Recoil DI1200-4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 2,400 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, MOSFET Power Supply, Bridgeable

I have to agree with other reviewers. This little amp is outstanding value. I am using it bridged into 2 channels to power some midbass drivers in my car. It sounds great and delivers more power than I thought possible in a package this small.

The media could not be loaded. I'm extremely impressed with this amp. Sound quality to me is top notch. I've tested 3 different amps on my test rig. The Recoil is by far the most power per dollar and best sounding of the 3. Building a custom boom box for my mom and I'm pretty sure this beast will be the audio power source. My ONLY complaint is the amp does run fairly warm, but that is easily fixed with a computer / boat fan. I tried the 400 watt model of the popular cheap amps from Brazil. Way too much background hiss compared. I still can't believe it's smaller than my hand, yet puts out the power. Installation is a breeze of you know what you're doing. This amp does make enough power for smaller subs if you want to use it for that. It made rated plus at every ohm load according to the amp dyno. Has no issues moving the 10 in this setup.

This amplifier is great. It's small and very powerful. I can't believe the quality against the price. It's well worth what I paid. Nowadays you gotta be careful they might say it's a 5000 watt amplifier but it's really on about 90 watts per channel. This one gives details on the internet about it's capability and it's not perfect but it is very close. I really do like this amplifier.

I installed this amp, 4-5 days worked, then it started smoking, there was a clunk clunk deep sound not from volume control as it kicked on. Burnt electrical smell and smoke from underneath amp. Never got hot the few days I had it installed, I didn't push it hard. Yet after not right after I tried it again it works with the clunking sound but got hot. Onboard fuses didn't pop either.I only bridged 3&4 channels sub infinity 10" is 350 rms 4 ohm rated to take 800 watts. Plan was to hook up sub and add my mids and highs in other 2 channels later as budget permitted. And later upgrade box and subs the plan was to grow into the amp. Not a fan of the spade terminals (4 gauge)Now using old fosgate punch 500.1 (250rms @ 4 ohm from the late 90's), doesn't have the quite the power but clean little amp it's ugly and had some moisture from something but still slams.I really liked the compact size and heavy little sucker stayed cool, not a fan of the clamp style spade terminals. I'd say get the fancier 4 gauge screw-in spade terminals (screw wire into the spade not sure if you can use a ferrul) for power and ground. Plan your wiring and amp rack really well.Unsure of longevity, perhaps the 800x4 would have been better but for $10 more get the 1200.4 right?Perhaps I had too small of load and amp was beast mode and something had to give inside?

I have this amp powering a pair of Deaf Bonce Sylvesters and a pair of Infinity 6.5 coaxial. As some of you know, the Sylvesters are a power hungry mid range. With the specs call for those speakers around 200RMS. This Recoil is giving them sufficient wattage with out struggle. I have this amp installed in my 10th gen Accord. Its wired off a Audio Control LC7i that is tapped from the factory head unit alongside a Audiopipe monoblock for my SunDown Audio e10.On average I listen at vol level 4 or 5. Anything 7 or above and things get real loud quick. 10 or above and screws start coming loose. I have yet to play my system above 15 (maybe someday). There is a small amount of noise when there is no audio playing but thats about it. I've yet to push this amp to its full potential yet. I believe this can handle way more than I've thrown at it. I dont think you'll find a better value as far as watts/dollars go.

Compact size, full size power. Pushing 2 - 6.5 and 2 - 6x9, no problem... I would buy for my deaf mom. :)

The media could not be loaded. Powerhouse for sure but that’s all it is! Was hoping for a compact high horsepower beast but you can’t have it all for hundred bucks! Way too much line noise just idling while the amp is powered on with no music playing and there was no shortage of alternator whine…..pass on this ampEdit: February 2024. This amp rocks! Get it while you can before the prices Sky rocket.Please disregard my initial review,I hope you can forgive me recoil as I’m the idiot not y’all 😅. I kept hearing good things about the recoil di800.4 & di1200.4 but I was disappointed in my first attempt of hooking this amplifier up. So I revisited the subject and purchased the 800.4 this time and had much better results! And heres why, so when I made my first review on the 1200.4 model which i highly regret returning, two things were wrong at the time, one my rca wires had been installed backwards meaning they are directional rca cables and I had the source side plugged into the amps when it should have been connected at the headunit. The second mistake made during my initial testing with these recoil amps was the type of connection being used! This is the most important step not to be overlooked guys!!! Even though I had hooked up my directional rca cables backwards that still wasn’t the cause of all the noise, it had little effect and improved slightly in noise once I had the RCA’s going in the correct direction. The rca interconnects I was using at the time that were giving me trouble was the Stinger 8000 series rca cables. The stinger rca is the wrong type of cables to be using with this type of amplifier because the stinger is a twisted pair style connection which is good when paired up with say a JL audio amplifier that has “balanced rca inputs”, however, this recoil amp requires a single ended type of rca connection or coaxial type cables which is more commonly used in stupid recording settings! Get yourself a nice guitar microphone cables and watch how silent the input noise will be and you will have an epiphany like I did lol. I hope this helps a lot of guys experiencing whine engine noise! Oddly enough I thought there was no way in heck my rca could have been the problem from the getgo but it turns out I was indeed wrong and I spent nearly $80 on those stinger interconnects last year thinking I’ll buy the expensive stuff once and never have to look back, and oh was I wrong. You can get a better understanding and explanation of this concept by Tony damore on YouTube, search for something like rca balanced inputs and you can find a few videos explaining and teach you how you check your equipment and what cable type is needed based on the amp you have on the bench good luck