Fotasy FD Lens to Fuji X Adapter, Canon FD Lens to Fujifilm X Mount Adapter, Compatible with Fujifilm X-Mount X-Pro2 X-E2 X-E3 X-A5 X-M1 X-T1 X-T2 XT3 X-T10 X-T20 X-T30 X-H1

Buen producto, la unidad que me llegó no es exactamente igual a la mostrada en las fotos, solo cambia la forma muy sutil pero no le ví problema, el lado que acopla al objetivo lo sujeta firme y por otro lado el que acopla a la cámara tiene juego (movimiento) al ya estar acoplado a la montura, aunque no demasiado, de hecho es muy pequeño, solo lo comenté ya que esperaba que el adaptador a la cámara estuviese perfectamente firme, pero fuera de eso cumple perfectamente su funcionNota adicional: en un principio batalle enormemente para acoplar los objetivos al adaptador pero es cuestión de tener paciencia

Excelente material, si quieres un producto para poder usar tus viejos lentes, éste es el indicado, además, de ser económico

One of the nice advantages of mirrorless cameras with their short flange distances is that it's very easy to adapt older (and cheap!) lenses without having to put glass converters. So, you can use your old lenses without any noticeable degradation in quality.The adapter fits snugly but not too tightly, both on the Fuji side and on the Canon FD or FL side (works for both, since it's the same mount). It's cheap, but there's nothing wrong with build quality, and since there are no optical elements, there won't be any new distortions. Depending on tolerances, you might have issues focusing at infinity, but I don't have a problem with my copy.So far, I've tested it with the Canon FL 50/1.4, Vivitar 28mm/2.8 and Canon FL135/2.5. Works flawlessly both with the lenses by themselves and with extension tubes for macro.I've uploaded some quick shots of Mr. Claus with the Canon 50 and Vivitar 28 (taken from the same position, so the wider shot is the vivitar), and a macro shot of the Fuji XF18-55, using the Vivitar 28 and a 18mm Extension tube. For the macro I stopped down to f22 so there's some depth of field at all. Any softness is caused by the lens itself. In all cases, focus was on the eye, using focus peaking and viewfinder magnification.Some comments:The Aperture Lock/Open ring is a bit confusing at first, since "open" is up top when it's stopped down, and "locked" is up when it's open. There are arrows showing the direction you have to twist, but it's not intuitive. It would have cost absolutely nothing to make it so both the arrows and the legend up top are consistent. If you have a lens that allows you to manually stop down (like the Canon FL 50/1.4), then you might be better served using that ring instead of the adapter.Fuji's Manual Focus assists work perfectly with all lenses, but you do have to move the AF lever to Manual.You have to be sure the adapter is "open" when you change lenses, otherwise you won't be able to stop down your lens. This isn't a problem specific to the adapter, and has all to do with the mechanical linkage the FD system uses to control aperture. On Canon Cameras there was no problem because it always defaulted to open when you weren't shooting.

I am now able to use my Canon FD lens on my Fujifilm XT3! This adaptor is "plug and play"! I love it.

For the Canon FD version:A great adapter at an inexpensive price -- I've got three of them now. The FD version includes a ring to switch between wide-open and stopped-down. Normally you'll want the lens stopped down, but having it wide open while focusing gives a better view of the focus. In particular, the Fuji split-image focus assist is pretty insensitive while the lens is stopped down.That stop-down ring can be confusing when you first get the adapter. First off, it's marked "Lock" and "Open." I figured that if Open was on top, the lens was wide open, and if I turned the ring so Lock was on top, then the aperture was stopped down. Silly me. Look very closely, and you'll see that the white line between the words Lock and Open has arrowheads on both ends. They indicate which *way* to turn the ring to achieve that effect. So to open up the lens, turn in the Open direction, until Lock is on top. To stop down, turn in the Lock direction until Open is on top. Simple, yes?Another complication from the ring is that you should have it in the Open position when you mount the FD lens. Otherwise the ring won't be able to turn, and the lens will be stuck wide-open no matter what you set the aperture ring at. I recommend mounting the lens to the adapter, then the adapter to the camera -- the instruction slip says the same thing. After you get the lens mounted and before mounting on the camera, look through the adapter while you turn the stop-down ring to make sure the ring is operating properly, and (the first few times) to get accustomed to how the stop-down ring works.