







🚪 Slide into style with the U-MAX Barn Door Kit — where function meets sleek form!
The U-MAX 10FT Heavy Duty Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit features premium carbon steel construction with a stainless steel finish, designed to fit 60" wide doors. Its J-shape hangers provide ultra-smooth, quiet sliding, while the all-inclusive package ensures easy DIY installation. Perfect for millennials seeking a stylish, durable, and hassle-free home upgrade that blends rustic and modern aesthetics.
| Brand | U-MAX |
| Color | J-Shape |
| Material | Alloy Steel |
| Item Weight | 23 Pounds |
| Assembly Required | Yes |
| Manufacturer | U-MAX |
| Part Number | N-SLD-U1J |
| Item Weight | 23 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 118 x 1.57 x 0.24 inches |
| Item model number | N-SLD-U1J |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Size | 10 Feet |
| Finish | Stainless Steel |
| Shape | J-Shape |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Included Components | hardware kit |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
L**N
Good quality, sturdy and so far works great
Right out of the box we could tell this was a high quality kit. Very heavy, nice texture and seemed well made. We were a hair concerned after reading reviews about the two halves of the rail creating a little "bump" where they come together, but this one was actually pretty flush, so we were happy about that. At first glance the instructions seemed confusing and not very descriptive, but once we got going it wasn't too bad. Our door is 4x8 and very heavy maple plywood with MDF strips on the front. This seems to be holding it up no problem, it slides nice (one wheel is a little noisy, but not bad considering the weight of the door), and it looks great. It comes with adjustable stoppers you slide on the ends of the rail to control how far the door goes in both directions. These are not strong enough to stay in place if you push the door hard, but as long as you open close gently, no problem. If you have kids, it could pose a problem potentially, but our kids are grown so can't say for sure. I'd say it took us 2-3 hours in total to get the door hung. The hardest part was getting all the holes perfectly level, so the door wouldn't slide one way or the other. Luckily we put a header above our opening when we built so finding studs wasn't an issue. Overall we are really happy with the purchase and it was far less expensive than the big box home stores. I would recommend. (P.S. there are some small rubber stoppers that we did not use and actually have no idea why they are included. They are supposed to prevent rubbing, but that was not an issue with our install and we followed instructions pretty closely).
S**E
Better than I expected
The plan was to use this indoors but that project kept being pushed back until the shed needed a door to go with the facelift. Turned out nice. I added a couple extra attaching bolts for the rail because finding all the studs wasn't ,, done. With old growth hardwood under the siding. It's pretty secure. Easy to open and close the heavy door. I'm glad I bought it.
C**D
4th One
Well made, great price. Over the past several years, we have purchased 4....Definitely recommend
P**J
Looks great
Looks great. Used for hardware for diy barn door enclosure
R**N
Look nice
Great price
T**R
Door stop should be designed better
The media could not be loaded. I installed two barn doors over existing bathroom doorways because the doors were in the way of somewhat small bathrooms. Used doors picked up from Restore to keep costs way down. The 1 3/8 inch thick door mounts 3/4 inch away and clears door trim...almost. The inside bolt heads run into the trim a bit when trying to close the door all the way. I used a small router to remove a small amount of wood where the bolts hit to allow the door to close further. Where to mark for rail bolts? I found 16 inch on center studs where the door's open side would be, and measuring over to the top door trim and keeping the 16" on center markings over onto the trim. The goal is to go just high enough on the trim to catch the horizontal 2x4 behind the trim with a lag bolt. After confirming that I would hit the 2x4 by drilling a small hole in the trim, I then drilled a large enough hole to fit the small side of to rail support pin. You can go larger if you believe there will be enough support. I knew I would have to take off the trim, so I routed out the back of the large holes in the trim (for the pin flang) and added some extra wood behind the trim to support the two pins. Put the pins through the large holes from the back side, and nailed the top door trim back in place. This was the hardestvpart of the project. The last rail pin had no stud behind it, so I carefully cut a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 hole in the drywall, and stuck a 1x2x9 boark into the wall and secured with a couple of drywall screws. Then put the small piece of drywall back in the hole, when gave me support for the last pin. The door stop design was disappointing, because the rail bolt can get right in the way of where you want the door stop to be, so you have to go too far with the stop, or have it stop too soon, and it then makes your door opening smaller.
