Victor Plunger Style Mole Trap, Spring Trap for Lawns and Gardens

I had to buy 5 of these due to the moles tearing up my yard in different places. This year alone I’ve gotten 6 of these destructive little buggers! Setting the trap can be a chore, but once you figure it out, it’s fairly easy. Remember to step down on the raised dirt mound with your foot, before inserting the trap. This gives the mechanism a close proximity to the dirt, so any movement upward releases the hand of death! Once inserted, I also step down on the UNSET plate to push the spikes all the way into the ground (reducing friction when it goes off) Then set the trap and leave in alone. I usually put all 5 traps on one trail in different locations near the end of a trail where it looks like they stopped digging…they will come back to dig more…and WHAM!

The first time I set this, it was pretty easy. I literally took it out of the box and went straight to their tunnel and set the trap per the instructions (very crude instructions, I might add). After 2 days, nothing. It rained heavily, and they seemed to move to the other end of the yard, so I pulled up the trap and attempted to set it on the other end of the yard. Wow, could not get the little lever to stay on the outside while I set the trap. Took forever and when I was finally able to set it, it was in the wrong place. Third time I couldn't set it at all and it almost took my finger off. You literally have to hold that lever while you're setting it and that's very dangerous. My daughter asked me why I got such a dangerous trap and I thought, why did I? Well, I thought it was safe. It's really not. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend this. All of our neighbors have the scissors' type traps that look like bear traps. Those are scary. I thought this would be safer, but you could lose a finger setting this thing and it didn't work. To those who claim you have to be patient and wait weeks--that's not true at all. ALL of my neighbors had a mole within hours of setting the scissor's type traps. But they also dug up the hole, laid the trap, put a bucket over the top so it was dark, and waited. I don't have the patience for that so I guess I'll try the sonic ones next. I've uploaded three photos so you can see the trap, the box, the instructions, and the lever I'm talking about. The instructions really aren't clear at all. I had to watch several videos on YouTube.

Really hard to set - took quite an amount of time and strength to learn how to set this trap. Almost impossible to tell the tension on the trigger. When it didn't go off for several days - I could tell the hole was cleared by the mole so I tried to trip the trigger and had to use significant force - the mole was never going to push that hard against it. After 5 sets - I have not caught the mole - the hole has always been cleared or re-routed around the device or deeper. It's a daily use tunnel. I compress the tunnel and within a day it's fluffed up and you can easily push a stick through and feel the cavity of the tunnel - but it hasn't set off the trap. Could be that my soil is too soft? Regardless - tons of videos showing this thing catching moles but I've had no luck. The ground in the videos looks more clay and cracked than my forest dirt here in the mountains. My tunnels are also deeper I think - not right up on the surface. Not saying this doesn't work - just saying I it's not nearly as easy to set and use. And it's not as effective as the video claims.

Reviews said it was difficult to set. Once I watched a YT video of how its set, it was simple with only minor effort for 1 person. At first, I couldnt get the arm to stay in place against the trigger plate. After watching the video, I figured out it was bc I was placing it in a hole (where I pushed soil back down) but there wasnt enough room around it for the trigger plate to lay loose and flat. I dug the sides out a little, placed the center of the trap over the mole's hole, and it set easily, with the arm staying in place. my soil is a mix of dirt and clay but the soil is loose below the trap due to the mole digging. I used a rubber mallot to get the trap down the last 1/2 inch but then moved the pull arm up and down a few times so it would move smoothly through the soil when released. Soil does not need to be hard for it to stay in place, it just needs to be flat. Remove most of the loose soil from the mound. Find the small hole the mole made. push soil back into the hole with a spade. This gives the mole a reason to push soil back out and trigger the trap. Dont push the trap so far down that the trigger plate cant move. The trigger plate should be just above the soil level and free of soil around it. Once its set, if the stakes were pulled a little out of the soil, gently push it back down. Ill change my stars up or down depending on if it actually kills the mole.

I personally did not like these. I didn't catch a mole they tripped but no mole.

I've had a victor mole trap for about 10 years. It's been a good product. However the one I recently bought is no where near as good as the old one. It is made of much thinner metal. The spikes are hollow. They've changed the shape of the frame and it is much more difficult to arm the trap. In the attached picture, the one on the left is the 10 year old trap. The one on the right is a couple months old. I would not buy another one. I'll keep this one, though it has not killed one yet.

