Linemaster 632-S Clipper Foot Switch, Electrical, Single Pedal, Momentary, Single Stage, No Guard, Black

I am very impressed by the build quality of the switch and I love it's heft & weight. The anti-skid pad on the bottom of the pedal works like a champ on my smooth, garage floor. I definitely recommend this switch.Quick Rant...I will never understand, why it is so challenging for companies to include the proper wiring installation instructions for products!!! With that said, I hope the following information will help anyone who has already bought or considering buying, this fantastic foot switch.Please note: As a reminder, the design of this foot switch is to close the electrical circuit when the foot switch is stepped on, thus giving power from the wall outlet to the power tool.Important: If you are reading this and you are going to follow these steps, please do so at your own risk. You are an adult and should be responsible for your own actions and you should also have the intelligence, without needing a warning label to tell you, that taking a hair dryer that is plugged into a wall outlet, into the shower with you, will result in electrocution and possible death. Play with electricity at your own risk and health.Steps for Wiring:1) No wire is included with this switch. You will need to purchase a power cord and hard wire it in. I personally chose a 15ft (16ga) black extension cord from Home Depot.2) You will need to cut the wire. Being that my wire was 15ft in length, I opted to cut the wire so that I had 12 feet of length that would plug into a wall outlet and the remaining 3 feet of wire was used as the receptacle pig tail in which my tool would plug into. You can vary the lengths based on your needs.3) From the cut end of each of the two sections of wire, strip off approximately 4 inches of the outer protective jacket. DO NOT strip the actual "wire" jackets from the green, black or white wires. Be careful not to cut into or tear into the green, black or white wire jackets while removing the outer jacket of the extension cord.4) With 4 inches of each of the green, black and white wires now visible on both sections of the extension cable, strip off approximately a 1/2" of the protective cover from each of the wires, exposing the copper core. This is what will be used to wire into the screw terminals of the foot pedal.5) If you have not already done so, remove the bottom cover plate from the foot switch. In addition, loosen the two screws that will be used to clamp down on the wires coming into the back of the foot switch.6) Insert both sections of the extension cord through the back of the foot switch. Keep track of which cord is meant to be plugged into the wall outlet and which cord is the receptacle end in which the tool you wish to power, will be plugged into.7) Twist the copper ends of both green wires together, and screw into place under the green terminal screw of the foot switch.8) Twist the copper ends of both white wires together and utilize an electrical wire nut or a crimp style electrical wire nut to permanently join the two wires together. Ensure that none of the copper wire is left exposed or allowed to come into contact with any object within the foot switch housing.9) Now for the part where Linemaster could have done a better job in their sub par wiring diagram. You will see three (3) electrical terminal screws on the actual switching unit. They will be labeled as "C" (Common), "NO" (Normally Open), "NC" (Normally Closed).If you want the foot switch to operate in a manner in which power is only delivered to the tool when you step down on the pedal, you will want to wire to the "NO" (Normally Open) terminal. (The switch will operate just like a light switch)If you wire to the "NC" (normally closed) terminal, then power will be delivered continuously until you step on the pedal which will break the electrical circuit and power will cease to be delivered to the tool. This is not typical and will be utilized in rare circumstances.10) Take the black wire with the exposed copper from the section of wire that is to be wired into the wall outlet and connect it to the "C" (Common) screw terminal of the switch.11) Take the remaining black wire with exposed copper and connect this wire to the "NO" (normally open) screw terminal of the switch. This should be the wire that is feeding to the receptacle section of the extension cord in which the tool will plug into.12) Ensure that there are no exposed wires touching any other parts of the foot switch. Push the two sections of the extension cord into the back of the switch as far as possible so that you can now, tighten down the two screws that will clamp against the two cords to hold them securely in place.13) Replace the bottom cover of the foot switch. Plug the extension cord into an wall outlet then plug a tool into the receptacle section of the extension cord that is coming from the switch. Step on the pedal! You should now have controllable power to your tool.Cheers,Joseph

This is a great foot switch. I have two of them. They are very solid and well built. I use one in the garage and I think the pressure to operate the switch (measured 5 lb) is just right when standing. I use the other for a foot operated push to talk switch for amateur radio. I did find 5 pounds to be more than I liked for use while seated without shoes. There are two springs in this switch. One directly under the pedal (see picture), the other inside the switch box. If you are comfortable with modifying things, removing the spring under the pedal (and leaving the internal spring) made this a perfect push to talk switch (1.0 lb force). The weight and rough bottom keep it in place. Instructions are not needed for anyone with basic electrical skills (knows what C, NO and NC stands for).

I'm using this for foot pedal control of an Amateur Radio transmitter. This is solid, heavy (built into an iron casting) and doesn't shift about the floor. Unlike cheaper sheet-metal switches there is no tendency to bind with any side-load or off center pressure. Excellent cable clamp. You do need to attach your own cable - I used a tough shielded guitar-cord with one end cut off. This same unit is sold by a well known ham radio equipment dealer with an inexpensive cable attached for twice the price. I honestly believe this is the finest product out there for my purpose, at least.

After many years of using the conventional switch on my table saw I took a chance with the foot pedal and I must say it works like a charm. This switch is built to last. It's heavy and works great. You have to get used to it being on the floor and it goes on with a very light touch, but it certainly is a lot safer than having to reach down to reach for the conventional switch. One complaint is the lack of good wiring instructions. I contacted customer support and they emailed me the wiring instructions within two day. Wiring is fairly simple and does not require any soldering. I wired it extra long, so when I cut sheet goods I can pull the switch away from the saw so I can reach it easily when I get ready to start the cut. Very convenient.

I use this switch for PTT for radio equipment. Most other switches targeting the ham radio world are cheap plastic construction or use poor quality internal components (springs, contacts, etc.). This switch is solid and won't move around on the floor. Yes. Its bulkier than those "pretty" switches sold by your favorite microphone company and you do have to wire it yourself (easy). But if you want the best quality, performance and something that will last forever (rare these days), then get this switch. I almost never review, but was so impressed by the value received with this product.

I am a Ham Radio Operator an many of us use a foot switch for PTT (Push To Talk). This is one "Heavy Duty" switch, built like a tank! However, it requires more effort than I am use to so I had to take it apart an cut some of the return spring off. This made it much better. One thing for sure, I will never wear this one out!

Took awhile to figure out the insides of this since I have never installed one before. Once i got the connections figured out, i couldn't ne any more happier with my purchase. I used this as an activation switch for a set of train horns installed in my truck. unit tucks away nicely by my left foot so its easy to press when someone cuts me off. very rugged product should outlast the horns.

A very well built switch that seems to have improved over the years. These are a solid cast iron and simple solid design.The one that this is replacing is about 30 years old and still worked, but there was an alignment problem with the pivot. The replacement was well aligned.Works great, looks great. Made in USA sealed the deal.