C4 Power Filter, Fish Tank Filter for Aquariums up to 70 Gal.

I have the c4. It's great and I have been in the hobby for over 30 years. I am using it on a 20 gallon tank. You can never have too much flow rate. To slow the turbulence I use a Fluval Edge prefilter, the flow adjuster and an aquaclear 50 foam sponge at the water output. Let me comment on a few negatives people have written about this filter. 1) The water in my tank is crystal clear and as Jack Nicholson and Tom Cruise said in "A Few Good Men" ...."It's that simple." "Are we clear?" "Yes, sir." "ARE WE CLEAR!?" "Crystal" ..... LOL,love that movie. To those who said the water is cloudy, yes, it was at first. I think it was because of the C nodes. You need to either rinse it clear for hours before using it or just let the filter do it in the tank. It took about 2-3 days to clear up but once it did, the water in my tank is crystal clear. I have been running it for 2 weeks and without the charcoal. I replace it with the aquaclear Biomax to increase the biological media. The Biomax and C nodes' fine powder dust clouded the water but like I said, it's clear crystal clear now. Just let the filter do it's job and the water will be crystal clear in a couple of days. 2) My filter is so quiet that you don't know it's on. What I did was apply some vaseline onto the impeller shaft and into the hole of the impeller. I did this without hearing if it needed to or not. I just applied it before I used it. The motor has NO noise at all and the lid does not rattle. The only thing you hear is the water cascading out of the filter. 3) The self priming issue is that you need to fill the filter box with water before you start it. Once it is filled with water, it will self primes when you plug it in. It will take about a minute to self prime as it sucks up the water through the siphon tube. To help the self prime and make it more efficient, I clogged the hole on top of the U intake tube. Now when you unplug the filter and replug it it starts right up without it needing to refill (self prime) the intake tube. If you do a water change and the water in the tank falls just above the bottom of the U intake tube inside the filter box you will need to refill the filter box otherwise it won't self prime. So add water into the box when you refill your tank and when you replug your filter, it will self prime. 4) Try to buy the larger filter (C4) if you can. You can always change the impeller to the smaller impeller if you feel the flow it too much or modify it like I did with prefilter sponge and aquaclear 50 foam. With the bigger filter, it'll clean more and hold more beneficial bateria. And if and when you upgrade your tank, you won't need to buy a new filter. The impellers for the fluval C series and aquaclear are the same. Matter of fact, the motors are the same for all fluval C series and aquaclear except for the 110 model. It's the impeller that determines the flow rate and they are interchangeable between models and sizes except the 110. All the positives you've read about this filter is true. It's easy to clean, the red tab that notifies you that your filter foam needs cleaning is great; you are not stuck with any proprietary media which usually cost a lot more to replace; the foam pad and bio media DO NOT need to be replaced - just rinse the foam pad or bio media in used or dechlorinated water. They should last for several years. If you use activated carbon/charcoal which I don't, you'll need to replace them every so often depending on your tank load. You can buy any brand of activated carbon and put it into a nylon bag and it's save you money. Try to use a prefilter. It's attached to the bottom of the intake tube. It helps to catch the debris and uneaten food before it goes to the foam pad keeping it cleaner. It'll also increase your beneficial bacteria load and your fish will love to peck on it for the uneaten food. The only thing is that you'll need to rinse it once in a while or it will clog up completely and slow the filter down to a trickle. Just rinse it when you do your water change. Hope this helps.....may your fishes be happy and healthy Update: Feb 22, 2013. The filter is still going strong. The reading of the water has been 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5 nitrate with weekly water changes. It would probably be the same with a water change every other week. And this is in a very overstocked aquarium. The only thing I need to do is rinsed the prefilter with every water change or it will clog up and restrict the water flow to a trickle and the water to the trickle part of the filter will not get any water. That's how good the prefilter is in catching the debris and keeping the foam and biomax clean. The red tab pop up device has never moved and when I check the foam it is very clean but I do rinsed the foam every 3 months and LIGHTLY rinse/shake the biomax every 6 months in used aquarium water. DO NOT buy NEW foam or biomax. Just rinse them. They will last several years if not forever especially if you use a prefilter and the prefilter does not need to be changed just rinsed also. I had to clean the impeller just recently since it wouldn't start back up/spin. It had a lot of slime. I just rinsed off the slime from the impeller and shaft and reapplied some vaseline and it was of and running like new. The water is crystal clear also. Update: Jan 13, 2015. The filter is still going strong. Still quiet as when I first bought it. I have upgraded my tank to 25 gallons and it's still working like a charm. I have not bought any replacements, just rinsed the prefilters, pads, biomax, c nodes and impeller. My readings are still 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5 nitrate and I'm changing my water once a month and sometimes once every two months (getting lazy). This is a great filter. Updated.... Feb 22, 2016. The filter is till going strong. Quiet as when it was new. I did replace the form as it was wearing down from squeezing it when I clean it. All the bio medias are still in good and hasn't broken down. M water reading are the same. Changing water less frequent. Getting lazy because of the good water quality from the filter but not good for the fish which needs the minerals from new water and removal of nitrates. Update.....2/6/2019. The filter is still going strong. Have not replaced any parts except for the foam that i mentioned before. The motor is still quiet and pumping like new. The biomedia are still intach and have not broken down. I have not been as diligent in chaging the water as before. Been changing the water about every three months and the numbers still reading 0,0,5. Upgrading the biomedia and using the C4 will do wonders for your aquarium and ease maintenance care.

