COUTURE TAILORING

Although this book is aimed at making a jacket the information in it relates to many sewing applications. It gives great information on sewing techniques, tailoring techniques and materials used which would also relate to any sewing project. The book talks you through making a jacket from choosing the design and materials and all the way through the construction process. The illustrations are extremely clear and are placed alongside great written instructions and descriptions. I was a bit on the fence about buying another sewing book but I am so glad I purchased this book, it is one I will go back to time and time again, and I have already picked up some tips and tricks and I am only on page 97 of 350! Definitely a worthwhile addition to my library.

chapter 1; preparation, professional equipment (no recommendations on brands or sources) and pressing equipment 8 pps.chapter 2; planning the jacket, styles, fabric & support materials 13 pps.chapter 3; essential skills, hand stitches, seams, darts, hems & pressing 39 pps.chapter 4 design details, button & button hole placement, buttonhole types, thread and fabric buttonholes, double buttonholes, finishing facings, inseam buttonholes, button loops, tailored pockets, flaps, applied & set in pockets, double welt pockets & inseam pockets 59pps.part twochapt. 5; construction sequence, pattern, cutting and marking, matching fabric patterns, inner structure, shaping fabric, building the foundation (layers if interfacing), basting in front canvas, basting for try on, & first fitting 28pps.chapter 6; the jacket front, correcting the pattern, fixing the bridle, pad stitching, taping the fronts, jacket facings and lapels, fitting the facings, & panel front 18pps.chapter 7; jacket backs and lining, back vent, lining, setting an inside pocket, close shoulder seams 18pps.chapter 8; collars, terminology, fixing and making the collar, notch, rolled, shawl, & stand collars 26 pps.chapter 9; sleeves, criteria for well fitted sleeve, terminology, tailored sleeve, hanging the sleeve, shaping the sleeve cap, hems and vents, lining the sleeve, 3 piece sleeve vent, finishing lining at vents, shaping the armscye, setting the sleeve, sleeve heads and boosters, felling the lining, kimono & raglan sleeves 35 pps.chapter 10; finishing, perspiration shields, sewing the label, shoulder pads, top stitching, belts, final press, buttons & links, other fasteners & weights 24 pps.chapter 11; toiles, assembling, fitting, altering, making a paper pattern 17pps.glossary, index & picture credits 10 pps.slightly larger format than previous books leaving room in margins for self notes, couture hints and detailed drawings for reference.cloning couture online has a dandy reference material for making a form while craftsy online has classes on making toiles. have fun

This book is the bible for anyone interested in high-quality women's jacket construction. Shaeffer discusses all aspects and reveals information you won't find anywhere else. For example, she uses various couture jackets to demonstrate the different approaches to interfacing. Or there's a detailed chapter on final pressing. Everything clearly illustrated with diagrams and photographs.It's a book for purists, as it contains no shortcuts or glued interfacing and offers little advice on fit. It focuses solely on the meticulous craftsmanship of a well-fitting garment. And that, however, is executed to perfection.

E' un libro molto dettagliato sulle tecniche di sartoria da utilizzare nella creazione delle giacche. Insegna proprio tutto dalle basi, ad eccezione della modellistica. Dà anche tante idee sui particolari diversi che rendono il modello interessante ed unico; spiega la lavorazione di tutti i tipi di tasche, di spacchi, il davanti e il dietro, i colli, tutto. E' in inglese, tocca andare a cercarsi i termini tecnici. Mi è piaciuto talmente che ho ordinato, della stessa autrice, quello sulle giacche chanel e quello sulle trim fai da te.Aggiungo che oltre ad essere utile è anche un volume particolarmente bello e lussuoso, si prende in mano e dà soddisfazione solo vederlo.Se qualcuno fosse in dubbio se prendere questo o un libro di cucito tradizionale (tipo quello di Burda ad esempio) sono cose diverse. Qui spiegano proprio come fare il capo perfetto, senza nessuna scorciatoia; poi uno sceglie se seguire o no, ma almeno si sa che l'alta moda fa così (e si comincia a comprendere il perchè dei prezzi che a chi non sa cosa c'è dietro possono sembrare assurdi).Insomma, consigliato a chi vuole perfezionarsi nell'arte della giacca.

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