🚗 Light Up Your Drive with Confidence!
The SEALIGHT 9005/HB3 LED Bulbs offer a powerful 20000 lumens of brightness, a lifespan of 50000 hours, and a quick 10-minute installation, making them the perfect upgrade for enhanced nighttime driving safety and visibility.
M**E
Led headlight bulbs
These LED lights fit perfect in my 2019 Kia Sportage LX. Easy install, and these bulbs are much brighter than the original halogen bulbs by far. I'm very happy with my purchase.
M**L
Great upgrade for the money
You get what you pay for. I buy these because I have them in 4 vehicles and I haven't had one go out yet. No flickering issues, and while they aren't really meant for halogen housings, they do a great job of mimicking the light pattern of a halogen bulb. The light is a very functional white, as opposed to some of the cheaper units on here that look blue or purple. The only units I've seen of higher quality are Lasfit, but those are also priced accordingly. These are a great buy for the money.
J**B
Super bright
These are super bright and such a good investment for your vehicle. I can see so much better at night.
R**Z
Whiter, not brighter, but still high quality.
Pros:+ Instant on+ Easy install (unplug old bulb, plug in new bulb)+ Pure white light (no blue tint) matches my OEM DRL LED strip.+ Unexpectedly good packaging quality with a molded, closed cell foam interior (more on that below)Cons:- Claims ~6000lm, but seems about the same brightness as the stock 9005 hb3 bulbs my vehicle came with (~4000lm). It's a whiter color, but not noticably brighter.- Even though the instructions aren't really all that necessary if you've ever replaced a car bulb before, the instructions had a LOT of grammatical errors due to Chinese > English translation.- The package box shows a fan when there isn't one (I'm assuming they have one box for both products, then just slap on some stickers to match the model you bought.- When installed in an OEM projection housing, the LED shape casts an unlit cone shadow on the bottom of the projected pattern (see pic#2), my OEM halogen bulbs did not have this problem due to their all glass construction. This isn't as noticable on the road, but it does leave a small, unlit strip on the pavement ahead of the vehicle.I'd probably recommend getting the brighter upgraded version of these lights for anyone with the older reflector type housings (the discoball-looking silver kind), since your light lumens will be devided across the width of your light's beam pattern. With a projector housing, your light output will be uniform from edge to edge.The brightness isn't a big concern before me, given the price. I just wanted these for their color to match my DRL LED strips, since my OEM projector housings cover enough area that I didn't need the brighter version.
M**E
Works nicely and better than expected
Fits my 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe GlS and greatly improved ability to see at night. My Santa Fe model is notorious for having very poorly designed headlights that premium standard bulbs still were terrible to the point my wife refused to drive the car at night. These changed that. Easy to install and no flicker or warning lights. I installed these for both low and high beams. For the price, I am extremely happy.
A**N
Worthwhile upgrade.
Lights are very bright compared to factory Honda LED high beams.
M**E
Small hands would help, but with patience you can succeed!
The lights work great and look great once installed. It is not technically hard to replace the factory OEM lights with these LED lights. I wish I had made a video to share on YouTube because there are none in good detail to show or explain the process, but I did not make one. So, I'll try to give an explanation of it... for someone with small hands, this task would be quick and easy for the Nissan Juke, but for someone like myself who wears at least a size X-Large gloves it was not easy to get my hands into the very tight spaces for changing the lights. And, I was only able to get 2 to 3 fingers through the housing holes to reach the lights, but I managed to complete the task. The task is the same for both the dim and the bright lights... You do not have to remove any parts of the front end (bumper, grill, ECT) like you do on some vehicle types and you do not have to remove the headlight housing. As you look under the hood, look down to where you will see the back of the plastic headlight housing. There you will see two large rubber caps which are about 3" diameter each. The dim light will be the rubber cap which is the higher one and directly behind where that dim light is positioned in the headlight housing. The rubber cap for the bright light will be a hair lower and angled towards the engine. Each rubber cap pulls off of the housing easily and will easily push back onto the housing once you are finished. The dim light is easier to reach than the bright light due to the tight space and the angle of the housing hole for the bright light. So, I started with the easy one (dim light) first. Reach inside the headlight housing hole and you will feel the wiring harness for the light. Do NOT pull on the wires! Connected to those wires you will feel the back of the light. Leave the wiring harness connected for now. The wires will pull out with the bulb once you pull it from the housing. Grip the back of the light bulb firmly with your fingers and twist counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn. Do NOT pull or push on the back of the light bulb at an angle! Twist it evenly and you will feel the light loosen from its locked position. Once it is lose, guide it out of its position straight back towards the back of the car. Once it is completely out of it's position, then you can easily pull the light bulb out of the housing with the wires still attached. The wiring harness is short, so you will have to hold it close to the housing hole. Now you will look at the wire connection of the bulb. You will see a small tab which you will press as you easily pull the wire connection from the bulb. If it does not separate easily, then you are not pressing the tab enough to release it from the locking notch on the bulb. Once you have disconnected the old bulb, set the bulb aside and do NOT let the wiring harness fall back into the housing. If the wiring harness falls back into the housing, you may have a heck of a time getting it back out again as it may be hard to reach without the aid of a small claw grabbing tool which I keep in my tool box. Now to connect the LED light, avoid touching the