Rust Kutter- Rust Converter, Stops Rust, Professional Rust Repair – Quart

Bought a used car and the undercarriage is heavily rusted. I wanted to restore it before it’s completely rotten away. Use this rust converter instead of other rust paint which just mask off the rust and hide the ongoing rust. I’m also a chemist, and I checked their SDS (safety data sheet), the active ingredient is phosphorus acid, which coverts Fe2O3 to more structurally stable FePO4. Low concentration H3PO4 will not damage good steel. It also means it can be irritating, so prepare your PPE, e.g. gloves, goggles, respirator, and have good ventilation if possible. Prepare the surface by brushing off loose chucks of rust by some metal brush. It’s dispensed in water/oil suspension, so do shake well before spray, and stay at least overnight, let the acid sealed in oil film do the job. Spray water the next day and wipe off, let it dry. You will see white to gray marks which are the converted rust, and you can paint it if you like.

I used this to repair a rusty iron handrail and some rusted commercial window frames. This product is amazing! I made sure and scraped away all of the flaking paint, and lightly sanded and wire-brushed the rusted areas before treating them. It turned out great!My one caution is something that was user error on my part. When I was spraying it on, it was a windy day. Some of the spray got on a gallon of paint thinner that I was using nearby, and it took the finish right off, leaving a dull, galvanized nail look to the top of the can. I also had some over-spray land on an aluminum door threshold, and it did the same thing, leaving it looking spotted and dull gray. This is not product error, it is user error, but I tell you so that you don't make the same mistake.I also got some on me, but no issues there, just wash thoroughly after application.

I didn’t have any acids stronger than vinegar near by and couldn’t strip the heavy brown tarnish that Bronze achieves (if anyone has ever tried removing it you’d know it’s extremely difficult compared to Copper and Brass for some reason). I ended up using this which contains Phosphoric Acid so within a half hour of coating my Aluminum Bronze tool I was able to remove the majority of the tarnish using #0000 steel wool (I soaked and scrubbed every 10 minutes to remove dirt and oxidized metal from the surface). I then cleaned the tool and finished with Never Dull then coated in Olive Oil.I did not try any other form of Bronze besides “Aluminum Bronze” and I did not try Brass (I suspect it may possibly damage the metal if not enough care is taken as Zinc is not very resistant to acids), so if you do use this on a different type of metal test on a scrap piece or inconspicuous place.Wear your PPE with this stuff; chemical resistant gloves, goggles, appropriate clothing.

be safe and wear safety glasses and use in well ventilated areas. if you get this on your skin it might irritate it. i use it to spray little spots on my trucks suspension and it seems to really keep the rust at bay. very pleased its good stuff the only issue was i used it all up after a few months. so I am ordering another bottle

It works sooooooo well, it will fuse the metal. lolI used it to clean a couple of bike's chains. It consumed the rust, BUT it also helped fuse some of the links. That, my friend, was my bad. I should have oiled the chains immediately or after the liquid evaporated.Mind you, I didn't oil the chains after a few days. If I had moved fast enough with the oiling, the chains would not have fused.The point is that this product DOES WORK.I am just giving you a go at it - do try it and use it, BUT if you don't want the metal against metal fusing, use oil to avoid the fusion.