Full description not available
W**Y
Excellent reference for hard to find understructure
I was a little hesitant, after seeing other customer's reviews, but let me say- oh.my.goodness. am I glad I got this book! In fact, I just put in my order for her Vintage Swimwear book because I was so pleased with this one.If you've been into vintage and historical costume for any length of time, you know how difficult it is to find patterns for undergarments. Although tissue patterns were available for the basics, like bras and tap pants, these were very simplistic compared to those that were purchased ready-made. You can find simple, already enlarged, patterns for simple bras and tap pants, slips, etc, but the ones in this book are more than just the average home-made version that were available in this time period. Plus, if you find an original pattern, you know they've been going for crazy amounts of money- like $40+ for a single size bra + panty pattern from the 1930s. That makes this book an excellent value, especially the copy I got that had "imperfections" (which I can't tell, by the way).The girdle patterns, in particular, are something highly sought after by vintage sewists, but these were not made for American markets in terms of tissue patterns. Some European pattern companies offered them in copies to be radial enlarged, but they were really uncommon to find. That the author not only gives patterns from authentic existing garments, but also notes, is really fantastic.For those who are not familiar with vintage lingerie, the bra as we know it is a relatively new innovation- and brassieres of the past were pretty flimsy in comparison. Don't expect the underwire, fancy stitching, and structure you find in modern bras. They just weren't like that back then. But for the real, authentic stuff, this is great.Someone remarked on the pattern drawings in the book. I have to say, these are extremely professionally done. Sure, they may not be computer drawn, but the lines are crisp and clean- and the pattern is very comprehensive for those familiar with other books of this nature, like Arnold, Hunnisett, and Waugh.Yes, they are for the more advanced stitcher, in that you must enlarge them from the book. But this technique can be learned, and when it is, this is an excellent resource and saves a lot of money, rather than having to source and buy individual, pre-enlarged and graded patterns. The time spent is worth it if you want authentic undergarments.I will say, I was expecting most of these to be from the 1950s and earlier, and there are a few later garments thrown in. Doesn't bother me, but if you expect these to be all mid-century and earlier, you should be aware of this.I bought her "Corsets" book at the same time, and it's an excellent companion, if you want Edwardian and earlier understructure. This book focuses more on the 1920s and later.Bravo, Jill Salen! As a fellow pattern maker and devotee of historical garment construction, I know this took an astounding amount of time, research, and development. My hat is tipped to you.
S**E
Excellent resource for fashion historians
Vintage Lingerie is a marvelous piece of work, and a must-have for the 20th century fashion historian. It should sit on your shelf beside its sister, Corsets, and its aunties, Patterns of Fashion and the Cut of Women's Clothes. Note: if these names mean nothing to you, I'm not saying this isn't the book for you, but you may be going in with unreasonable expectations - this is not like Gertie's New Book of Better Sewing, with full-size paper patterns for you to cut out. This is a fashion history text that teaches you about the specific garments patterned within. You certainly can scale up the patterns, grade them to your size, and make them into lingerie for yourself (I'm not sure why some reviewers think it's impossible; the scale the patterns are drawn in is given in the front and at the back of the book), but unless you're familiar with the methods costumers and reenactors of earlier periods use to do this, you're likely to find it very frustrating.The patterns are drawn with an incredible amount of detail: seam allowances are not included, but every piece of binding, line of topstitching, and hook and eye is sketched with a fine pen. Some of the lines are a little wavy, but again - this is a study of the particular undergarments Jill Salen examined, and irregularities reflect the individuality of the actual pieces. Some fashion historians prefer to smooth out the lines into what they were intended to look like, but not doing so is a valid choice as well (Linda Baumgarten, for one, is scrupulous about depicting seamlines accurately). The photographs are very nice, though I would have liked to see interior/exterior or front/back shots.The introductory text does leave something to be desired in that it's rather judgmental about corsetry, much more than I've come to be comfortable with from fashion historians and costumers, as Valerie Steele's fabulous Corset: A Cultural History has poked holes in the traditional narrative of repression - I'd also expect someone who's produced a fantastic book of patterns taken from extant corsets that show proportional bust, waist, and hip measurements not to buy into that narrative. However, the section is very short and unimportant in the scheme of things - I'm here for the patterns.
A**H
Don't listen to the 1 star idiots
I was almost put off by some of the comments and reviews and almost didn't but I just got it in the mail today and looking though it the complaints are ridiculous and I'm glad I ignored them. If you ACTUALLY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING this book is easy to follow.To be clear there is only one maternity pattern.Yes, the patterns are hand drafted what were you expecting? That's how all vintage and historical patterns are drafted in books that I've ever had (dozens). Also, if you have some dot paper that you can buy at any fabric store, it's VERY easy to plot patterns. Come on it's like graphing in elementary school. I believe in you. They are all very nicely drawn and sorry, there aren't any that you just trace and voila a pattern. You actually have to put a bit of effort into it and gosh golly even add your own seam allowance gee willikers!Sewing and pattern drafting aren't the same. I don't care how long you've been buying Vogue patterns at Joann's, this type of book requires a certain amount of skill a design student or professional would have (or the equivalent experience).I love this book and I'm excited to add it to my collection.Any one who puts this book down and says it's bad doesn't know what they are doing and you shouldn't listen to them.The pattens in the book are mostly 20th century the photos are NOT shotty they are just all sizes and she put them on the same dress form.The patterns are based on the original garment and because the sizes are all different make a mock up you might have to grade the pattern to fit you. (if you know how.)
L**O
Excellent
I gave this book to someone for Christmas. They said the photos are beautiful and there are good instructions and patterns
G**L
Increible
Vienen patrones muy completos y una breve explicacion de como y en que momento se usabanMe parece un increible material de investigacion
L**D
Nice book
Very nice bookIt was not for me but for a presentThe person was very happy
N**D
Five Stars
Love it
M**T
Amazing
Being a teacher in Victorian corsetry and costume, this book is great to open my horizons as a seamstress and teacher.
Trustpilot
1 day ago
3 weeks ago