several tiny LEDs. The LED light will connect only one way, so you won't get it wrong. Align the small locking notch on the light wire with the locking tab on the wiring harness and slide them together until the tab clicks as it locks onto the small notch. Before you put the new light into the headlight housing turn on the headlights for only a few seconds to make sure the new LED light is working properly. If working, turn off headlights and insert the new light into the housing the exact opposite of what you did when removing the old light. As you insert the light into the housing also guide wiring harness and light wire into the housing, but be careful not to let the wires get into the hole of the light's position hole. Again, be careful to not touch the small LEDs AND be careful to not scrape the small LEDs against anything as you're inserting the LED light into the housing or into it's position hole. Once you have the light inside the housing and inserting it into it's locking position hole, make sure that you properly lineup the locking notches (notice that one of the 3 notches is smaller than the other 2) of the light with the notch slots of the light position inside the housing. Once you are sure it is lined up properly and is straight, firmly push the light straight into it's position (towards the front of the car) even further as you twist it clockwise to lock the light into it's position. MAKE SURE that you do NOT push the light at an angle as you're trying to lock it in! Once the light is properly secured into it's position try giving it a gentle wiggle and pull to make for sure that it is locked into it's position properly. Now turn the headlights on again for another quick check to make sure the new light is still working. If all is good, make sure all of the wiring is inside the housing as it will just rest there inside the housing. You can now press the rubber cap securely back onto the hole at the back of the housing. This process is the same for dim and bright lights on both left and right sides. If you are replacing both the dim and the bright lights, you will notice they are designed differently, so make sure you're using the correct type when installing the new light. There is no left or right bulb. If you're changing out the bright lights, when you turn on the headlights to test them, make sure your brights are actually turned on to the bright headlights position on the driver's controls. Good luck and remember that when changing the bright light, it will be more difficult than the dim light (mainly when trying lock in the light into it's position), but it can be done. To aid you in this task you might need a small mirror which you can adjust the angle and a flashlight, so that if need be you can shine the light onto the mirror as you look into the housing to see what you're trying to do, but you will not be able to look with the mirror at the same time your hand or fingers is/are reaching into the housing hole.
K**R
Didn't work on 2013 Escape
Ford turns off the head lights if the current draw is too low. Also, I just want to clarify some dumb things people say about led headlights. The lights DO NOT use canbus. Also, measuring light current draw did not start happening when canbus started getting used on cars. It's a dumb term. Also the "decoders" don't decode anything at least not in normal English. They "decode" in the sense that they eliminate the fault code on the dash by adding load resistors to draw more current. This would all be more sensible if the manufacturers would stop advertising "equivalent wattage" and instead give the true power consumption of the bulb. Some bulbs do in fact have built in load resistors but it is nearly impossible to tell which from the misleading descriptions.
D**N
Excelente visibilidad
Muy buenos, un poco caro, pero excede mis expectativas mucho mejor luz y no ciegas a los demás.
B**D
Nice upgrade
These fit Honda civic perfect and they seem easier to install than other brands. Very happy I finally made the jump as now I can see at night.
A**S
Great
Perfect brightness at night !
D**D
Probably need some intricate/custom adjusting.
The media could not be loaded. These were interesting little bulbs.When installing the instructions say to make sure each LED side is facing left/right (3 o clock and 9 o clock) ... but it seemed to be preset to make them face up and down. I didn’t realize that til after the first headlight.. silly me.The instructions and video don’t say how to adjust it to rotate the bulb direction, but a quick google/YouTube showed me there’s a screw under the rubber ring. Easy enough right ?No.When you take the screw out of the hole, you’ll see there’s another hole you can put it in, changing the orientation of the LEDS... right?No.The second screw hole is on the exact opposite side of the bulb. So if your bulb installed face up/down, and you rotate that 180°.... it STILL faces up and down. So I had to drill another screw hole into the plastic of the led bulb at 90°, thus resulting in each LED side to face left/right instead of up and down.Not overly complicated.. on the first bulb.The second? Unfortunately the orientation wasn’t as nice as the first, it didn’t face up/down at all, let alone right or left. I tried drilling a hole at 90° and realized the bulb faced diagonal directions. I ended up drilling closer to a 45° hole (relative to the original holes in the bulb), resulting in a closer to 3 o clock, 9 o clock directional facing. Since the screw kept stripping the bulb hole I had to take a part of my headlight out, and install the bulb from the INSIDE out.. not from the backside in. Kind of annoying.It took a 20-25 minute job (on my ram 1500) into about an hour and a half of trial and error trying to figure out how to adjust the bulb since the original screw holes aren’t in the right spots.Some bulbs are really flexible on the adjustments (no solid holes , they just tighten an Allen hole in place) but this one has permanent holes for the screw and somehow they didn’t remotely allow the bulbs to simply be set in the proper direction.I added some photos and a video to hopefully illustrate what I explained.No clue if these will last but so far they look nice, but I wouldn’t recommend them to anyone thinking it’s a standard push in and twist solution (as it should’ve been). Or if you’re not comfortable picking the bulb housing apart and drilling your own holes carefully etc.I’ll update if the bulbs last, or if they blow up in my face, etc.
H**N
Good
Good
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