I purchased this filter a month ago. It is installed on a Marineland 60 gal. cube. The aquarium is a Corner- Flo and already has a Fluval 360 installed. The water in the tank was not as crystal as I would like and I think the Corner_Flo option may be impeding the canister a bit. The tank has African Peacocks and Haps in it. They do make a mess. Not wanting to put another canister in the already crowded cabinet. I opted for an HOB filter. I wanted one that was simple to clean and maintain. I looked at the AC's, Fluval C series and the Eheim Liberty series. This one fit the bill for me. All three filters can use "Bulk Media". A requirement for me. (hate cart's and premade foams $$$$$$) Of the original media I only used the the white foam and polyester pad filter and the small pad on the wet dry filter. It took about a week before the main filter pad was starting to clog (red indicator floating) I rinsed it and it lasted about another week. The poly pad on the back is the culprit and they do make the foam with out it. But for me I just decided to toss it and I cut some blue bonded filter material and installed it.. I also put polyester floss in where the carbon would go as I do not use carbon. In the wet dry bio holder. I put Seachem Matrix instead of the ceramic nodes.. Also many reviews on the web state that they do not use the little white pad on top of the wet dry filter. Bad move as the water that comes from the spout has not actually been through the main filter. It is tank water straight from the pump and the debris will clog your bio media. I plan to put some thin foam or polyester there when the original is bad. Overall this filter has been good. The water is much clearer now. The output is designed so that you do not get the "water noise" that some HOB's have. (Unless you let your water level drop a ways.) The filter has some noise on start up. It has started to diminish as it runs (slime build up in the pump). I did some research on this and it is common. If the amount of noise (what little there is, way less than an air pump) is unacceptable, the application of vaseline or silicone grease to the impeller shaft usually fixes the problem. This filter also has a wide resting area for the tank brim. A good deal for a tank with a frame but not so good with a frameless tank. The problem is in the leveler. The design of the leveler is the same as the AC's. Both are made by Hagen. The leveler is a snug fit in its hole. However with a frameless tank the tallest leg must be used in order to level the filter. The problem is that if the leg is not completely square with the tank surface. Any pressure applied to the filter during maintenance causes the leveler to "cam or twist". As the filter is heavy when full of water it moves pretty abruptly when this happens. One could use a block of some sort between the tank and leveler so that a shorter leg could be used which would stop the twisting issue. All in all I like this filter. Have already purchased another and would recommend it .

I really wanted to like this filter but one major issue is driving me nuts. The sheer noise coming from this thing is noticeable and I don't know what's the fix for it. I've tried putting the vaseline trick on the impeller shaft but that didn't help. It sounds like grinding coffee beans, of course not as loud but definitely noticeable. In my video, you can hear it louder than the falling water. This filter is more expensive than the AquaClear series because it offers filters that we don't usually see. 3 compartments really let you pick and choose your forms of filtration. The drip tray for the wet/dry media is one of the coolest things and I believe is entirely unique. Flowrate is quite nice with a nice wide spread (C3). Controlled flowrate and extendable suction tube are nice features too. I'm hoping the sound goes away after a few days but at this point, it remains a 3 star. FYI, item was packaged very nicely with bubble and was sealed. A few cosmetic scratches on the plastic on the inside but who cares about that. It seems the sound issue is poor impeller design, I don't think it was from damage. Others have also noted the noise. Seems to be a luck of the draw. Update 9/23/2016: Ordered a replacement and was hoping it would fix the issue. However, the second one was just as loud as the first. The second however, was scratched up badly inside. It seems that the crumbs and grit from the bio nodes sanded down lots of the flat areas on the filter. They should've sealed it better or sealed the box that it came in. Instead, the crumbs were like sand grinding various areas during shipping and other kinds of movement. I had really high hopes for the filter.. will see if another week the sound improves. Update 9/26/16: Replacement has the same issue. I didn't even set it up, just swapped out the motor and the same grinding persists. 2 defective ones in a row, I'm not going to invest more time trying to get a good one. A great filter design, quality plastics and parts but with the worst motor I've ever heard.

