Vetark Fluke Solve Aquarium, 10 g

I agree with reviews that the packing is a tad awkward to get to the product. Fix the ladle to the end of a spoon handle with tape, problem solved. Make stock solution of 250ml tank water with one full ladle of powder which is one gram of product. Add 1ml of stock per liter of tank water volume (including water volume in a canister filter). Remove all chemical filtration media from filter and any soft porous rocks which can also absorb meds, with only sponges and floss remaining. No need to turn off UV lights. Within 4 days existing flukes should be dead. It's recommended to1. Keep the chemical in the tank for three weeks, 2. Keep level of product the same by replacing product in all water used for water changes. 3. In three weeks time redose. 4. Maintain product in water at same concentration for a further three weeks. ...This is to kill off any eggs in the tank. Unless there is a need for a further dose then return the chemical filtration products to the filter. That's it. I've just started the process and will update. This is after over two months using other products that have not worked to cure flicking. Goldfish diseases are very hard to diagnose. Colder temperature water makes for longer parasite life cycles. I've introduced a heater and am now keeping them at 25 C. These are fancy goldfish with no sign of what's been causing the problem. This product is my last option. This powder-based freshly made solution ensures the product is potent and not possibly degraded by a long shelf life in a shop or damaged by temperatures or conditions in export journeys etc that could affect pre-bottled solutions. UPDATE day 11 and they have stopped flicking, but one fish is hiding all the time and not eating. Total life cycle of egg laying flukes is much shortened by keeping the goldfish at a higher temperature using a heater. The egg maturation cycle can be reduced to as little as four days after the parasites on the fish are killed ...which is usually within 48 hrs once the praziquantel is fully dissolved and activated -- that activation of this product takes two days, then this product is at optimum potency, within the next 2 days adult parasites will be gone. I found that it was not necessary to maintain the product in the water for the recommended total of six weeks. After the flicking stopped one fish was very poorly and did not eat and stayed in hiding. After 12days with the product still in the water I returned chemical filter media, did a 50 % water change and used a tonic salt at the minimum dosage of one gram per litre of tank water. After three days his behaviour then returned to normal. Still no flicking, and he's swimming and eating normally. This stuff definitely works if other treatments fail. But keep a close eye on the fish. If they seem off-colour but not flicking then after about two weeks do what I did, but be aware that without a heater the egg laying stage may be quite long and the parasite may reinfect. So after a break in treatment a redose might be needed. FINAL UPDATE. NOW THREE WEEKS AFTER FIRST DOSE. FLICKING STOPPED SOON AFTER PRODUCT FIRST INTRODUCED. Apparently it can take 5 to 8 weeks for fish to fully recover from fluke attack. The fish in hiding and not eating has fully recovered after using aquarium tonic salt at a minimum dosage, after putting the salt in it is now out of hiding and eating normally. I recommend this product. I did not need to redose after 3 weeks, perhaps because I used a heater to shorten the life cycle of the egg to adult fluke stage. if you have a pond probably a redose would be needed.

Noticed a few of my leopard (false julii) corydoras flashing recently when feeding off the substrate. When one seemed to actively rub itself on some driftwood I realised it was probably flukes.When it came to measuring the medicine, I tried to weigh the spoon when level but the scales didn’t register so presume it’s around 1g. Going with this (and I rubber banded a chopstick to the spoon as per other reviews so I didn’t have to put my hand in the bag), I mixed one 2.5ml spoon of the medicine with 250ml of tank water then dosed my tank 100ml of the mixture - as it’s 100 litres - and threw the rest of the mixture down the outside drain. Poured the mixture into the tank which did cloud the water a bit. All fish seem fine with it and within the hour no corydoras are flashing at all - all fish feeding and doing great. Oh I also remembered to remove the carbon insert from my filter too. I keep neon tetras, celestial danios, gouramis and corydoras. Feeling thankful! Also relieved I seemed to do my basic bit of diagnosing correctly for the right medicine. Fully recommend. Will update this record if anything changes regarding my tank inhabitants well-being.

I've bought female dwarf gouramis from Pets at Home and I've noticed white stringy poop. Immediately I've ordered this product, it arrived quite late due to amazon logistics issue but once it arrived I was able to treat the fish. It worked almost immediately.- For 20litre of water / 5Gallons I have used:1) 0.065grams of powder and mixed that into the water.2) I have wiped my jewelry scale using flake food basically infusing the flakes with praziquantel and fed that directly to the fish (they ate it ASAP, huge appetite the gourami have!)About 2 hours later the poop was still stringy but with a bit of red, I have assumed that was intestinal bleeding from the worms being detached from the intestines but I didn't want to risk it so I got Levimasole (bird dewormer) to treat for Callamanus worm just to be on the safe side.4 days later they were moved back into the main tank with normal poop. (the normal poop starts showing about 3-4days later).(I have removed all filters but kept the water pump to keep the water moving as praziquantel doesn't dissolve in water perfectly and the particles in the water need to move around so it doesn't fall to the bottom.)Pro tip: NO SUBSTRATE IN THE QUARANTINE TANK, it makes it harder to clean the poop as the poop contains temporarily paralized worms and eggs, if you do not remove them from the tank the fish might nib the poop and inhale the worms back in, thus restarting the vicious circle.

A few of my had started flashing against plants, substrate etc. Water parameters were all good and fish were eating and behaving normally apart from the flashing. Guessed it was gill flukes and bought this. Added 1 dose to the aquarium and 24 hours later the flashing had stopped and hasn't returned a week later. Fish are OK, live plants are OK, cycle is unaffected. Its not the easiest to measure out but anyone with the ability to think should not have a problem. I dosed the tank capacity and did not allow for the displacement from items in the tank.