Festool494391 KL-KS 120 494391 Workpiece Clamp - Black

Given the brand I had higher hopes for this clamp. It loosens up as you try to lock it into place, so I have to keep pressure down on the piston as I'm locking it into place, or the board will stay loose. Well made overall, but the locking feature needs refinement.

This is now my second clamp for my Kapex. Some might think it's over kill or a waste, but I like having a clamp on each side of the blade. It's more useful than you'd think, least for the stuff I do.As for the clamp, it's just an outstanding idea. Most miter saw clamps, are screw type that you have to screw up and down to loosen or tighten. They are a pain, and if something is a pain to use, there is a good chance it won't get used. I hardly ever use the one on my old saw. But these, quick and easy to set the height, pull down the lever and done. So frickin easy. And they hold very tightly.Some might say they are to expensive, but I am more than happy I bought two. Would recommend.

This clamp is awesome.I needed to move into my own shop and buy my own tools to make my Hard Maple Unit Blocks. I had been spoiled by the  Festool Kapex KS 120 Sliding Compound Miter Saw  in the shared shop I used to work in, but I didn't have $1300 to spend. So I bit the bullet and bought the closest thing I could find: the  DEWALT DW717 10-Inch Double-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter-Saw .Almost as good, but the Dewalt screw down clamps were driving me crazy. They take so much longer to set and release than the Festool clamp's lever action. I make hard maple standard unit blocks for a living. This means that, at points throughout the day, I need to be able to move, set, cut, and remove small blocks of hard maple cut to a precision of 5/1000 of an inch. A fast clamp if a must, and the stock Dewalt screw-down miter saw clamps are not fast.However, I noticed that the base of the Dewalt miter saw clamps looked similar to the Festool Hold Down Clamp, so I took a risk and ordered my own Festool Hold Down Clamp for use on the Dewalt Miter Saw.Wow! It works!The two clamp stems are almost identical.The Dewalt DW717 Sliding Miter has almost identical anchor points to the Festool Kapex KS 120. The left-hand anchor point on the Dewalt DW717 is set a little further back limiting rotation for the Festool clamp, but the right-hand anchor point on the Dewalt DW717 is set back almost identically from the fence as the anchor points on the Festool Kapex KS 120 and both anchor points are about an 1/8" deeper, so you can either drop a bead in the hole or slightly lift the Festool Hold Down Clamp when you set the clamp.If you have to cut a lot of pieces fast, and have a Dewalt Miter Saw, you should think about buying this.All the best,Pepi AceboCarolina Pratt Unit Blocks Festool Kapex KS 120 Sliding Compound Miter SawDEWALT DW717 10-Inch Double-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter-Saw

In terms of overall functionality this is the fastest/simplest miter saw hold-down on the market. Bar none. You can move it into place, adjust it, and secure it into a hold position in 3 seconds...with one hand. And it provides all the holding power you'll need. For those Bosch owners, yes, it will work, but not out of the box. Another user provided the simplest fix which I'll reiterate here. Take it to your belt sander and evenly sand down the portion of the shaft up to the point where it flares out to serve as a positive stop for insertion (about 2") until it will slide smoothly into the hole (about 1/16th off the diameter, give or take). You could do it by hand without a stationary belt sander, but it wouldn't be pleasant (Wen has a cheap one for like $30 on Amazon that includes clamps to hold it down). You could also tap the hole(s) in the miter saw slightly larger but I usually opt to permanently modify the least expensive component ;) Also, if Bosch (or someone else) comes out with a similar hold-down I'd prefer the holes to be their factory size.

Molto pratico, rapido nel bloccare il pezzo o la tavola di legno. Il bloccaggio è molto buono. Più complicato poi " sbloccare " la tavola. Molto spesso il cursore non sale più perchè l'asta metallica sul quale dovrebbe scorrere si " riga". In poche parole, l'asta metallica che è liscia nel momento in cui viene fissato il morsetto, viene intaccata da questo e si forma un solco trasversale che grippa e impedisce al cursore di risalire e quindi il pezzo rimane bloccato. In pratica il morsetto non si allenta. Questo perchè la tolleranza del cursore che scorre sull'asta è minima e quindi basta un piccolo segno sul metallo o una piccola increspatura e questo non scorre più. Forse con un asta in acciaio, più difficile da scalfire questo non succederebbe. Dopo averli usati, ogni volta con la carta abrasiva da 400 carteggio l'asta metallica e mitigo i solchi. Così posso usarli ancora. Ma questa operazione va fatta spesso se non si vuol correre il rischio di non riuscire più a togliere i morsetti dal legno.