EGETOTA Cat Door Flap Extra Large (Outer Size 11" x 9.8"), 4 Way Locking for Interior Exterior Doors, Weatherproof Pet Door for Cats Doggie Kitties & Kittens, Easy Installation

It was easy to install, arrived quickly and my cats began using it within 24 hours. They took a minute to realize they were able to come and go as they wanted.

Just bought and installed this cat door. It’s worth the money. Only problem is is we are using it for our 6 cats that stay in our shop and some how they have learned to lock them self out 🤦‍♀️

I’ve had a couple of these over the years. The plastic holds up fine. The clear flap gets scratched over time of course. The weatherstrip needs to be replaced about every year ( I have had some chubby cats). They do make a bit of noise if your pet does anything other than slink through. The clear door, when it’s new, helps in training a reluctant fraidy cat. It seemed to help that my cat could hear as well as see me on the other side. The locks wear out after several years but the door continues to work fine. The locks are easy to use but I did have to tape them into position as the whole thing wore out over time. They don’t cost a lot and are easy to swap out for a new one so I’d say it’s a good product and certainly worth what it costs..

Lightweight. Nice fit, even if you mess up the cutting a little bit. Easy to use for my cat since my cat was already accustomed to similar style door on cat litter box. Good value for the money decent quality. Used it for interior so can't say whether or not it would be good for external use. But has nice closure with adjustable locks.

Really like this thing. I laser cut a piece of clear acrylic and used some foam insulation strips to mount this in a window. Worked out perfectly, and I didn't need to drill holes in any doors. Took around 3 months to train my cat to use the door when it was completely closed. For the longest time he was perfectly fine using it with even just a tiny centimeter gap (suspending it open with a string), but if it was closed all the way he wouldn't come through because the magnet was giving too much resistance. The insulation on the product itsself is starting to come loose but that can be fixed with a little glue. Lock works quite well, it is too stiff for my cat to work and lets me leave the door set so he can always get back in if one of my roommates accidentally lets him out thanks to the one way settings. Overall just the product I needed. I'd look into making an acrylic window mount if you have a suitable first floor window, it'll be significantly cheaper than anything you find online and isn't too difficult to do. If I can edit this I'll add photos to show what I mean.

The product works well enough. I was just getting tired of making absolutely sure that I keep the bedroom door open a smidge so the cat can go out and snack and use the litter box so I got this to put a hole in my interior bedroom door. For that purpose, this product is fantastic. HOWEVER: The instructions are pretty terrible. It does not recognize that you have to have a "pilot hole" drilled so that you can even put a saw blade through to cut. It also instructs you to drill holes right were you would screw in the frame to secure it to the wood of the door. I ended up making a hash of it with the cut being visible even after I screwed in the frame but whatever... I just needed a hole. What I ended up doing was making a combination of good calls and bad calls because the instructions were not useful: - GOOD CALL - I drew the template on paper first. More accurate and easier on the back than trying to scribe the damn thing on a vertical surface on the floor. I was also kinda pissed that they did not INCLUDE A TEMPLATE! lots of other of these kinds of products DO. Anyway, to draw your own, just tape two pieces of paper together and trace away. - GOOD CALL - I drilled the holes large using a 5/16" in bit so i had a chance of sliding in the dry wall saw I was going to use. I did not have access to an electric jigsaw and as i turned out, my interior bedroom door was hollow so it was fine for the task. - BAD CALL - I drilled the holes at the points where i traced the from the frame where the screws are supposed to go. At this point in the process, I wasn't thinking very much about how this was going to go so I just ASSUMED that the frame was meant to screw from one side of the frame to its mate and friction fit to the door. I glanced a few times at the screws that came with it and should have known they wouldn't be long enough to do that but I drilled what I drilled. WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: 1. Get your taped together pieces of paper and trace the outline of the frame - the outside perimeter AS WELL as the inside hole. 2. Use a piece of pencil lead for a mechanical pencil to push through the screw holes to draw on the template where the screw holes are. You're going to have to use something like that because no pen or pencil is going to get through the depth of the frame to be able to leave a mark on the paper. Alternatively, you can place the template on top of the frame where where the holes are nearest to the paper and just punch holes with a pen in the right place. 3. So now you have TWO OUTLINES, the inside outline and the outside outline. What you need to do is DRAW A THIRD OUTLINE BETWEEN THE TWO. The inner outline is not rectangular - it has curved bottom corners. Ignore that and make your third outline rectangular and as simple to cut as possible. Make SURE that the outline does not touch the OUTER outline... otherwise, you may have a gap on the OUTSIDE of the frame when you're done. ALSO, make sure that the line is not near the screw hole points that you marked on the template. You're going to need to drill holes, but you are NOT going to drill them to coincide with the screw holes. 4. After you've completed drawing your third outline, you are going to mark drill holes in the middle of each side of your rectangle. don't go for the corners because then, you may over-drill and drill out the part of the door where you need to screw the frame to. 5. Use a level or measure from the bottom of the door so that the frame would be level and straight. Use the guide for high how high away from the bottom of the door from the included instructions (just about the only helpful thing). For me, it was about 4 inches from the bottom of the door. 6. Tape the template do the door. 7. Drill the big holes. 8. Use the holes to insert the blade of your saw and start cutting. 9. In drilling and cutting, take care to be AS PERPENDICULAR to the surface of the door as possible... if you drill in or cut crookedly, the cut on the other side of the door will not line up properly with the hole you're cutting on the near side (it's like shooting a gun, a little unintentional angle at the point of shooting results in a large offset at the target - in this case, the other side of the door which is a couple of inches away). That's the tricky stuff. The rest is just putting the frame on either side of the door and screwing the frame to the door on both sides. You can probably just use an electric screw driver to drive the screws into the door but if at this point, that's not working, you can use a small gauge drill bit to drill pilot holes for the screws. Just remember that the drill bit should be NARROWER than the screws provided.

Easy installation

WARNING! Do not follow instructions and use a chainsaw!!!🤣

It is very small and when I requested a refund , the seller was not cooperating, I do not recommend to deal with this seller