SKR V1.4 Turbo Control Board 32bit for 3D Printer Compatible with TFT35 E3 V3.0.1/TFT70 Touch Screen Support TMC2209/TMC2208/TMC5160/TMC2130 for Most FDM 3D Printer (with 5*TMC2209)

I recently decided to upgrade my Creality Ender 3 to use the SKR 1.4 with TMC 2209 steppers. (Side note, you will need to find an alternative case to use this on an Ender 3, as the stock case doesn't line up- I found one on Thingiverse). About the upgrade process: If you have never upgraded your main board before, I recommend checking out some 3d printing videos on youtube. Teaching Tech has some good ones. You may need to change connectors and potentially solder wires together in order to upgrade your board depending on your situation. In the case of the Ender 3 main board, it uses 2 pin end stops, and this board uses 3 pin. I created a simple adapter cable. Beyond that, just about everything was a 1-1 connection from the old board to the new one. I cut off one of the pins on the TMC 2209 driver, because I am not using stall guard but instead using the optical endstops. This is explained very well in the BTT SKR 1.3 / 1.4 manual. After you get everything set up and connected, you also need to configure firmware. I am very familiar doing this (having done it on several 3d printers) but many folks struggle more here than the hardware. If you have trouble here, Youtube is also a good resource and check out videos from Chris Riley (TMC2209 install). Chris's Basement. You'll need to make a few changes to the Configuration.h and the Configuration_Adv.h for your specific layout. The performance is really good on this board, and the printer is super quiet as you can see in the video. It's a great upgrade and can be done in a few hours if you know what you are doing.

All in all have 4 printers with this card in them when you receive a good card that the SD reader works they are great but getting a card that works is getting impossible the one from this order would not read a sd card, the replacement that was sent would not read a sd card. The quality control of this company is terrible a simple Google search will tell you this is a on going problem but the manufacturer has refused to address this problem. This will be the last skr board I ever purchase to get the 4 printers I have with them installed took at least 8 cards to find 4 that worked . Hopefully others will do the same and make the company take responsibility for their quality problem And the options they give you to rate stars on is warmth, sheerness and thickness now you tell me if they don't know that there are problems with their cards why not let us rate arrived operational, proper working order and overall quality of product

Wanted to go true dual Z on my modded Ender 3 v2, with Ender Extender 300xl, Sprite Pro, Klipper, CR Touch, etc. setup. Finding the pins for Klipper, voltages for steppers, and general info on the SKR 1.4 Turbo in 2024 was easy, once I knew what to search for. Had a 4.2.2 non silent board. This is much quieter but seems slower to respond to command in UART mode vs the standalone mode on the Creality board, home and bed mesh commands seems to take a second or 2 to start compared, but I was able to get much faster, smoother, quieter movement with this.

I'll get one thing out of the way right now: if you are NOT an advanced user with experience editing Arduino code (or similar), this is NOT the kit for you. It does not come with an up to date version of Marlin, so you're best served by downloading Marlin 2.x straight from Github and making the required configuration to the firmware yourself. A number of users have done this and posted instructions, so I will no go into details on that here. However, once you have the firmware configured and installed, this is an amazing board. The CPU is fast and produces very smooth and clean prints, there is ample memory for the most advanced Marlin configurations, and the TMC2209 drivers are extremely quiet. With this board, you can enable all of the advanced features such as sensorless homing, BLtouch/bed leveling sensors, power loss recovery (with accessory), linear advance, and many more. This is a board for an experienced 3d printer operator who isn't afraid of getting deep into the firmware to make changes. You will need to have a good understanding of Marlin to make this work well for you; copying someone else's configuration is not likely going to give you good results unless all of your parts and upgrades are exactly the same. It's absolutely worth the time-investment to learn; my prints have never been cleaner.

Not for the novice, but experienced users should be ok. I ordered this board and dove down the rabbit hole of setting up the Marlin firmware, v2.0.9. I set up Visual Studio Code, pulled the latest released firmware and proceeded to update the configuration files - about 8000 lines of code. I used the stock Creality LCD and added a BLTouch to the mix. By the time the board arrived, 2 days later, I had a compiled version on my laptop. I loaded the firmware, added the drivers, configured the jumpers and wired it up. I was blown away that it worked fine and was ready for calibration right away (PID on hotend and bed, steps/mm on extruder). It is printing a 20x20mm test cube now and looks good so far. I disconnected the limit switches on X and Y and use the stall detection feature of the drivers. The BLTouch is handling the homing on Z, so that limit switch is also removed. I also ordered a BTT filament detect sensor and will install that next. This seems to be a great upgrade to the old Creality v1.1.5 board. I now have the memory for more features. I'm going to add an enclosure and chamber heater soon and may add the neopixel LED's just for the cool factor. I'm a happy customer!

Nice board good design but very little in was of tech info and was a real pain to get working. TMC2209's are also barely supported properly in marlin so if I had to choose again I would wait or go with the 1.3 like I ended up doing. Also be very careful plugging the board into the computer, the usb port on the 1.4 cooked and was useless.

