SIGNI Abrasive Nylon Drawing Wheel Drum Burnishing Polishing Brush for Wooden Furniture Floor Polishing 120X100mm 80 Grit 1pack

I chose to buy this and use it with a burnishing tool that I purchased here as well and it has proven to be very valuable in my endeavors. This item has expedited the process of removing the char on my wood pieces exponentially. A word of caution though, as with any project proper PPE is important, when removing char you should wear eye protection obviously but most important is a respirator because this will kick up dust with quickness and leave you a darker shade than when you started for sure. I will be ordering these in different grits to help with different degrees of char removal. All in all, this performs as intended and I don't have bristles flying everywhere.

I bought this for removing excess charcoal and smoothing boards using the shou sugi ban method. I do use a wire brush (from harbor freight) on a broom handle to remove the majority of the burnt wood. Any other spindle I looked at had bad reviews, so I made my own and it's EASY !! and waaaay cheaper. I used a 12" pc of 1/2" all-thread rod (from any home improvement or hardware store), some leftover bearings (you can get them on Amazon--just search for 1/2" bearing), a few nuts and washers, and some scrap PVC pipe. The 1/2" all-thread may seem overkill, but the nuts fit the brush with only a minor modification, and I'd rather have it overbuilt versus it breaking. I slid the bearings on and held them in place with a nut on each side. I cut the PVC pipe long enough to cover the bearings, then cut it lengthwise into 4 sections, and placed it on the bearings using double sided tape to hold it temporarily, and then duck taped it securely. Next, from the long threaded end, thread on a nut, then a washer--this will be where the end of the brush will sit. The 2 nuts that prevents the brush from spinning must be filed or ground down....if you set the nut on a flat surface, the points at 3 and 9 o'clock will need to be reduced (about 1/8" from each side) so they will slide into the brush's core....a slightly firm fit is better, so don't get crazy when filing or grinding them....place them on the rod when checking the fit. Positioning the 2 nuts-- set them far enough apart so they are inside the brush by about 1/4" on each side. When you put the 2 nuts on, they must be oriented/clocked the same....just set the whole device on a flat surface and tack weld or add red loc-tite and let cure for 24 hrs.By now, you'll have a handle with nut, washer, followed by the 2 nuts that are permanently secured (see pic). Now, slide the brush on and use a washer, lock washer, and a nut to hold the brush in place. I left about 1.5" of excess sticking out for the drill to attach to. I use a cordless drill on the lo/slow setting and it works perfectly. Slow enough, so you don't over work an area, but with plenty of torque. The 120 grit leaves a very smooth finish--this was my biggest concern. It should last a lifetime....and then some.Shopping list:2--1/2" ID sealed bearings1--12" length of 1/2" all-thread rod8--1/2" nuts2--1/2" washers1--1/2" lock washerScrap PVC pipeDuck tapered loc-tite (if not welding)

Very handy tool, it is better than using a hand held wire brush

aggressive enough for surface rust, does not remove metal or scale rust. holds up well

A question was asked if this would fit a porter cable restorer and the answer was yes. This does not fit the porter cable restorer. In the description of this tool, the word "wire" was mention leading one to think this has metal wires on it like the Porter Cable one but it does not. Looks to be some type of plastic. Was not able to use this but appears to be well made.

This is probably frowned upon by the manufacturer, but I bought it hoping it would fit the Craftsman Restorer tool and it doesn't. However, it works great on a drill. It's a well made product and priced right. Wish they made one for the restorer.

I expected it to eat up as much wood as a 60 grit sand paper or flap disc would, but this brush seems to only be as effective as a 120 or higher grit. Maybe it needs to be spun up faster than the 3K rpm max that my machine puts out?

I'm using this particular drum to sand down a guitar. It saves a lot of time sanding. It's pretty gentile - doesn't burn or take hunks out of the corners, edges or high spots. I have to use a workmate to hold the guitar by the neck.