D**K
As good as expensive counterparts
Well built, easy installation, hardware is sturdy, as good as the more expensive ones at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
W**D
Good price point
I gave this 4 stars because similar kits from the big box store costs about 2-3x as much. If money is no object for you I would not recommend this system. However, if you are trying to save a couple bucks these are sturdy enough and easy enough to install to make them a good buy. If the manufacturer would make a few small changes this product would be even better. The main issue with this system is that it is designed to be installed directly to the drywall. If you are the 1 person out of a hundred where the pre-drilled holes in the rail align perfectly with the studs in your wall than you will love this setup. If you are like the other 99 percent...like me....the holes in the rail will not line up with the wall studs. This leaves you two options. A) you drill additional holes in the rail to match up with your wall studs or B) attach a 1x4 to your wall as a ledger board and attach the rail to your ledger board. I chose option B. This worked fine but I'm not crazy with how far the door sticks out past the door casing...about an inch. If you attach directly to the wall as designed, the door would just clear the door casing by about 1/4 inch but when attached to the 1x4 this pushes the door out an additional 3/4 inch (a 1x is 3/4" thick). My suggestion to the manufacturers would be to take the wall spacers that go between the rail and the wall and basically cut them in half. Provide instructions that if attaching directly to the wall slide both halves of the spacer together (which pushes the rail out far enough to clear door casing by 1/4"). If you are attaching to a ledger board you would only use one of the spacers that were cut in half, the 3/4" ledger would make up for the 1/2 spacer you didn't use.Because I didn't like the 1" gap I used a booring bit and drilled a 1/4" bore into my 1x4 where the wall spacers attach. This moved my rail 1/4" closer and still left me with 1/2" of ledger board for support. I then purchased some washers and where the metal hanging straps attached to the door...I doubled up 1/8" thick washers to basically move my door an additional 1/4" closer. Between these two steps I was able to close the 1" gap to about 1/2" gap.My other complaint...i test fit the rail to get the height correct. By the time I installed, removed and reinstalled...the lag bolts were pretty chewed up and didn't look as nice. Not the highest quality but for the price....also, the instructions say to attached the strap 4" in from the end of the door. Because of my door style I attached 3" in instead of 4" with no problems. I think the 4" is an arbitrary number and doesn't really matter. Finally...the instructions look as if you measure down 1.5 inches and 3.5 inches from the top of your door and drill door holes for the door straps. Luckily I double checked before drilling because the top hole is down 1.5 inches from the top of door and the lower hole is down 3.5 inches from that hole...not from the top of the door (so basically measure down 1.5" and 5" and these are where your holes go.All in all, I'm happy with how these turned out
K**N
Worth The Price ♥️
I am very happy with the quality, the packaging is very professional, and safe. its heavy duty materials, the manual instractions are very straight forward, super recommendable product. Money is worth every cents. Thank you so much for your effort teams. I really appreciate it. ♥️♥️♥️
S**R
Look and work great
These work great. Slide nice and smooth. Hardware is great quality. It does keep the second door out a bit far, but we just added and extra piece of wood to the sides of the door and made it look as if the door was that thick.
C**N
Great value product
Very happy with the quality of this kit. Easy to install and instructions were not as difficult as some others have mentioned. Good to have drill with ratchet set handy for drilling in bolts.Only small negative is that I wish the middle piece where the two join could have been better quality. Alot of weight on one small bolt to hold it all together.Didn't install floor guide since I didn't want to crack the floor tile but would have worked fine.Matches handle ordered perfectly.Overall a very good product. Better than anything in big box stores.
S**S
Looks great
Nothing a1
A**R
Great for the price
The sliding track works great. I cannot compare it to the more expensive ones, but for the price I can't complain and it is probably very similar.A little bit of paint chipped off at one spot, but it would be easily fixable with some spray paint. The sliding track comes in two pieces, but it does not really affect how it works/slides. The manual is a bit hard to understand, but if you're just a little handy and can measure stuff it will be quite easy.
Trustpilot
3 days ago
2 weeks ago