My Delta was in need of an upgraded motherboard for various reasons. I created a custom build of Marlin 2.0 using the examples/delta/Anycubic/Kossel configuration as a starting point. The ample amount of 512 kB of CPU flash memory is more than enough to fit my custom Marlin build. The TMC2209 drivers are as quiet as they say. I never really cared about the noise before. But wow, compared to being practically silent, I'll never go back. My prints are more reliable than ever. This has been the best upgrade for my printer yet and the price is right!

Used this board to upgrade an older Prusa clone (Aurora z605) which had a bad Melzi board on it. I had to add connectors on my wires and remove the connector shrouds on the board in order to connect, but they came off with minimal effort. The building of the firmware was fairly straight forward when you watch videos online (but I code for a living). So far the board does not get hot, but I havent built anything past an hour so far. It has many ports available for adding on to the system.

This board is truly amazing. Any feature you can think of can be enabled in the Marlin firmware on this board and it just keeps chugging along! You get SIX motor outputs allowing dual Z axis lead screws as well as dual extruders at the same time! (Though do note that a dual Z setup still uses a single driver. If you want to use auto leveling using Marlin's G34 command you're going to have to sacrifice one of the extruder drivers and outputs and repurpose it for a dedicated second Z motor) There are also tons of fan outputs: I believe there are four in total, two of which are PWM enabled so you can control their speeds. The included TMC2209 drivers are also really useful, allowing sensorless homing and TMC diagnostics while printing. All of the outputs on the board are JST connectors instead of the typical DuPont style, so there's no need to worry that your connections are going to "falling out" after installation. One thing to note on this board is that the integrated MOSFETs for heating the hotend and the bed are only rated for 10A and I suspect this is one of the main reasons that some of the reviewers here have had their boards blown after a short time. I would strongly recommend using external MOSFET modules for these two critical areas, even if your bed only draws about 9A of current. I've also seen people complain online about an issue with the Z endstop pins, but I didn't face any issues when I installed mine. Everything just seemed to work. Unless I've been very fortunate, I've had no issues at all with this board and would love to get another one for my other printer. As long as you take your time and know what you're doing, you won't have any issues with these boards.

a ceser de fonctionner appres 6 mois.

The first one arrived dead, and I had a good long time trying to debug i, just to realize that nothing was happening as I was trying to flash it. The second one I got worked --- it was a huge pain to set up and configure, but the end result is great. The steppers run so much quieter now, compared to being driven with my old drivers, I can't go back to A4988s now. I definitely recommend this board, now that it's up and running I love it.

Having used several BTT boards, creality and smoothie, i've experienced a handful of "faulty" boards but this one takes the cake, use an skr e3 v3 for my ender3 and it works brilliantly, figured this was a nice step up from that to have 6 lines from 4 with 5 dedicated... 4 fan headers up from 3 (and originally 2!) was bonus, drivers were swappable, what could't be great about it! EVERYTHING. Bent contacts on teh drivers, they also expect you to decide right then and there with only a difficult repair to undo if you want UART sensor less end stops because you have to cut the pin if you don't in marlin, luckily i use Klipper and Klipper doesn't care if it's present, it just ignores it if it isn't being used. after dozens of back and forths and trials with marlin too got firmware working and loaded and firmly at 115200 baud on any of the measly 3 options of serial addresses to access... skr e3 v3 has 5 uart+usb and 4 alternate contact points you can use depending on what you have hooked up... but doesn't matter, senseless fails like a hot mess, ends top signals don't work at all well either as little scorch marks appear across the board as they burn out. random faults and errors, swapped power supply and monitored voltages and all steady but then you watch this thing do PWM and boy does it radically fly around as it does so... clearly the main controller was the source of the primary defect as voltages on the 3.3 and 5v lines fling around Wildy until this afternoon when "what's that smell" as you turn and see the motors coming to a hyper slow standstill as smoke starts pouring from under the drivers and then POP something short circuited big time internally as a couple little arcs lit up across the board and scorched this sucker to death... now I'm no stranger to circuits or loads... and this thing was not heating the bed or hot end... it was calibrating.. after sitting off idling and failing to heat the hotend twice getting halfway to temp before stalling.... and now i know why... but go onto amazon to return it and... oh not eligible for returns... cool... thanks for the $110 down the toilet... going to have to re-examine how great the e3v3 is but looking at the horror story hits vs misses I'm thinking my first buy was largely fluke.

Took me a day or so to get marlin compiled for my Ender 5, but after some tweaks it’s been working well. One issue I’ve had though, is the fuse for he heat bed blew after a few weeks. It could be my fault as I hadn’t tuned the PID yet. The fuses, unlike the skr 1.4 which uses automotive mini fuses, the ones on the skr 2 are SMD surface mount fuses. Not easy to come by and had to be ordered online. After this is replaced all should be back to normal. I wish the board came with a few spares though.