The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York

I enjoyed this book tremendously. It was definitely not a page-turner for me. Rather, I savored it steadily over several weeks. Still, rest assured that this will remain one of my favorite books. By the time I was done with it, I had a huge admiration for both the author and his subjects - both American and French. I attribute this to the skillful writing and crystal-clear honesty of the author. I thought it was wonderful to see discussions end with complete candor when things went "off-record", as well as full disclosure when sensitive topics and "hot" documents were discussed. I admire Burr's journalistic integrity, which is unfortunately an increasingly rare thing these days.Before reading this book, I was, I will admit, a bit of a Francophobe, with no particular desire to ever set foot there again. Not even finished with the book, my wife and I began planning a family trip there. This is purely a product of the author's sensitive but unforced treatment of his French subjects. As noted in other reviews, he takes pains to provide complete yet flowing translations of French dialogue, which actually makes for a wonderful, engaging read. Many authors would toss out the French with an air of linguistic superiority and force the reader to sink or swim. Instead, Burr clearly wants everybody to get on board the train before it leaves, and it works. Whether it was the author or the editor or both, my hat is off to them.The book teaches - almost unbeknownst to the reader - an enormous amount about fragrances. As a scientist, I can assure you that he does a marvelous job with the scientific aspects, and that he made even the "old hat" science interesting to me. The history, economics, marketing, and politics of fragrances - about which I know far less - was even more fascinating, and - I have no doubt - just as accurate. And the really neat thing is that he made it so damn interesting. I could almost feel the starched lab coats and smell the test strips, and I wanted to be there.To my fellow fragranauts (or "fragra-nuts"), I offer this. Before reading this book, I knew next to nothing about the Hermès line of fragrances ("Hermès? The scarf people? You mean, they do fragrances?"). By the time I was done, I was *positive* that I would take a liking to "Terre d'Hermès". Sure enough, when I tested about a dozen newer fragrances in Sephora, I walked out with Terre d'Hermès. If you're a fragrance fetishist like me, this book will talk to you.

First I read "Emperor of Scent", but this is totally different from 'Burr's prior work on the world of fragrance. This one is an easy quick read (I finished it in a single day), but also addictive - you bounce back and forth from Paris and Jean-Claude Ellena's story of Hermes' "Jardin sur le Nil" and New York, where Burr see first-hand how Coty works with Sarah Jessica Parker to create "Lovely". Francophiles will delight in the liberal use of French phrasing and direct quotes (always translated), which gives a wonderful sense of place to the Paris/Grasse side of the story. The New York story is a mini biography of SJP herself - who turns out to be an incredibly likeable and compelling woman with a great sense of self.I was also intrigued at the idea that fragrances were all unisex until the early 20th century - prior to then, men and women wore what they liked, rather than what was 'marketed' to them. And finally, finally! I understand why the majority of American fragrances smell the same to me - because they ARE the same (common ingredients in standard proportions)... and also why French perfumes are so vastly different.... and most interestingly, perhaps, is a wonderful and insightful discussion of "naturals" vs. "synthetics" in fragrance, which has forever altered my perspective on what is a 'quality' ingredient.The only reason I gave the book for stars instead of five is honestly because the very end of the book felt rushed - felt incomplete. Given that it started life as an article in the New Yorker, I'm not surprised... articles and books have different requirements for endings. But I was very sorry to see the creative process that brought Parker's latest fragrance, Covet, to market in 2007 given only a paragraph in the end (though the origins are clearly visible throughout the early creative process and then meetings where IFF is trying to discern Parker's scent preferences. It would have been a nice coda to the original story, or perhaps to weave the Covet story throughout.I bought the book on the strength of Burr's earlier work, and those who used it (as I did) as a virtual shopping list of fragrances to try will find this book an even better resource. And for the record, Jardin sur le Nil is one of my favorite fragrances, along with Jardin Mediterran and the newly-released Kelly Caleche. I am not a big fan of Lovely - but Parker's personal favorite scents are some of my own, and I also wear Covet on a regular basis... and now I will look forward to her next release, which I hope will have that 'dirty' feel she's been wanting to put out there from the beginning...

Chandler Burr is definitely knowledgeable about the perfume industry as a whole and, when writing this book, had a tremendous advantage above many other journalists in the same field by being an involved onlooker in the creative process from the very beginning. He got to know the teams at Hermes and at Coty, interviewed Jean-Claude Ellena & Sarah Jessica Parker, and observed the fascinatig process of the creation and marketing of a fragrance from the inside - and in detail; however for me this was not enough.An essential aspect of any book of this nature is the impression one gets of the impartiality of the author however, although I am convinced that Chandler Burr started the process which culminated in this book with a totally impartial approach, it soon appeared to me that he soon developed a closer working relationship with all those involved in the creation of 'Lovely'. To me this was not surprising. Most of the Coty team, SJP and Chandler Burr himself were American, with a shared (and rather more open) approach to publicity; Hermes is a French company with strong family roots and, I suspect, an instinctive wariness concerning the dangers of letting a 'stranger' in on their deliberations. Coty were aware of the advantages of getting CB on side and one of the results was a free bookmark, scented with the perfume they had created and were wanting to sell - so I (and thousands of other people) have smelled 'Lovely' but not 'Un Jardin sur le Nil'.'Lovely' is indeed lovely, a charming, well-constructed feminine fragrance. Maybe 'Nil' is equally lovely but I don't know, I haven't yet had a chance to test it.Buy this book if you want a really good inside look at the workings of the perfume industry, and note the differences between the European (specifically French) and the American way of doing things - all this was quite fascinating - but you will be aware with every sentence that it is written by an American who could not help but be more comfortable working with his compatriots.

Until a few weeks ago I knew nothing about the perfume industry.I have an interest in 'business biographies' ... books that explain the initial concepts, developments, marketing and growth of everyday products. I am not talking text book stuff here, just lively and informative journalistic style that entertains.This book delivered for me. Next time my lady takes me through the 'cosmetics hall' at the front of a department store or we are waiting for our flight to be called as we loiter in the departure lounge perfume shops I shall have more idea of what went on behind the scenes. I never did see Sex in the City but, after reading this book I wish I had as Sarah Jessica Parker sounds an absolute delight.

I've long been interested in fragrance, & I read Luca Turin's 'bible' with great interest (it confirms my thoughts on how many lovely fragrances are 're-formulated'). This is a remarkably open account of a highly secretive industry, and a really fascinating read. Hermes fragrances are now on my wish list (I understand about the exclusivity, but oh how I wish they weren't quite so expensive!)- & while I never usually purchase any 'named star' fragrance, I might make an exception in this instance! One final thought: I am filled with curiosity over those fragrances that didn't make the commercial cut...

I have had the pleasure, a couple of years ago, to attend a conference within the perfumery industry, where Mr.Burr was one of the speakers. His intervention was sharp, concisive, knowledgeable and utterly spot-on. The same pleasure I have experienced in reading this book which literally draws you into a reality not every perfume lover may be aware of. A very interesting, intelligent snapshot of the current "scented" panorama. We will hopefully be reading more by the same author, of no-nonsense, able journalists we are in need!

This book is a brilliant introduction to the arcane world of perfumery. A must-read for any perfume or cosmetics enthusiast, and very funny and at times shocking. Let down by the godawful style of writing - the author would clearly rather be a novelist and there are acres of self-aggrandising rubbish and hip street talk to wade through. But read it for the information it contains, not the style.