Forester Chainsaw Brush Cutter Blade + File Set - 9in x 20 Teeth | Fits Most Straight Shaft Trimmers | Conversion Kit Sold Separately

Blade works amazing! Cuts extremely well and fast. Use it for what it is meant for and it won't let you down. Keep it out of the dirt and off of rock and you won't have to sharpen it often. I like to keep my saws and blades shape so I sharpen this blade after each use by hitting it a lick or two just to top it off but you don't have to do that, as it holds a edge pretty well. Small stuff it doesn't even slow it down and bigger stuff it saws through like a chain saw just be careful cause it will bite and kick back. All in all, very strong and well built blade and will definitely buy more once this one is use up completely. **Side note, definitely wear safety glasses or face shield as this thing rips and will throw chips in your face more than any blade I've ever used, it cuts so well!**

Bought an FS 131 to do yard trimming and clear underbrush in my forest. Got this blade for the brush and saplings in the overgrown areas. It's great for cutting them off low enough to clear my mower deck. As long as you have enough motor, this thing will go to town on small trees. Cuts up to 1" just like you would cut weeds. Larger ones up to 4" take deliberate effort and can kick back, but kickback on mine is mild. Kicking into a tree I dont intend to take a big chunk out of is the problem I am having mostly. Got the 2 pack because I know I'm going to push it hard, and I want a backup in case I hit something so I don't have to stop to sharpen it. The files that came with it are great, but it's still a good 30 minute job to resharpen it. I still have the guard on, but it limits what I can get at. The guard is probably coming off once I get the hang of it. Blade seems well made, heavy steel, but it gives my 36cc motor and clutch a workout spinning it up. I think it would smoke the clutch on a smaller trimmer, and break the shaft on a bent shaft trimmer. Anyway I love it, and I think it's gonna pay for itself very quickly around my place, since you can just resharpen whenever it gets dull. 1 YEAR UPDATE - This thing really got my underbrush 'under control' in no time!! I use it a couple of times a week, it's still going strong!! I haven't even used my second blade once yet, the first one is going great, the first file is still sharp too. I wore all the writing off it, but it hasn't rusted or lost any teeth on me. Some of the rivets were a little loose when I bought it, so I took a couple of hammers and set all of them good and tight the first week I had the blades. That may have something to do with not losing any teeth, or I could just be lucky. The blade is still cutting right through anything hard, still absolute crap on grass, vines, etc. Two other things I recommend here are the Stihl C26-2 speed feed head, with Oregon 69-383 .105" trimmer line (round, green) - these 3 are working out really good for me. Line strength is all about cross section, and nothing has more cross section than round line. If you're paying for those fancy shapes or 2-part line, I think you're getting robbed . . .

Use it for what its intended for and it is a Beast! I'm using this chainsaw blade to cut one to three inch sapling trees assortment of soft and Hardwood and anything in between it works perfectly now if you're trying to go above 3 inch it will do it but it takes time and it also takes a toll on the blade that's why I have a chainsaw if I'm cutting something 4 in or above but for brush clearing walking through it works pefect. I purchased mine in 2021 it is currently November 2025 the only reason I'm writing the review now because I went online to see what size file I needed to sharpen it cuz it finally has gotten dull after repeated use. But for the price of 20 plus dollars I can just purchase a brand new blade. Granted I do have the largest stihl that was made of that time which is a 133 so it spins that blade at the highest RPM I think it could ever take but it cuts through saplings like no other plus it saves on my back with a lopper or a chainsaw with hundreds of small saplings. Get it!

I am using the forester chainsaw-toothed blades to remove brush from along a fence line. I have been working with it for about 10 hours of usage, and resharpen it after each use (hourly). The stuff I am clearing amounts to blackberry brambles, wild rose and autumn olive trees, honeysuckle, and the occasional poison ivy vine. It is making the job a lot easier than what I had been working with. I had been using a flat plate with three 'wings' that smashed their way through small woody plants fairly well, but any woody thing thicker than a finger it only wore through, and at 2" thick it didn't make it through at all. This blade just rips through stuff like a chain saw would. I have cut 4" trees down with the blade. It takes a minute or two but it wins; Every time. It works best at fairly high speed when cutting through wood. Once the blade speed slows back off, power up and attack the target again. cutting stuff at ground level without bending over is a major selling point, however, to cut through a wild rose bush that is 10' high and 20' long along a fence line this will require re-angling the blade in many planes to chop your way through it and into small enough pieces what's left is mostly at ground level. The downside is if you are cutting something woody and relatively thick (1" or >) and your angle is wrong it can 'run' on you and suddenly the blade be a few feet from where it was if you hit something solid (tree) on the right side of the blade. Keep a firm grip on the shaft with both hands when using it. If I am cutting wood I use the left side of the blade (that is rotating toward me and cut on the 'far' side of the target. I wear a harness that mounts to the drive shaft and that keeps the blade at a fixed distance from me so I _think_ I am safe, but beware of the blade, it is wicked and would require a hospital visit and lots of recoup time if it hit you. It would rip a foot mostly off in a heartbeat. It will also rip right through barbed wire and cow fencing. It also can create a LOT of stuff to clean up VERY quickly which has its pros and cons. I've worn my help out more than once. It throws chips all over the place, wear long sleeves, steel-toed boots, heavy gloves, a face screen, hearing protection and eye protection - I also wear a neck gaiter to try and avoid the spatter. Keep people a good distance away to avoid throwing stuff at them. I have to resharpen frequently because I hit the ground a lot and that dulls the blade quickly, but a 3/16 round file or other chainsaw sharpening tool does the trick. I use a 3/26" sharpening cylindrical stone on a Dremel tool that works well for me. If it isnt cutting well, take the time to sharpen it... work will go much faster and safer with sharp well maintained tools. On my Stihl 131 kombi power head with a 9" forester blade, the fence line is looking better day by day (but I have a couple of miles of fence line to do... hence the serious tools to attack the problem). I am pretty confident you will like blade this assuming your string trimmer motor is hefty enough to drive it. Of course you should inspect it carefully after hitting something solid (rock, metal, etc).

