FYSETC 3D Printer Parts and Accessories, 120X120 mm/4.7"X4.7" 12V 120W Silicone Heater Hotbed Mat Heated Bed Pad with NTC 100K Thermistor 3M Adhesive Backing for Reprap Davinci Mini V2 3D Printer

I've been upgrading my printer steadily for a year now. First I did all the Hackaday mods: added a genuine E3D V6, internal PSU, leadscrew, the whole lot. But one issue I have had with my printer is how long it takes to heat the bed. I've tried MOSFETs, PID tuning, and bed rewire to name a few fixes I have tried.The MPSM2 heats the hot-end first, then the bed. Unfortunately, this extends the bed heat time. So long sometimes the printer even times out. Even with the upgraded power supply and thicker wires the bed takes about 30 minutes to heat up after the hot end. Considering my Anet A8 can heat a 220x220 in a matter of minutes and hot-end at the same tine, half an hour is unacceptable. Heating the bed on its own took about 16 minutes, which is abysmal. Mind you, this is with the upgraded power supply skipping the barrel jack, so no under powered PSU here.In with this thermal pad. I did no calibrating - just dropped it into the bottom of the pad. Wired it up and let it run.Three. Minutes.Just three minutes while the hot end is heated - so ten times faster than the original bed. What a difference! I do not have a laser to read the temps with, so I cannot say how accurate it is. The printer could read out 60, but as far as I know the printer could output whatever it wants. But my octopi instance reports a good consistency without the need to autotune. Despite not knowing the accuracy of the thermistor, the results are excellent, and the bed is definitely hot so I don't believe my concerns are warranted.Overall, highly recommend this to anyone who does not want to contribute too much entropy to the universe waiting for this machine to heat. Good buy.

I bought this to use in a small volume distiller by sticking to a glass bottle to the rigidity is not worth complaining about as it wasn't intended to stick to a round surfacethe main complaint I have is more of an oversight on my part and it is that finding a simple PID controller that uses NTC 100k instead of NTC 10k is HARDthat means temperature control is hard in systems not made for 100k based systems and that may be why my power output is only about 110w at 12v though it could simply be tolerance as it is hard to get exact power and size of high-power heaters or they might assume 12.25v or my system dropped 0.25-0.5v at the 10a that you would need to reach 120w at 12v so use beefy cables and connectors as my attempt at using 18awg CCA wire on a 10a max switch module caused a nice melted switch stem from the wire+contact heatbe careful guys it also has a high risk of burns especially when not bonded to metal as even boiling water at 100c would have the unit at nearly 150c due to conductivity of the glass bottle I used to boilstill working but I need to control max steam transition speed and for that I need more parts otherwise I keep drenching my project area in jets of boiling hot water, ouch

I'm using this to make my own heated build plate for a special 3d printer build. Thisoad has adhesive so I stuck it to a 1/8" aluminum plate that is 150mm x 150mm and it heats super fast to 70C

My MPSMv2 hotbed finally gave out. This wired directly into the existing board with no issues, using existing wires as pigtails. Heats up a lot faster and maintains a consistent temp. Great quality. Wish I had replaced sooner and hopefully my house does not burn down.

Heat pad works great but last two times it was ordered I received the 200W version instead of the 120W version as selected.