My journey into aquatics started with the "winning" of two goldfish at the fair. Thinking that taking care of goldfish was easy, I was very unaware of what I was in for, starting with a tank that was too small (5 gallon tank)(well you know the story). I got this power filter (off of Amazon - Great price) to help control the ammonia, and the unclear water that the other filters that I owned could not handle. Being that goldfish are decent swimmers, the low setting on this power filter did not make too powerful of a current for the fish. However, I would not attempt to use this filter for weaker swimmers or smaller fish in such a small tank. It is suggested that the water in the tank by cycled at least 5-6 times. At the low setting the Gallons Per Hour(gph) for this filter is 62 (62gph / 5 gallon(Tank Size) = 12.4 times for this tank.) I have since moved the fish to a 29 gallon tank (119 gph(Max) / 29 Gallon = 4.1 times for this tank), and the filter is still performing well. If I had one issue with the Fluval C series, it is that it is not self priming, which is a problem for people who lose power a lot. To get around this issue I run this filter in tandem with the Marina i25 (internal filter), which gives me a great backup in case of short power outages and helps me to meet the suggested filtering times with the larger tank. This filter has five stages (2 mechanical, 1 chemical and 2 biological filtration) whereas most only have three. This is a very important function for maintaining the filter media. Establishing the bio-filter on an aquarium is time consuming and tedious process so that once it is done you do not want to have to do it again, but maintain what you have. Although there are products available that help (Tetra Safe Start, Seachem Stability, or Nutrafin Cycle), it still takes time to do, so you ideally never want to use a power filter that does not have at least two biological media. The biological filtration is something that is very important in a filter for keeping beneficial bacteria and not having your tank run through a Mini-cycle each time you change a filter (main problem with great filters such as the Marina I25 - great filter but when you change the filter you lose the biological filtration). All filter media will eventually come to a point where it needs to be changed because it gets clogged or loses performance.) Another feature of this filter is that you are not tied to the media that Fluval makes, you can also add media that you normally add to a canister. For example I like Sechem Purigen and Matrix with this filter. I can make my own chemical filtration bags and regenerate them (save money), and use premium Bio-Filter medium such as the recommended Fluval c-nodes or my favorite Seachem Matrix. This alone is an awesome feature of this HOB filter over others. For a filter at this price, the design is well thought out and it shows with it's performance.

