Brey-Krause Heavy Duty Curved Shower Rod -Bright Stainless Finish

Have purchased and installed two of these shower rods. The 2nd was easier and quicker; experience helps. The rods were ordered at different times. The first rod arrived in a damaged box. When opened I found only the rod; no end pieces or flanges. Communication with the seller was easy and the missing parts along with a ‘technical data sheet’ were shipped immediately. The 2nd rod arrived with all parts but no ‘technical data sheet’ or instructions. Our shower openings are 60” so was not concerned about the fit (length). Biggest issue was measuring to ensure a level rod after installation. Measure carefully! Ceiling down, floor up, and tub up (our situation). Using the flanges as a template and a level to ensure vertical alignment of flange screws (not provided), set the four anchor & screws (two each side) in the walls. Don’t tighten screws yet. Now slide the flange covers and end pieces onto the rod (don’t tighten set screws yet). Lift the assembly and hang over the top screw at each end. Now you can easily align the rod over the bottom screw at each end. Tighten all four wall screws then the set screws. I used #8 screws into plastic screw-in receptacles for wall board (see at top on technical data sheet.) As others have said, this bar is strong and the fastening arrangement doesn’t allow any give. Would buy it yet again if we had another bath!Have attached a photo of the technical data sheet received with the follow-on to my 1st order.

I read all the reviews. I made templates. I spent a week thinking of a game plan. And I still had trouble installing this dang thing. You need to bring a couple buckets of patience with you, but once installed, it lives up to expectations. I finally figured out I needed to do a few things: 1) switch the end caps, I had them on the wrong ends so they wouldn't lay flat against the wall; 2) put the end caps on and use a small piece of duct tape to hold them in place while you try to install. That little cap screw just laughs at you and does nothing; 3) I put an extra hole in the wall a few inches above where I wanted to hang the rod, then put in a big hook, then used rope on both ends to hold it up on both ends. At first this just made it easier to cuss at the dang thing, then I finally figured out the caps were on the wrong ends; 4) only put the TOP screw in, then when you have it in place, put the bottom screw in; 5) used two inch screws to get through the dry wall and deep enough into the stud; and 6) use washers between the screw and the flange, otherwise I was afraid it would turn and slip out of the hole. I'm going to touch up the paint after I get the shower curtains, can't wait until they come in, but attached is a photo of what it looks like right now. Like I said, just a few things. My family is tough on shower curtain rods so all this is worth it. This is the sturdiest shower curtain rod I've installed and I'm pretty sure it will last a long time and it looks good, otherwise I would have given this three stars. All in all, once I started, it only took about an hour to hang it.

The ends of the rod have a diameter that is too large for the shower curtain holder. That means you can't get the end of the shower curtain within about 1 -1.5 inches of the walls at the top. I could probably bend our holders out but didn't do it. As long as your shower curtain has some of the magnets in it then it should not be an issue. It has not caused any water to leak from the shower so I gave it five stars.

Don't get me wrong, tis is a good shower rod. It's built like a tank. After messing with the spring loaded rods that fall down, decided to try this one. You could do chin ups on this thing (slightly exaggerated, but it's solid). I will mention that the install is no slam dunk. It comes with no instructions, therefore I offer the following. Measure the distance between the two walls you wish to mount the rod. Push the ends all the way on the end of the rod (loosen the set screw first), rotate the such that they are properly oriented and measure from flange to flange. if it's shorter than your opening you're good to go. My opening width was such that I had to trim about 3/8" inch off each end; I used a Dremel and cutoff wheel. Get an idea where you want the bar to be mounted and created a pilot hole for the top screw. on both ends. Measure well from the ceiling down to make sure you're level. Put the two flange covers on the rod then the two end flanges properly oriented. It's nice to have a helper for the next step - hold the bar, ends and flanges up to the wall and install the top screw on one end. Switch ends and install the top screw on the other - do not tighten. Now, you'll probably find that to get the curtain rod level and square. you'll have to slightly twist the end flanges (they will not be square/straight up and down). That's OK, since the round flange covers hide the base plates. As noted in other reviews, they do not weld the flange to the tube end perfected square; close, but not perfect (this is the biggest problem with the unit). When it looks right, make a pilot holes for the bottom screws (drill thru the flange hole), add screw and tighten them all up. Next tighten the set screws. Oh, and by the way, they don't provide any mounting screws. In my case, they was wood directly behind the drywall so regular screws were fine. If your wall is hollow you'll need to adjust this process.