⚡️ Sand Smarter, Not Harder – Every Inch Counts!
The 3M Stikit Gold Sheet Roll 236U offers a 2-3/4" x 30-yard continuous abrasive roll with P120 grit, engineered for automotive professionals seeking maximum material efficiency and consistent, high-quality sanding performance in industrial environments.
T**R
Best PSA sandpaper hands down
3M gold PSA sandpaper is by far the best for woodworking. It seems to last significantly longer than other brands, has a much more even abrasive grit size, and just the right amount of adhesive. Also the backing removes easier than other brands making it easier to use. I have it in 80, 250, 220, and 400. The coarser grits seem to be the best value. I highly recommend this product after having spent less to try other brands and been quite disappointed.
B**.
Best in the business!
This is the best paper I've found for block sanding, leveling frets, or any general sanding job.
D**W
Convenience & Durability
Easy to peal and stick. Holds tight to sanding block. Peals off without a fuss or residue as long as you don’t leave it on your sanding block too long. I would advise not leaving it on the block more than a day or two in order to avoid tearing and residue.Particle grading seems consistent. No stray large particles to mess up your surface. Abrasive particles stay attached to paper and last a long time. Paper is coated evenly with particles. No bald spots.
T**S
Great for flattening woodworking plane soles and establishing plane iron & chisel bevels
I use 3M Stikit Gold on a flat granite reference plate to flatten plane soles, and for regrinding the primary bevel on plane irons and chisels. I also use it to flatten the backs of planes irons and chisels, but extra care and good technique need to be followed as not to “dub” the edges of the plane or chisel (more details later on). The 80 grit is employed when I need to remove a lot of material quickly, and is the coarsest grit offered in the Stikit Gold lineup. It can remove metal quickly when needed.For flattening plane soles, I typically first test sole flatness in the 120 - 220 grit range, and then drop back to the 80 grit if the surface is too far out of flat to remove material faster. Many times older, vintage planes call for this aggressive grit. Note I use both the 2 3/4" wide Stikit or the 4 1/2 wide Stikit depending on what size plane I am flattening. For #6, #7 and #8 planes, the 4 1/2 wide works best as the 2 3/4" is too narrow. For planes #5 and under, the 2 3/4 inch works best. I have tried other methods and other brands of adhesive sandpaper to flatten plane soles, but the Stikit has worked the best. When flattening a large #8 jointer plane, you need a longer granite block, and flattening large planes can take a lot more elbow grease.The advantage of the Stikit is that it is reusable many times. The adhesive sticks just enough that you can easily pull it up when you are done, and then re-sticks multiple times. Other adhesive papers I have tried stick too well, and removal destroys the paper, rendering it unusable after one use. Plus, other methods such as like SC grit is too messy, and not practical for big planes.For establishing primary bevels on plane irons, the sandpaper method works great for fast metal removal, and the 80 grit is for when you are regrinding the entire bevel. Depending on the blade type and width I either start with 80 or 120 grit, but sometimes even 150 or 200 for very narrow blades or very soft steel. For chisels, since I am removing less material, I typically start with 120 or 150 - unless there is a serious nick in the chisel then I might call on the 80 grit paper.For flattening the backs of plane irons or chisels - I ONLY go to sandpaper if my 400 grit Sigma or 320 grit Cerax is not making progress fast enough, and the back needs serious metal removal. There are times when I buy a vintage plane iron or chisel and it needs sandpaper flattening due to be out of flat considerably. Most modern irons / chisels come flat enough to start on the stones. NOTE - whenever flattening and plane / chisel back, especially when starting with 80 grit, you need to be extra careful and have good technique. Take it slow, and keep even downward pressure across the blade, and straight / even strokes. Don't frantically move the blade back and forth with uneven pressure - you will regret this when you transition to the stones to begin polishing the back.... what happens is with bad technique you round the edges and bevel (dub) and create more work, and you also get an uneven grind which is deeper in spots and makes a lot more work on the stones.Note I always then transition to watersones after sandpaper to continue finer metal removal, progressing up through the watersone grits until I get a nice mirror finish on the back, or I get a mirror bevel. After progressing to 400 grit paper, it is a nice jump off point to move to something like a Cerax 320 or SP 400 stone to continue flattening or bevel setting.I hope this helps anyone thinking of trying sandpaper for faster metal removal when the situation calls for it. For further information and videos of Stikit Gold in action, go to lie-nielsen.com – Lie Nielsen also uses Stikit to perform primary bevel setting, and there are some good videos out there of Stikit Gold in use. They also sell Stikit Gold.Highly recommended, thanks for reading!
J**N
Diameter clarity
Hello all,First the paper cuts great, last and does not clog.Second,, As for the diameters of the rolls, Although the paper may measure the same thickness. coarser grits are thicker around the circumfernece.In my picture,, bottom to top,, 150, 220, 320, 400 gradually getting smaller in diameter as they are finer.150 grit = 5 1/2 inches220 grit = 4 3/4320 grit = 4 3/8400 grit = 4 1/8
D**E
Worth every nickel
Just right for the first cut after using the heat gun and scraper to strip away 90 plus years of paint on my 1924 mission style bungalow. Tear off just what you need and it fits perfectly to the 3.5 inch 3M sanding block. The adhesive backing holds it firmly to the block for a positive sanding action. Last longer for paint stripping than any othe brand I've used. I was even able to wire brush the paint from the sand papere several times and get more out of it. Be sure to store it in a zip lock bag when not in use to protect the adhesive backing. Don't bother with cheap alternatives, your time is too valuable even for a hobbyist or a do it yourselfer.
B**D
Works great except for varnish
Works very well on wood surfaces, cuts nicely and lasts. Not for varnish: clogs up very rapidly with varnish.
D**L
3 m sandpaper
goor product
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