This filter is currently running on a 20 gallon long tank. It is getting the job done, but so was the Whisper that it replaced. The health of your tank will be mostly affected by your feeding habits and maintenance routine, more so than which brand of power filter that you have running. I made the switch because the Whisper cartridge can only hold a small amount of activated carbon. The tank has two large pieces of mopani wood that are constantly releasing tannins in the water. I needed a power filter that has the ability to hold a lot of carbon. That narrowed the choice down to the Fluval C2 and the Marineland Emperor. The Emperors are large filters with high water flow. I wanted a slower rate of flow than the smallest Emperor can provide. That was the deciding factor. How good is this filter? I would say that it is just as effective as any power filter from a reputable manufacturer. The purchase price is a bit higher than most other brands, however. Is it worth it? Maybe. Let us compare this with the Aquaclear line from Hagen. Both have designs that allow for a lot of water by-pass. This is typical of power filters and is by design to compensate for clogged filter media. The power filter's main advantages are lower purchase price, ease of set up, and ease of maintenance when compared to a canister filter. The disadvantages are inefficiency (lots of water by-pass) and limited space for chemical media. The most unusual feature of this power filter is the trickle box. This box holds ceramic biological media above the water line. The design trickles water through the ceramic media, above the water level. Having the media above the water allows the bacteria more access to oxygen. Theoretically, this should allow this filter to decompose ammonia much faster than most of its competitors. The Aquaclears also use ceramic biological media, but below the water level. The idea is that having the bio media above the water allows the system to function like a Wet-Dry filter. This is not a new idea. Perhaps the best implementation of this concept in a power filter design was the old Tetra Second Nature WDF 3000/4000. Unfortunately, Tetra has chosen to discontinue that excellent filter design many years ago. The Marineland bio-wheel is another design that uses the Wet-Dry concept. If you have a high biological load in your tank, then perhaps the added efficiency of this design's bio-filtration might be worth it. The C2 will hold more carbon than the Whisper. Carbon capacity is on par with the Aquaclear. Unfortunately, I could not find an equivalent-sized Emperor. The smallest Emperor is rated at 280 gph. This one is less than half that amount. As far as mechanical filtration, this one allows for more by-pass than the Whisper. Yes, the C2 has a more substantial dual-density mechanical pad, but it also has a feature that allows the water to go around the pad. Actually, the water that is sent to the trickle box is unfiltered. Hence, it is a good idea to always use the bio-screen on top of the trickle box. The quality is similar to the Aquaclear line. No better, no worse. Circulation is approximately equal to that of the Aquaclear 20. The red removable baskets allow you to change the filter's media very easily. It is just as quiet, or just as noisy, as an Aquaclear. Depending on whether you consider the AQ to be loud or silent. Each of us have our own idea of what we consider loud. Which filter is a better choice? The Aquaclear will save you money in the long run, and you have more flexibility because of the larger media box. The C2 will require that you replace the dual-density mechanical filter pad regularly. If your 20 gallon tank is overstocked, then perhaps the additional bio-filtration efficiency of the C2 would be worth it to you. The Aquaclear would be a more economical choice, if your tank is not overstocked and if you do not feed heavily. If you have a 30 gallon tank, my advice would be to choose the Emperor 280. When you start getting to the larger size tanks that can handle high water circulation, the Emperor becomes the better choice. Less water by-pass. The bio-wheel design is very reliable and the Emperors come with an extra media basket for your carbon. The water that is sent to the bio-wheel is also pre-filtered and is transported by a secondary pump. There is a place in the market for the Fluval C2. For the person who has a small tank, who wants to have trickle filter capability, this is a good choice. If you have a nano tank and would like to upgrade your power filter, the C2 is a good choice. It also holds more carbon than most comparably-sized power filter. For bigger tanks (30 gallons and up), I would recommend the Emperor line. Please keep in mind that your feeding habits will have a more profound effect on water quality than your choice of power filter. Fish can eat very little and do well. A medium-sized swordtail can be maintained on five flakes of Tetramin daily, for example. Naturally, if you are more concerned with maximum rate of growth, then you will have to feed a lot more. In that case you should also be prepared to change the water more often or make do with a smaller number of fish per tank. The trickle filter on the C2 may help decompose ammonia faster than an equivalent Aquaclear but you will still have nitrates to contend with. We've all overstocked and overfed before. It happens. The C2 might give you a little bit more flexibility in terms of stocking levels than an Aquaclear. I cannot say for sure because I am not able to test this out. I have both models along with the Whisper, but I cannot create a controlled situation in which to do a test. I just do not have the facility to do that. Nor the knowledge. But if you have the extra cash and if you are willing to spend a little bit more on replacement filter media, the Fluval C2 would be a better pick than the equivalent Aquaclear. It is at least as good in mechanical and in chemical filtration. The biological filtration is theoretically superior. I say give it a try.

