Simpson Strong-Tie CPFH09KT Crack-Pac Flex-H2O 9 oz. Polyurethane Crack Sealer Injection Kit (2 Cartridges)

I have a basement crack that stayed dry for years and only started leaking slightly a few months ago. I knew this product from a friend long time back and when it happened I decided to give it a try. Before the purchase when comparing between the epoxy version and this one, I received a few advices from people around and the conclusion is simple : if it isn't a structural problem (which it wasn't for me, fortunately) and you don't want to or can't seal the other side of the wall, use the foam. Thus I bought this. I live in greater Boston area and I ordered it in Jan when everything was frozen after a big rain (yes, a rain in January before the historical snowfalls were recorded later the same year). So the ground temperature was probably below or close to freezing. I called the customer service and they suggested if the temperature inside is above 40 it is good. Although I didn't take the chance and waited until late March instead, when the snow was almost gone and outside temperature was around 50. Basement temperature was always about 55 to 60 so there wasn't any problem there. Anyway I agree with most of other reviewers that this thing does work. Plus I have a few additional things/tips to share here. 1. Pay extra care when you attach those ports, I only figured out that most of my leaking holes happen around the ports during the foam injection. Seal the port's base completely before moving to next one. 2. Only mix a small portion of the epoxy. You will have at least 5 mins to use them so don't hurry yourself. Also don't worry about the epoxy may run out -- it probably wont. My wall is 8 feet tall and now I still have about 1/5 to a quarter left in jars after the job was done. 3. Do inject water through ports first. Put aside the needed moisture, water could be an indication that the foam is moving up -- before the poly, you will see water coming out of the port above the one that is accepting your injection. 4. When injecting the last port (the highest one), be careful about overflow as there won't be any indication of "enough". I made a little mess there when the fluid flew over out of the top of the wall even if I sealed the crack there too. Overall it is a great product and relatively easy to apply, as long as you follow instructions and tips posted here and by other reviewers. After another few rainfalls and snow melting, my crack is still dry, more importantly the concrete around the crack is dry too -- my moisture detector shows right after a big rain the place where the water was seeping through (the dark area you can seein my photo) was only about 8% to 9%. By comparisons it was above 15% when it leaked. Only hoping it can last long as well. Good luck. Update 04/21/2015 : I wanted to remove the paste-over. So after it was completely dry -- about two weeks later, I used a steal putty knife and a hammer to chop off most of the paste-overs, then sanded the surface a bit. It cost me about another hour. But the result looks good (picture 3) . When the paste-over is off I can see the fillings in the crack. Yesterday it was a big rain storm in Boston area, and it had no leak whatsoever. So I guess I did my job well. Update 04/14/2016 : After one year, it stays sealed. More importantly the crack stays dry all year long. It really sealed the gap. No water has found its way in to my basement. Therefore I am very happy about the product.

While I normally hate when people include reviews of the merchants in their product reviews; I think it is appropriate here. If it were not for the help of Customer Service at FastoolNow I would have purchased the non-expanding, ETIPAC10, and would not have had as good of a product experience. After explaining my situation, that I had cracks in my foundation footing, but because of concrete rat pack on the inside I could not paste over both sides completely, it was advised that I used the expanding H2O Polyurethane version instead. The product worked better than expected. I highly recommend watching the Simpson Strong Tie instructional video [...]. Preparation is everything, get everything ready before you attempt to mix any epoxy, either for patch over or the filler. I found that a wire brush and a can of compressed air prepped the surface the best, as opposed to water from a hose or a vacuum. I would say that the hardening time for the patch over material is strongly understated. I found that even in 60 degree Fahrenheit, not in direct sunlight, and with a decent humidity that the resin still harden in about 10 minutes (about 5 minutes to mix and 10 to apply). I also found that while they give you two sets of crack filling tubes, the single set of patch over was only enough for one crack filling tube worth of patch over material and ports (I have one set of crack filling tubes and half the plastic ports left over (that is because I patched over both sides of the crack as much as possible)... so I am buying more patch over separately so I can use the rest of the crack filler. I do highly recommend trying to expose as much of the crack as possible and patching it over before you attempt filling. Even though this stuff is expanding, it is still pretty much a liquid initially, and it surprisingly does go through the entire crack fully. I saw the excess coming out at the both the top and bottom of my patch over on the inside and outside. I do recommend having about quantity 6+ of 8in x 8in or larger cardboard sheets ready to mix the epoxy patch over on (I only made about 1-part each golf ball sized amount at a time), the popsicle sticks are pretty useless and break easily (I would recommend using the Bondo Squeegee Body Filler Spreader instead to apply and maybe even to mix with (you can get that at any auto store), and use a thicker latex glove or have extra available as the ones they supply are the thinnest possible and will tear easily.

