---
product_id: 33441330
title: "Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794"
brand: "beck/arnley"
price: "36200 Ft"
currency: HUF
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Beck/Arnley"
url: https://www.desertcart.hu/products/33441330-beck-arnley-ignition-switch-201-1794
store_origin: HU
region: Hungary
---

# Corrosion-resistant nickel contacts 100% tested electrical & mechanical OE form-fit-function match Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794

**Brand:** beck/arnley
**Price:** 36200 Ft
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Ignite reliability, ditch the stall drama!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 by beck/arnley
- **How much does it cost?** 36200 Ft with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.hu](https://www.desertcart.hu/products/33441330-beck-arnley-ignition-switch-201-1794)

## Best For

- beck/arnley enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted beck/arnley brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Simple DIY Installation:** Designed for easy replacement with minimal tools—get your ride back on the road fast and confident.
- • **Precision OE Compatibility:** Seamlessly fits your vehicle’s original wiring and ignition cylinder for hassle-free installation.
- • **Rigorous Quality Assurance:** Every switch undergoes 100% mechanical and electrical testing to guarantee flawless operation.
- • **Trusted by Millennial Managers:** Join thousands who fixed stalling issues and avoided costly repairs with this proven ignition switch.
- • **Durable Corrosion-Resistant Contacts:** Nickel-plated contacts ensure long-lasting, reliable electrical performance even in harsh conditions.

## Overview

The Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch 201-1794 is a premium replacement part engineered to match original equipment specifications for form, fit, and function. Featuring corrosion-resistant nickel contacts and 100% tested mechanical and electrical performance, it ensures dependable ignition system operation. Ideal for DIY enthusiasts and professionals alike, this switch resolves common stalling issues in older vehicles, delivering peace of mind and seamless driving experience.

## Description

Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.

Review: Fixed random stalling of 1998 Honda C-RV. - This fixed my random stalling and no starts on my 1998 Honda CRV. There is a known problem with the ignition switch on first generation Honda CR-Vs. I talked to a tech at Honda who tried to tell me my random stalling was not the ignition switch because I would be able to shake the keys in the ignition to get it to stall but that was not happening. No matter how much I tried to shake the key I could not force it to stall. He also said if it were the ignition switch it would always start back up right away which was not always the case. Sometimes it would and other times I'd have to wait minutes or let the engine try to turn over for several seconds. He didn't know what he was talking about because I replaced the switch and now my car does not stall while driving. It would normally stall about 15 minutes into my drive then stall 4-5 more times within the next several minutes of driving after restarts. Eventually it would stop stalling and continue to drive until the next day after the car sat. Again it would start stalling around 15 minutes into my drive. Sometimes the engine would cut in and out. It was just like someone quickly turned off the ignition then back on right away. This is an easy fix. You only need to drop the lower dash panel on the driver side. It's just two screws and some clips. The ignition switch screws into the back of the mechanical portion of the ignition switch that you put your key into with two Phillips head screws. You'll. Need to cut a few zip ties to remove the old wire harness and unplug the two connectors. You'll need a few new zip ties to hold the new wire harness in place. Now, if this does not fix your stalls here's what else it could be: 1). Main relay (for fuel injectors and fuel pump behind the lower passenger side dash panel). Another easy fix. Remove the glove box held be two screws and the lower passenger side dash. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the bracket holding the main relay in. 2) Ignition control module (ignitor). This is inside the distributor next to the ignition coil. Not too hard of a job. You need to remove the air filter assembly and take the distributor cap, rotor, and rotor cover off to get to it. It's held on by a few screws with wires going to it. There is a heat sink on it you will need to move to the new ignitor. The hardest part is lining up the screw that holds the rotor on with the slot in the rotor cover to reach it with a screw driver. You'll need to "bump" the motor by quick turns off the key until the rotor lands in the right position to reach the screw. 3) Ignition coil. This is not as likely unless your car doesn't start at all but you could still have a weak coil which could cause intermittent stalls. It's next to the ignition so it's basically the same job as removing the ignitor. 4) Spark plugs, rotor, and rotor cap. If any of these or combination of are really bad you could stall and have a hard time starting the engine. This is less likely unless your engine runs poorly too. How do I know this because I changed all these things because the Honds tech told me it couldn't be the ignition switch. Don't listen to the Honda techs. They don't want to take the time to look up your VIN to see if your ignition switch was covered under the recall or they are just plain ignorant of the recall problem that happened around 18 years ago. I never got to the fuel pump but that's the last thing I would have replaced had the ignition switch not fixed my problem. There's always there remote chance of a bad electrical connection somewhere like a ground wire or bad fuse panel under the dash. If you are here reading reviews I'd start by replacing the ignition switch first. The electrical part with wire harness not the mechanical part with the key tumbler. So I took the old switch apart and what I found was all the contact points looked like they were covered in carbon. They looked more dirty than burnt. It looked and felt like soot. I was able to clean them with a q-tip and fine sandpaper. I probably could have reused the old switch but since I bought a new one on desertcart for only $28 I didn't bother of want to chance it. If you do want to try cleaning and reusing the original switch be careful taking it apart so you don't break any of the clips that hold it together. You will need to pry up on several clips simultaneously. Not easy. I've attached an image of what the dirty contacts looked like in the old ignition switch. Hope this helps someone. Took me over a week the hard way to figure out my problem.
Review: Solved engine dying problem for 1997 Honda CRV. - Yes, this was recalled and replaced back in early 2000s. Figures the engine dying problem would show up after owning the car for so long, since 97. Problem cropped up on one of those over 100 degrees days. I thing the spring pushing the contact probably weaken with age and the heat. Took apart the old switch because I was curious. Actually easy to install. Follow the original wiring and plug in as you unplug. Could probably install it without removing front under panels. Everything is underneath and in the back of the fuse block. Do have to cut the wire ties holding the old wires to the frame tho.

