbo engine; one for the boost side (using the biggest in/out fittings) and one for the vacuum side (using the 3/8" fittings). In this particular engine, the vacuum side requires an RB Turbo External PCV mod. At LAST, I have an oil-free intake system and no smoking!

Seems to be made well except hose. Throw it away and go buy 50psi fuel line, it's affordable. Installed today. Will update when I check can at 1st oil change

The can waork great. Baffle systems is basic but works just fine no mods needed. Especially good for the breather side of the pcv system where lack of restriction is important. The hose and clamps are trash. Throw them away and get some good hose. No way the hose can stand vacuum let alone boost. Clamps brake before they are tight enough to hold under boost. Not sure why they supply orings for the fitting when they just smash and squish out when the fitting its tight but thats what thread tape is for. Again the can itself is worth the money.

It does what it's supposed to! Works well on my wrx. Only bad thing is the hose that comes with it sucks. Other than that great product

This type of the oil can so far is the by far the best of all or one of the BEST if not. The structure and the integrity of this can is very well made and sturdy. Of course, you can’t just install the way it is. You have to add stainless steel(scrubber) into the black filer holder like the pictures I have shown. In order to extract the maximum oil vapor from the engine, I cut a smaller size of the (scrubber) before the filter holder along with a larger size inside of the holder then a whole scrubber into the can. Therefore, a total triple layer of the filter system made a 99% of the oil and water vapor have been collected. I then installed another identical one which I called it (double oil/water trappers) at further away from engine bay to cooler area. That gives 100% oil/water trap! This is Not a very necessary step for you guys but I’m an Chrysler Engine Tech and I know one oil can isn’t good enough.

I ordered two of these and one was machined quite well and the other has obvious machining defects in the the threads of the dipstick and can bottom. If you get one with decent threads and machine work you're getting a great catch can design at a fraction of the cost of what "name brands" offer.

great product=, easy to install amazing results!

Ive not yet installed this but its a great quality item the tubing is very thin walled and flimsy

I using, and working perfectly

Received the item but cheap quality and coming without any mounting kits. Hard to find a good mounting bracket to mount this product onto the car and need to custom make one.