My sister called me explaining she had gotten multiple quotes to repair a non-structural crack running floor to ceiling in her basement foundation wall, with water seeping in at the bottom... The lowest quote was $1,500 and that was only because she said "they felt bad for her and gave her a discounted rate". They also effectively admitted they were going to use an extremely similar product; not even the epoxy type which is clearly more expensive and actually bonds the structure! Simpson Strong-Tie is a very reputable company that has been around many years now and while I found the product pricey initially, I now consider it very fair having used it for the very first time! This is not a homeowner junk kit, but a professional product with extreme thought put into the packaging, instructions and process! I was able to do the entire job in under an hour of work time with a generic caulk gun, albeit a very good one. I charged my sister $500 total labor and materials... Isn't me a great guy?? 😜 (As a final note for people curious how this works, I was unable to get access to the last foot of crack below ground level so I simply went as high as I could with the injection port; when the process was completed I went outside the house to find that the product had made its way not only through the entire 8-in concrete foundation wall but all the way up to a full foot and a half _above ground level! This is _beyond their specifications which tells you that they're being cautious in their claims... It's an even better product and process than they make it out to be!)

Easy to follow directions and found a video or two on YouTube.the house was built in 1959. The photo is before I used the product. It was fill with a flexible Masonary caulk of some sort in the 90s at least. Poured foundation. We had a egress window installed. Crack was patched by egress guys sice they had the machines to dig. The was barely noticeable outside but wide and deep on the inside. Crack was 1inch wide and at least 1/2 deep in parts before I used a v notch grinder disc to clean up the crack for best penetration of the product. I used a mesh tape so I did didn’t fill the crack with epoxy putty. Since the crack was wide and deep it used 90% of the epoxy putty. Worked nice. Wish it was in a tube with mixing straw for easier application. Set’s pretty quickly, which meant working on small batches. The polyurethane solution that inserts into ports sets at a nice speed. Little messes but works amazing! Very deep penetration. Haven’t had any leaks! The product itself is five stars but like I stated earlier the two part epoxy tube with mixing straw would’ve made the application on a horizontal surface a lot easier and less messy. Plus, it would’ve given the correct ratio of resin to Hardner for a better faster cure time. Other than that, I don’t complain about it.

My leaky foundation crack started the top right corner and bottom left corner of the basement window well all the way down to the floor. I got a couple of estimates and both companies were asking $900.00. So I went to Google to see what I could find and here I am. This was so easy to do. Total time, prep to clean up was 3.5 hours on a cold Saturday morning. The lower crack cut through the bumpy seams of the concrete forms. I cold chiseled the seam as smooth as I could get, but it was not ideal. I wire brushed the crack area, which created lots of concrete dust. Wear a mask when you do this. One section of the crack was so bumpy, I had to trim the base of the injection port so it would seat more flush. I epoxied each of the ports in place. Careful not to put the port to close to floor, you need some room to work with the epoxy. Mix a small amount of epoxy but it will take longer, as the stuff does harden in about 5 minutes to the point you cannot spread it very well. Tip, Get a box of disposable gloves so you change out the gloves quickly when you get to much on the gloves, you'll go through them quickly. After the ports were epoxied in, I started to seal the crack. I radiated out from the port and stayed on a 2-3 inch line to the next port. I was mixing just enough epoxy for each run between the ports. At the window frame corners, I spread the epoxy over the metal frame. I used roughly 70% of the epoxy in the containers. I started the water filling of the ports. This is where the kit needs some improvement because it does not provide a good method to fill the ports. I took a turkey baster and piece of rubber tubing and combined it with the kits tubing. My crack initially took a lot of water before coming out the port above. As expected, I had a water leak coming out at the frame, so I added more epoxy to that area. Amazingly, the concrete seam that I straddled with the injectors were functioning properly. I was ready to start injecting the polyurethane at this point. Works exactly as everyone in this blog states. I didn't think any was going in because the caulk gun trigger was hard to pull. The viscosity of the stuff is deceiving. Next thing I know is the foam is coming out of the port above and quickly moved to the next port. TIP: Hold the port in with while you are injecting because the back pressure of a small crack will push the port in the closed position. After all the ports were filled, Green foam was visible through the edge of the window frame. Small holes in the concrete also oozzed the blue/green foam. It was awesome. The visible foam is a good indicator that the urethane is expanding and sealing. It continues to expand slowly for another 5 minutes. Here's were I deviated from the instructions. I left the injection ports in. You won't be disappointed in the product, and yes, you can do it yourself. There's even a couple of YouTube videos to increase your confidence and save yourself a lot of money.