The title really says it all ... this is an absolutely awesome HOB filter. While they do advertise "5 stages of filtration" this is actually customizable ... you can use different mediums for different stages. For example, you can use only coarse mechanical ... for those times when you have a lot of big gunk to get out of the water. Or you can use carbon + active ammonia removal ... or just active ammonia removal. Cleaning and replacing individual stages is a piece of cake ... they all have separate compartments. Need to treat an outbreak? Just remove the carbon and keep the rest in place. Or replace the carbon with the ammonia removal ... which you can also do if you have an ammonia spike. For the chemical stage, you can also get filter bags and bulk carbon or ammonia remover ... or whatever you want. Too many of the filters currently on the market don't give you this flexibility; the Aqueon filter that this replaced had a combination mechanical/carbon filter that was all-or-nothing and it didn't have anywhere near the area for the biological filtration that the Fluval has. The cleaning indicator for the mechanical filtration works very well and helps you worry less about the schedule for rinsing the mechanical filter and enjoy your fish more. The fact that they encourage you to rinse, rather that constantly replace, says a lot about the quality of the filter. One note ... do not ever replace the C-nodes. These are the ceramic "stars" that are the core of the bio filter and they work very well to provide an environment that grows the beneficial bacteria that you need for the nitrogen cycle. Yes, they will get nasty and covered in slime. Yes, you will be tempted to clean or replace them. The directions say to only replace half at a time but do not replace them ... ever. That nasty slime is the core of your biological filter that removes deadly ammonia and nitrites. Rinse the second level pad and replace it, say, once a year when it starts falling apart. Rinse the mechanical filter as needed and replace the mechanical and carbon once every three months or so ... no more. And don't replace them at the same time. This filter may be more expensive than some of the alternatives but, long term, it is not only more efficient but far less expensive to operate. When adding this to an existing, established tank either run it in parallel with the existing filter until the bacteria gets established in the new filter or use Tetra SafeStart to kick-start the bio-filter. Finally, the ability to cut the flow is very useful when feeding. I will cut the flow when feeding to minimize the food that gets thrown immediately to the bottom and, when the fish are done eating, I will set it back to full flow.

I really love this HOB filter. Some may argue but I think this is the upgraded Aquaclear. They use the same motors as the Aquaclears and have redesigned the internals as well as the external look of the filter. They really thought this HOB filter design thorougly. It is much sleeker and attractive than the older Aquaclears as you can obviously see, but works as well or better in my opinion. Everything is designed with ease of maintenance and performance in mind. To clean it is incredibly easy. Each compartment of filtration is seperate and can be taken out easily as needed for maintenace. You don't even have to turn off the filter to maintain it. If you want to clean the mechanical sponge (the only thing I clean really) it's as simple as pulling up the back compartment which is seperate from the other compartments. Unlike the Aquaclear which you have to take out everything on top of the sponge first to get to the sponge which needs the most frequent rinsings. This makes for much easier regular maintenance than the Aquaclear. The mechanical filtration on this filter is also upgraded from the Aquaclears. The sponge has a material similar to the Aquaclear's sponge but now also has a tweak/improvment made to catch the tiny particles that float around in your tank. It is a two part sponge fused together which is a coarse sponge with a material similar to polyfil batting attached into one. The mechanical filtration even has a indicator that pops up when the sponge needs rinsing. If you choose to use carbon (I don't I filled that compartment with more biomedia) you just lift out the integrated wet dry and pull out the basket that holds the carbon and replace. Drop the basket that holds the carbon back in and put the wet/dry system back on top it's super easy. Now we get to the integrated wet dry system. The wet dry system needs the least cleaning and no replacement. The only part that could use a rinse once in a while is the pad on top that keeps detrius out. Maybe once every six months to a year you could lighly rinse the biomedia in the integrated wet dry. This is what makes the system AWESOME. It is the first true integrated wet dry system on a HOB filter! It works amazingly for biological filtration and can even be used effectively to reduce nitrates with Seachems denitrate! To me this is the best and most ingenious part of this filter. The Fluval C series also has an adjustable intake tube that adjusts to any height you want without having to deal with extensions that you may have to cut to the right length or add on in specific increments. I have to add how QUIET it is. It is SILENT. Well... at first it was a little noisy. Nothing unbearable or out of the ordinary with Hagen HOB's. Though after lubing up the shaft of the impeller with a little fish safe silicone lubricant or even vaseline it is incredibly quiet. I would not consider the dependability a factor/problem as they use the same motors as Aquaclears which have a reputation for reliablility. The only complaint I have is that they don't make it in a larger size that could be comparable to the Aquaclear 110. If they made a Fluval C5 model I would be all over it! I definitely recommend this filter for all of you looking for a great (the best) smaller HOB filter on the market today. For larger tanks though I would still have to go with the Aquaclear 110 for its power. Buy it, set it up, lube the shaft (for quietness), and let it do its job. You won't regret it. There is a great and complete review on Youtube for those who need a little more convincing and are seriously looking to buy one of these awesome filters.