I saw modification potential for this trap, before buying. Trap as built ejected into the air with first release of spikes. This may work for hard soil with mole tunnels near the surface, but for healthy lawns that have moisture the will not work as sold. Many problems with the design. First: the holding spikes are 11ga flat spike that penetrate the soil about 4". Second, the puncture spike will penetrate the soil at about 2.5", very shallow tunnels. Third, the entire main frame is made of 11ga metal, and the main spike platform is begging to come off in the very near future. Last, the Holding, 4" spikes are positioned so close to kill platform that there is no room for error when setting the trap, if so, your holding spike will be in the mole tunnel. Solutions: To make these traps effective, you will need welded on modification for easiest corrections. I used 11ga 2" space plates at eat holding spike, then welded on 1/2" rebar at each 2" space tab plate. I allowed for 7" soil penetration. Then welded stand offs at the 7" level and a cross member to complete a ridged trap. This is just one solution, but a solution will be needed for majority of applications. My solution no allows me to drive the trap into the soil with a hammer if needed. Remember, the set mechanism will shorten the spike kill depth to about 2.5" because of design. Last thing, Not all good reviews are written by real users of this trap. Good luck if you buy this trap, You will need it.

This thing is a God-send for me. I am mechanically minded and I read the reviews of folks having some problems with this. When I got it I could see how the instructions may be a little short. Below I will explain how to set it in detail (from my perspective). THE PROBLEM: I probably had 60 mole tunnels crisscrossing my yard, tearing it up and it was driving me crazy! I tried poisonous gas and over the counter solid poisons for moles and my professional pest control people gave me something stronger to put in the tunnels....nothing worked. I spent about 40 minutes driving over and flattening all the tunnels and then the next day watched about a 30-yard tunnel appear! I tried spearing the bugger but didn't have any luck with that. My neighbor told me about this type of trap so I ordered it. It arrived after dark and I went out with a flashlight to set it for the first time. HOW IT WORKS AND HOW TO SET: 1st flatten all your tunnels and then look the next day for a new active tunnel. You can flatten them by stepping on them with the back of a hoe or do like I did and drive over them the wheel of a car or a riding lawn mower. 2nd – once you identify the active tunnel find a narrow part of the tunnel and flatten the roof slightly with with shoe or the fist of your hand (thumb depression in instructions is too narrow, I think the depression needs to be as wide as the firing plate). This is where the firing plate will sit and when the mole tries to repair his slightly flattened tunnel he will push up on the firing plate and fire the mechanism. 3rd.Take the two WIDEST spikes of the contraption and straddle the tunnel where you made the depression. Push the entire mechanism down with the wide spikes going into solid earth on either side of the tunnel until the firing plate sets on top of the depression in the tunnel. These wide spikes will hold the trap down when it fires. 4th – hold the trap down while pulling up and down a couple of times on the top handle that has a spring. This will pull the kill spikes up and down through the tunnel clearing a travel path. 5th – Now it’s time to set: (some of the reviewers had trouble setting it and I am convinced that it is because the firing plate was too tight against the top of the tunnel…I almost always had to pull up about an eighth of an inch on the entire trap to loosen the pressure on the firing plate when setting it…..but not so much that the kill spikes would not reach their depth and target) hold the trap down and pull up on the top handle until the notch in the holding lever holds the plate with the spikes up in the air…adjust the depth of the whole trap as described above until it stays. MY GREAT RESULTS: My trap arrived after dark and I went out with a flashlight an set it as described above. I went to dinner and when I came back and it had sprung. I set it again and went to bed. The next day it had NOT sprung again but after several days I had NO NEW TUNNELS. I had a similar experience in the back yard with a tunnel. It sprung within a few hours but after setting it again it never sprung again. The tunnels stopped. I am so happy to find something that actually worked!!!!! Buy it and enjoy!

Une seule taupe peut facilement détruire 1000 m2 de pelouse, il faut donc agir dès les premiers signes d'activité. Si on laisse les taupes tranquilles, elles creuseront un réseau de tunnels qui sera réoccupé en permanence par d'autres taupes. Ce produit est efficace, comme laisse imaginer sa forme "médiévale" mais seulement pour les galléries de surface dites "de chasse". Pour les galléries profondes, on a besoin d'une piège classique du type "ciseaux". Bref, il convient d'acheter les deux types de piège, et surtout bien apprendre à s'en servir. En effet les pièges à taupes c'est un peu un art.

ottimo

Muy eficaces contra plagas

Not easy to set but should work well if a mole surfaces beneath it.

POCO SENSIBILE, difficile da innescare e praticamente è impossibile che scatti. Nessuna cattura. ARTICOLO POCO UTILE REALIZZATO MOLTO MALE