## Features

- Matches OE form, fit, and function
- Switch only - does not include steering lock
- Premium materials that include corrosion resistant contacts
- Manufactured to fit OE wiring harness and ignition cylinder
- 100% tested for both mechanical and electrical performance

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B002E53RKO |
| Actuator Type | Ignition |
| Best Sellers Rank | #308,515 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #835 in Automotive Replacement Ignition Starter Switches |
| Brand | Beck/Arnley |
| Circuit Type | 1-way |
| Color | Black |
| Connectivity Protocol | X-10 |
| Connector Type | Molex |
| Contact Material | Nickel |
| Contact Type | Normally Open |
| Control Method | Touch |
| Controller Type | Push Button |
| Current Rating | 20 Amps |
| Customer Reviews | 4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars (171) |
| Date First Available | October 10, 2007 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00049797781327 |
| International Protection Rating | IP54 |
| Item Weight | 6.7 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches |
| Item model number | 201-1794 |
| Manufacturer | Beck/Arnley |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 2011794 |
| Model | Ignition Switch |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Number of Positions | 1 |
| Operation Mode | Mechanical,Electrical |
| Product Dimensions | 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches |
| Terminal | Screw |
| UPC | 049797781327 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Vehicle Service Type | Car, Truck |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Beck/Arnley
- **Circuit Type:** 1-way
- **Connector Type:** Molex
- **Contact Type:** Normally Open
- **Current Rating:** 20 Amps
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 4.3 x 2 x 7 inches
- **Material:** [MI] Stainless Steel, Aluminum, or Brass
- **Operation Mode:** Mechanical,Electrical
- **Switch Type:** Ignition Switch
- **Terminal:** Screw

## Images

![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61mabQzaAwS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Z7yLbAk4S.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61hA3Hhr5CS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61vjV7nSLAS.jpg)
![Beck/Arnley Ignition Switch - 201-1794 - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/610KzuWkfjS.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Fixed random stalling of 1998 Honda C-RV.
*by C***1 on April 8, 2018*