It's no secret that Fluval has been making some of the best quality products in the Aquarium industry for some time. I am currently running 3 tanks in my home, and they are all filtered by filters made by leading brands in the industry. However what I have had to do with those filters is constantly modify the filtration media in order to ensure that I have a good filtration system going. What I love about this product is that it finally makes all parts of the filtration system into a cartridge. I added a few more ceramics and 100 micron filter media to the basket, but that's my choice and it wasn't prompted by any real need other than my paranoia. The only thing that I say could be improved is the noise. And I will say that all Fluval products that use the AquaClear piping system have the same issue. When you move the pipe from the full to the partial feed, it creates a turbulence just after exiting the impeller that makes an unpleasant rattle that's probably due to the pipe not being alligned with the incoming water. That's not really a problem if you're running a sufficiently large tank and you can keep the volume of water being filtered at high. But other than that minor issue this is a great product and I would highly recommend to anyone as an upgrade their current filtration system. Update: Unfortunately, about 3 months into operating 3 of these, I'm unhappy to report that 1 of the 3 units I'm running has failed. After much research, I have learned that these units don't do well with sand. -a finding by others with which I will concur. The two units within my home that are being used in aquariums with rock/gravel substrate are still going strong, but the one being used with fine sand has failed, making the unit extemely loud and unusable. A replacement motor costs 2/3 the original price of the unit, so that's a non-starter. I've never had a unit from any manufacturer fail so quickly, so as you can imagine, I'm a little sceptical of their longevity. I replaced my failed C3 with a Marineland Penguin to see if it will perform a little better with the sandy substrate. I'm not saying the Fluval is a bad filter necessarily for many uses, but I'm afraid I have to change my 5-star rating due to the failure of one of my three units.

Dieser Filter läuft wie es soll. Nur der Motor ist etwas zu gut hörbar. Sonst. Gibt es nichts zu beanstanden. Strömung ist mehr als ausreichend. Würde ihn nochmal kaufen.

I bought this filter for my 40 gallon tank. It was noisy right out of the box. I tried leveling it and checked the impeller to make sure it was seated properly, but it still had a vibration and rattle. I contacted the seller and he sent me a new impeller and that fixed the problem. By the way, excellent service and very speedy, did not leave me hanging and waiting. Now on to the filter, this is one of the best hang on filters I've had in 40 some years of fish keeping, it is quiet and does a beautiful job keeping my tank sparkling clean. The 5 stage filter system is great and the filter looks awesome on the tank. I could go into lengthy details about the filter but just read the info on it, it's all true what the manufacturer says. It just does what it's supposed to do, period. It has a 2 year warranty so you can buy with peace of mind. Unlike some other filters, you can buy any and all replacement parts for this filter at reasonable prices, so chances are this filter will last you a lifetime. I have used Hagen products for 40+ years and they stand behind their products, no ifs ands or buts. So if you are looking for a filter that is (IMHO) one of, if not, the best on the market today, this is the one for you. Peace and happy fish keeping :)

For started Amazon royally messed up with this one - the item is shipped with an EU plug so bear this in mind. Disregard most reviews on here, the filter when set up correctly is near silent. English instructions are available the Fluval website but basically it’s important to fill the filter with water before turning it on. Then after the filter gets rid of any air it runs near silent and is barely noticeable. The filter looks great and all media can be replaced whilst it’s running which is a bonus. The trickle feed is brilliant and exactly what I needed for a betta aquarium which doesn’t need a lot of water flow.

Diciamo subito, che un filtro per acquario a zainetto, per quanto grosso sia non avrà mai una resa di un filtro esterno. Questo filtro a zainetto, ne ho provati altri, invece è molto equilibrato, potente, silenzioso (almeno per ora), ed ha un giro di acqua al suo interno, ottimo. Io al posto della busta del carbone attivo, ho tolto anche la capsula di plastica rossa, ho inserito a capienza i cannolicchi in calza di nylon, con al di sopra l'ovatta e sopra il suo cestellino, con gli altri cannolicchi in dotazione, per aumentare l'accumulo dei batteri buoni, che non sono mai abbastanza. Ne ho acquistati 2 per due acquari da 40 litrei l'uno, perchè mi piace che l'acqua in superfice sia adeguatamente mossa, per non creare patine oleose eventuali. Logicamente se allestissi un acquario con i Betta splendens questo filtro sarebbe troppo potente, non va bene, a tal proposito, si può regolare un minimo la potenza di uscita dell'acqua, riducendola un pochino. Con il tempo non so se diventerà rumoroso... vedremo, ma per ora sono molto soddisfatto. Consegna Ok, come sempre, servizio Prime, on TOP !

Si quieren un filtro de cascada que cumpla sin que inviertas demasiado creo que este es el recomendable, cumple bastante bien en relación calidad-precio.