I bought a cheaper blade it was half the cost of this one. Well, let's just put it this way. I ordered this one. The first one I had was this brand and it cut through everything like butter. Cheaper one did the job but no where near as easy. I like easy when it comes to heavier yard work. Would I buy it again ? Yes I already did!

Best add-on to tackle the cottonwood shoots in my backyard. Easy to install and maintain. It just flies through them quickly.

My wife sold my Chainsaw cause I am getting up in years. No I don't have a lot to cut But (Big but), I have now 3 (Three) times I have needed one. Broken limbs and frozen Fruit Tree. I saw this while surfing and decided to give it a try. (Excuse My French but) Damit!. I have cut a Loquat tree that froze. A Leyland Cypress that died and blew out of the ground. Some Fig Tree limbs that died, and so on. This unit Cuts Them All! One of the best purchases I have made in a couple of years. And I can sharpen the chainsaw blades cause I always have.

I have read reviews of this product, other simlilar products and Stihl branded products. I personally haven't tried the other similar products at this time but it is in my budget and on my agenda to do so in the very near future. First of all, I installed the blade on a Stihl FS90R with a fresh tune up, running ethanol free gas (just so you know what I'm not working with an underpowered machine) I bought 6+ acres of land that i'm looking to clear a bunch of scattered small (2-4" diameter) trees. maybe 100-200 trees total. First of all, the direction arrows on the blade I received were pointed in the wrong direction. Looking at the cutting teeth one SHOULD easily be able to figure out which was to install it....The first impression of this blade besides the direction arrows are wrong is that it is a sharp meaty blade. After cranking it up and doing a test run at my house is that this thing cuts easily; now on to the real stuff. When brand new, the blade cuts like a beast, easily slicing through what i imagine to be 2-3" diameter trees like a knife through hot butter, but as time goes on, and numerous trees are cut, more time is required to cut through these trees. Still, it cuts through trees 1-2 inches with ease and now the 2-3" diameter stuff takes a few stabs to get it cut. After the first tank (maybe 45minutes to 1 hour), i resharpened the blade. This was done with the included file. My second day on my tree cutting adventure yielded more trees which were cut easily, but not like it did when it was new. I have even cut trees 4-5" in diameter with this thing (the limiting factor being the hardware in the way). However, after approximately 2 hours of use, and a repeated resharpening, I have noticed 6 of 20 teeth are broken or damaged on this beast. This is a nice product if you don't need to use it long term or won't be too aggressive with it, but I haven't been wowed like I imagined. If you're cutting lots of trees, or trying to get close to the ground, or need to cut for long periods of time, I'd probably buy a backup blade. Personally, I'm going to try a different blade and won't be buying another at this time. Maybe I just have unrealistic expectations of this blade. However, for $16 and getting as many trees cut as I did, I can't complain.

I live in a wooded forest and these blades have been effective in tackling all the vines and bramble on our property. I have yet needed to have to sharpen the blades after 3 months of use.

this is a fantastic product. fit perfectly on my stihl fs38 and cuts trees as big as 4 inches like butter. very sharp teeth. if you know to sharp a chainsaw, you will know to sharp this blade.

If you have a straight shaft trimmer and do a lot of heavy brushcutting this blade is a must. The regular circular blades struggled with anything over 1 cm in diameter, while I've taken down trees up to 7 cm in diameter with this one. -->Make sure you have a straight shaft trimmer -- if you put this on a curved shaft cable drive machine, it will destroy the shaft!

Works well

this blade cut fast and clean- approx 3 inch diameter- it fit my troybilt straight shaft brush trimmer- no bushing needed to fit on shaft- bought the 7 inch blade and now going to buy the 9 inch for larger trees