Pacific Radiator Plus LED Panel

Two things to know about aluminum water blocks and radiators:1. Aluminum does not transfer heat as well as copper and therefore does not produce “cooler” results for your hardware. This is fundamental to the metal and cannot be changed. However, given the proper setup and environment radiators such as the RL360 will perform very well and keep your components cool. It might take more of it to produce the same results as an all copper loop but the various components that make up a custom loop can get pretty expensive pretty quick and going all aluminum does make it easier on the wallet, especially for first timers or folks who just wall a quieter build.2. No metals should ever be mixed together whatsoever, although there is a way around this at least for those who don’t mind doing maintenance ever 3 months. You have nickel, brass, copper, and aluminum parts to work with with aluminum being the cheapest and the least affective at transferring heat. Mixing any one of these with another metal will produce galvanic corrosion and destroy your loop as the metals begin to break down. Mixing aluminum with any other metal will annihilate the other metal because of aluminums electrical properties. So when shopping for parts; fittings, blocks, radiators, valves, flow indicators, pumps, plugs, splices, etc be sure to plan ahead and use the same material for each. With those things in mind, I can say that the RL360 is an excellent radiator for the price. Keep in mind it is not your standard 30mm thick radiator and even overcomes some of the thick 60mm competitors with its 64mm thickness. The more surface area the radiator has the better cooling capacity it has and the 64mm rads accomplish this well. The draw back to using thicker radiators like this is going with making room in the computer case while ensuring clearance of other components and airflow. Airflow is a must for any radiator but if you want to take advantage of having a thick radiator you will need some good hardy airflow to push and/or pull the air through the fins of the rad. If you don’t then the heat generated by the blocks and transferred in the water into the rads will just “rest” in the radiator and never get discharged into the atmosphere therefore making your temps not at all what they could be. This does not mean you have to have your fans on full blast to make the rads work well but you do need to plan out the flow of air in your build and make some good fan curves so the fans know when to ramp up and when to remain silent. Of course if you don’t care much about sound then hit turbo and listen to these things roar as the air passes through the fins. Another thing to note, this will increase the temps tires in your room depending on what you are cooling and how much heat your computer is producing. My room is normally around 72 degrees F and after about 15 minutes of doing anything intensive the tempatures can hit 76. Just saying. Obviously there are lots of factors to this and your mileage may vary but just so you know. It transfers heat, that’s what it does. From inside your box to outside your box, e.g. the room. I’m cooling an i7-4930K cpu and an Nvidia Titan X Pascal. Both are overclocked, the cpu stock frequency is 3.4Ghz base and 3.9Ghz boost and is overclocked to 4.6Ghz stable. The Titan X has a +240 on the core and +300 on the memory which produces 2166Mhz frequency before it hits the power limit and then it drops to 2101. The normal GPU boost clock frequency for this gpu is about 1840. I have two radiators in my system, the RL360 and the RL240. The 240 is mounted at the front of the case in a push/pull config and the 360 is at the top in push/pull as well. All radiator fans are EK Vardar 1850s. I have 6 additional fans in the case to provide airflow through the case or exhaust the warm air from the front radiator and surrounding components. And no the tempatures won’t change much if it were moved to the bottom for various reasons. So the tempatures for the cpu are 25c at idle and about 52c at full load with Prime 95 after about 30 minutes. The gpu on the other hand idles at 24c and lands between 43 and 47c depending on what I’m doing. Synthetic benchmarks like 3DMark Firestrike or Time Spy can produce temps between 50 and 52c on stress tests. I run most all my games at 4K resolution and max out the settings as long as I can hit 60fps or at least come within 2-3 frames of 60fps. If not, then I’ll drop the resolution to 2K which subsequently reduces the tempatures by some 6-10 degrees C and of course increases the FPS. Overall I’m very pleased with the performance of the radiators and I hope to soon swap out the 240 for a 480 and then I would put the 480 on the top and the 360 on the bottom of my case. One other thing to note about these radiators is that they take a loooooooong time to bleed. After I finished my build I tipped and tilted my computer to get the air bubbles to move towards the reservoir and then let the pump run for some 24 hours and there was still small air pockets in the loop. Be patient, and over time they will work themselves out. The mounting holes on the radiator are not the correct size starting out but after using the correct size screw it’s possible to work the holes to the correct size without stripping the threads and actually correct the pitch distance of the threads in the rad. This was why I knocked a star off. Not a big deal, but seeing that most all other manufacturers of these type of products use the same screw diameter and pitch distance you would assume Thermaltake would use a “standard” size screw,but I digress. It’s a good product. Don’t listen to the stuck up haters of aluminum. Yes they are right that copper does have better cooling performance, and yes IF YOU MIX DIFFERENT METALS OF ANY TYPE you will get corrosion issues. Do it right and you won’t. Just a little added info, most all of the all-in-one closed loops on the market have copper blocks and aluminum radiators. There are few exceptions. How do they get away with this? Because the liquid used has various chemical agents to help reduce the affects of corrosion in the loop for the “life” of the product, meaning 2-5 years. Just saying. Aluminum is good if you want to get your feet wet (no pun intended) with making custom loops and it still produces decent results. It’s cheaper and therefore easier to replace if needs be. The prices are not always that different but still cheaper. Also know that these radiators work just fine with EKs Fluid Gaming line up. Again, I think they are great for beginners or someone who just wants to build a quiet system for as little money as possible.