This fixed my random stalling and no starts on my 1998 Honda CRV. There is a known problem with the ignition switch on first generation Honda CR-Vs. I talked to a tech at Honda who tried to tell me my random stalling was not the ignition switch because I would be able to shake the keys in the ignition to get it to stall but that was not happening. No matter how much I tried to shake the key I could not force it to stall. He also said if it were the ignition switch it would always start back up right away which was not always the case. Sometimes it would and other times I'd have to wait minutes or let the engine try to turn over for several seconds. He didn't know what he was talking about because I replaced the switch and now my car does not stall while driving. It would normally stall about 15 minutes into my drive then stall 4-5 more times within the next several minutes of driving after restarts. Eventually it would stop stalling and continue to drive until the next day after the car sat. Again it would start stalling around 15 minutes into my drive. Sometimes the engine would cut in and out. It was just like someone quickly turned off the ignition then back on right away. This is an easy fix. You only need to drop the lower dash panel on the driver side. It's just two screws and some clips. The ignition switch screws into the back of the mechanical portion of the ignition switch that you put your key into with two Phillips head screws. You'll. Need to cut a few zip ties to remove the old wire harness and unplug the two connectors. You'll need a few new zip ties to hold the new wire harness in place. Now, if this does not fix your stalls here's what else it could be: 1). Main relay (for fuel injectors and fuel pump behind the lower passenger side dash panel). Another easy fix. Remove the glove box held be two screws and the lower passenger side dash. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the bracket holding the main relay in. 2) Ignition control module (ignitor). This is inside the distributor next to the ignition coil. Not too hard of a job. You need to remove the air filter assembly and take the distributor cap, rotor, and rotor cover off to get to it. It's held on by a few screws with wires going to it. There is a heat sink on it you will need to move to the new ignitor. The hardest part is lining up the screw that holds the rotor on with the slot in the rotor cover to reach it with a screw driver. You'll need to "bump" the motor by quick turns off the key until the rotor lands in the right position to reach the screw. 3) Ignition coil. This is not as likely unless your car doesn't start at all but you could still have a weak coil which could cause intermittent stalls. It's next to the ignition so it's basically the same job as removing the ignitor. 4) Spark plugs, rotor, and rotor cap. If any of these or combination of are really bad you could stall and have a hard time starting the engine. This is less likely unless your engine runs poorly too. How do I know this because I changed all these things because the Honds tech told me it couldn't be the ignition switch. Don't listen to the Honda techs. They don't want to take the time to look up your VIN to see if your ignition switch was covered under the recall or they are just plain ignorant of the recall problem that happened around 18 years ago. I never got to the fuel pump but that's the last thing I would have replaced had the ignition switch not fixed my problem. There's always there remote chance of a bad electrical connection somewhere like a ground wire or bad fuse panel under the dash. If you are here reading reviews I'd start by replacing the ignition switch first. The electrical part with wire harness not the mechanical part with the key tumbler. So I took the old switch apart and what I found was all the contact points looked like they were covered in carbon. They looked more dirty than burnt. It looked and felt like soot. I was able to clean them with a q-tip and fine sandpaper. I probably could have reused the old switch but since I bought a new one on Amazon for only $28 I didn't bother of want to chance it. If you do want to try cleaning and reusing the original switch be careful taking it apart so you don't break any of the clips that hold it together. You will need to pry up on several clips simultaneously. Not easy. I've attached an image of what the dirty contacts looked like in the old ignition switch. Hope this helps someone. Took me over a week the hard way to figure out my problem.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Solved engine dying problem for 1997 Honda CRV.
*by P***O on May 7, 2024*

Yes, this was recalled and replaced back in early 2000s. Figures the engine dying problem would show up after owning the car for so long, since 97. Problem cropped up on one of those over 100 degrees days. I thing the spring pushing the contact probably weaken with age and the heat. Took apart the old switch because I was curious. Actually easy to install. Follow the original wiring and plug in as you unplug. Could probably install it without removing front under panels. Everything is underneath and in the back of the fuse block. Do have to cut the wire ties holding the old wires to the frame tho.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Worked great
*by K***3 on February 9, 2025*

Had a 99 crv with the ignition going out. Car would intermitantly die. So I took the colum apart and when it died I was able to shake this piece and it started rite up. I changed this out and haven't had any issues since.

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*Product available on Desertcart Hungary*
*Store origin: HU*
*Last updated: 2026-03-18*