We've used 2 of these kits and only wish I had known about them sooner. Why the kits aren't on store shelves, I don't know. It's brilliant, fairly easy, and the bottom line is: IT WORKS TO STOP WATER. Don't hesitate to try this method. As with so many things, preparation of the work area is KEY! Epoxy tips: Use a little epoxy at a time, or you'll waste it, and there isn't enough extra to do that. Once it hardens in a few minutes, it's no good and you have to mix more. I would mix (on throwaway cardboard) about the same volume that would fit inside a peanut butter jar lid. The wooden sticks supplied work fine until the epoxy starts to harden. Use 3 sticks. One for each container plus one to mix with. If the sticks mix, then you'll have chunks hardening in the container and you don't want chunks! Sturdier sticks are better but not necessary. Always use gloves. Buy extra, as the ones supplied are fairly poor. The epoxy will tear up your skin if it dries on it, and there's no good way to get it off. Before you even think about prepping the polyurethane, test your epoxy seal by running water through the open ports. This validates the consistency of the crack and seal of the epoxy. I utilized a small medicine syringe (maybe 5 oz?) filled with water. If it leaks through the epoxy seal, fix it and wait 10 minutes and do it again. Otherwise the poly will leak out too and not only does it create a yucky new mess, you won't get the sealed pressure needed to push upwards to the next port. A couple of pinhole leaks won't be a major problem but focus on the bottom of the crack and any large (>1 mm) leaks. The water is also necessary for the poly to react and begin foaming. If you have corner cracks, get the corner ports (EIPX-EZ). Would be nice if they included some, but just know that the flat ones are impossible to get into a corner. They have to be drilled into the wall but that's not hard with a masonry bit (1/2" I think?). Be sure to blow out the hole with compressed air before applying the epoxy. Prep enough crack and get enough ports ready to do the whole poly tube or you'll waste it too. Once the tip/nozzle hose gets clogged with foam it's a mess and potentially impossible to get it flowing again. Start applying at the bottom. Once the poly flows into the port, keep going until the caulk gun has a considerable amount of pressure. If you see major leaks, you'll have to stop and re-seal. Again, minor leaks (<1mm) probably aren't enough to stop. Be patient, keep the pressure on, and in about 4-5 minutes, poly and water will start to drip out of the port above it (and it's a great feeling!). When that happens, the foam has worked its way through the voids in the crack, and it's time to move up. Once it comes out the top...you're done! Again, the bottom line is that it works. I had tried hydraulic cement on one crack and despite a lot of work it never really fixed the issue. Anyway, after applying the poly, I waited for a big rain and found 2 smaller cracks that I had not seen before, but the bigger cracks were dry!

This stuff works great. I followed the easy to understand instructions and within an hour, I was done with a crack thar spanned the entire height of my foundation. The gray epoxy dried quickly so I was able to start using the crack pac quickly. It's been over a year since I used it and even in the heaviest rain, there have been no leaks. This is by far the best and cheapest solution to fixing a crack in your foundation. It's very flexible so there is no need to worry about temperature fluctuations.

Well I just installed this product 4 weeks ago you can see a before and after photo..The crack was 8 feet long top to bottom and had a fairly good leak every rainstorm. I did a alot of research on so many ways to fix this crack but finally went with the big name brand. I did have a 2nd person helping me because you need to work quickly when filling the ports..I also recommend purchasing extra epoxy it's bare minimum coverage with the two cans in the kit. We installed all the ports and then covered all of the crack with the epoxy. After the cure time we shot water into the ports to confirm no leaks and this product os water activated so it needs to be wet.. The two tube's of polyurethane is good enough for the 8 foot crack we used it all. Start at the bottom port and work your way up to the top. I also purchased a large syringe to squit the water into the crack thru the ports. I'm amazed how well ot worked, I ran a garden hose on the outside wall for 3 hours a week later after fully cured and I have no water leak anymore. Please read the instructions carefully in detail and watch a few you tube videos then you will be more confident of making the repairs like I did. I was quoted $1,000 for the repair I did myself. I also installed 15 steel beams to support the foundation wall the contractor quoted me $12,000 for that we did it for around $3,000 in materials. Good luck fixing your leak this product worked great for me.

Works well. We had to order more nipples as our cracks are not straight. We keep buying another pack. My husband likes it.

Fast delivery, worked well.

BEWARE this item is not RETURNABLE. I bought this but found some pros to fix my leak instead. Amazon will not allow returns on some BS excuse that it is a hazardous material. Wish they had this warning as the top line for this item.