Product appears to be made pretty well. Manuals for install are HORRIBLE though! I didn't see the issues with painting that others have reported, but I did have to wash out the radiator about 7 times before nothing else came out of it. I HIGHLY recommend you wash until you don't see anything else coming out of it. I used nearly a gallon of distilled water and about 25% of a small bottle of distilled vinegar before it succumbed. Polished it off with a couple of distilled water only washes. Just a side note, the CL360 version is about 2" thick, so keep that in mind if trying to stick near the motherboard at the top of the case. Thankfully, I have a P8 case, so I'll be able to put the radiator on what would normally be the outside of the case, with the fans underneath on the inside. I guess that's a little weird, but it's the only way I'm going to get the 3" clearance I need when the fans get attached to the radiator without cramping the CPU.

I swapped out my 240mm slim rad for this monster cl360 and couldn't fit it within my current case so I jury rigged the beast to a 1 by 10 and now I can play my games on my Samsung Odyssey cause it dropped my temps by 20c and I also have a Corsair 360 X5 rad handling my CPU. This rad is for my 6900xt the heaty boy. Please keep in mind the plastic plugs this comes with are not meant to be water tight but are there to keep dust and debris out use the metal plugs for keeping fluid in.

The length of the rad itself is 285.4mm according to the specs on the box. For me, that was a few millimeters too long to properly mount in my case (SFF/MFF). The cavity on the end extends farther than other brands. Had to send it back because of this. That said, it felt very high quality and did not seem to exhibit the paint chipping issues that I've seen other reviews complain about, so four stars for that.

Love Thermaltake products with the best quality for the money, the Thermaltake Pacific DIY 64mm Thick Copper Radiator comes with everything that you will need to install your own rad to your liquid cooling loop, with this radiator installed during installation I did notice that I needed to preinstall and pre thread all the screws this took some force, I don't know if this is was just my experience to need to do this, as this will just take more time for installation, other than this the installation went well, the antimicrobial plug or drain port I did notice does not line up setting face down, with the writing on the rad and is then face up overall this is a matter of preference and doesn't affect the system I just wanted the writing to face up and the port to face down, the 64mm rad fits well inside the case with a push pull configuration, and cooling is significantly well done with less noise, overall best quality for the money, (don't know why people think it's ok but plastic plugs are not meant to be part of installation they are part of the packaging, and don't seal so don't use them, the system won't leak if your careful)

I bought 4 units of these thinking of putting a radiator for every 2 cards, so I did it, in one of my computers where I have 2 x RTX 3090 & 2 x RTX 3080 and it works spectacularly.In another PC that I have with the same number of cards 2 x RTX 3090 & 2 x RTX 3080, just install one to see what happened, and it maintained temperatures of 56º C maximum in a zone of very high temperatures caused by other servers around it, temperature average 50º C at 100% mining use and everything works without fail to this day, highly recommended, today I installed the second one to lower temperatures and everything goes well at 40º and stable.

This thing is a beast so be sure you have the real estate because with a dual fan push/pull configuration, she THIIIIIICC. Couldnt be more happy with performance either as im sitting sub-ambient at idle and only barely over ambient temperature with 100% synthetic load (wPrime) on the CPU. If you have the room for this beautiful monstrosity, its essentially the core the of the last cooling solution you'll ever need.

This rad in combo with 3 artic p12 fans and bykski pump keep my radeon 5700XT cool at around 80 degrees (C) max at the junction (radeon thing), 55 max where most take their measurements even running at 99% utilization for extended periods of time.Size makes it difficult to install but that’s to be expected with this size of radiator.

I Run an all copper loop, this rad is copper aswell.The good,Great performance, this cools an 8700k overclocked to 5.2ghz, max temps 65~70C in peak moments, drops to 40C or under regular use. idles around 30C.Doesn't restrict flow fate.Thick, at 64mm thick this rad is only for cases that can manage it.The BadIt's so think im surprised its not multiport, 4 on top and 1 drain on bottom. (my Phobya rad is multiport, 8 on top with a drain on the bottom)Painted a little too well. the first 3/4 inch of fins is painted black, i'de rather see the copper, and have only the very edge painted.Needs a serious clean new, make extra sure to flush it well before adding it to your loop, mine had a bunch of particles in it.fin density is pretty high, Make sure to get high static pressure fans for it.conclusion:Great performer, would be nice if it had a few more ports for routing options. Overall this is a good rad for my setup.

I purchased three Thermaltake Pacific CL420 64mm thick copper radiators January 15th, 2020. The serial numbers on the radiator boxes were CL-W193-CU00BL-ALS000266, CL-W193-CU00BL-ALS000267 and CL-W193-CU00BL-ALS000276. They were manufactured within 10 radiators of each other.Heavy soldering was completely blocking the copper chamber ends on approximately 1/3 (16 out of 48) of all chamber ends seen from inside the brass end tanks looking through the G1/4 ports. This solder prevented liquid from flowing through the copper chambers (the channels that allow liquid to flow from one side of the radiator the the other). The center row of chambers seemed to be the chambers that were most likely to be completely blocked, where as, the chamber rows above and below were more likely to be either partially blocked or unrestricted.Additionally, one of three radiator's paint flaked off in big chunks from the edge corners of the brass end tanks simply handling it. If I had to guess, the copper and stainless steel surfaces were not prepared properly prior to paint application during manufacturing.I have used Alphacool, XPSC, and EK radiators in the past and did not have either of these issues.You MUST inspect the chamber ends within the brass end tanks for solder blocking them. If you don't, you run the risk of unknown decreased thermal cooling performance, and decreased flow rate causing unnecessary motor stain on your pump.

Pour:Excellent raport qualité prix. Il y a un bon jeux entee les filets et le rad donc le risque de viser dans le radiator es exclus. J ai une perte de 3 degré sur l eau vs mon radiateur chinois d entré game.Contre: seulement 16 vis , donc prévoyez 16 vis pour installer un système push pull (vis m3)