Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.5 * 2.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera

I bought this power supply to replace another power supply that had caused major havoc with my computer. This power supply works wonderfully! I recently bought a cheap 12 volt power supply (that LOOKED a lot like this one but was NOT this one) to replace the wimpy power supply that came with the Lepai 2020A+ amplifier I connect to my Apple iMac. The very first time I went to plug in the audio cord to the computer there was a spark from the plug to computer and the computer went dead. Three weeks and $850 later to replace the logic board and the power supply in my Mac I had my Mac back. During that three weeks I learned that SOME power supplies have half of the supply voltage floating on the DC negative side of the output. That's why when I plugged that cheap power supply into my computer it sent 65 volts AC from the 12v negative side through the ground of my computer and fried it. When I received this one I was very reluctant to test it with my amplifier computer combination because I shouldn't afford another $850 repair bill. And when I measured AC volts from the DC negative to the ground pin on the power plug I was reading 44 volts AC! But then I remembered that my meter has a very high input impedance which means that if I hold the leads with my hands it'll measure that much AC floating in my body..... but if you load that down with even a 4,700 ohm load that voltage drops to zero. Well, I didn't have a 4,700 ohm resistor but I did have a 3,900 ohm resistor that I placed across the meter leads to load it down and bleed of the floating voltage. As soon as I did that the voltage I read from DC negative to AC ground dropped to .124 volts (1/8th of a volt) ! Now I knew I could trust it and I connected it to the amplifier and everything worked just fine. The moral of this story is "Don't trust just any power supply. They are NOT created equal." (even if they have the same electrical ratings) You can trust THIS power supply ! In fact, I have purchased two more to use on my other two Lepai amplifiers. (By the way .... don't let the picture shown here on Amazon fool you. It DOES have a 3-prong plug so that the power supply IS grounded. (the one that fried my computer did not have a 3-prong plug)

Love it because it makes running 12V stuff inside easier. Will buy another when needed just because they’re that good of quality.

After the power supply went bad on a Eva-dry EVD-2200 dehumidifier I was looking for a replacement. I found this 12 Volt, 6 Amp power supply and decided I would rather give it a try than replace the dehumidifier. The cord end didn't matter to me as I was going to cut it off and reuse the plug for the dehumidifier. The dehumidifier works and this adapter saved me from having to by another $80 dehumidifier. I haven't tested to see how much current it is really providing but it is working fine and only gets slightly warm (which makes me think the dehumidifier is drawing less than 6 amps). Anyway, this has been running 24/7 for nearly a month with no troubles. EDIT: After running for just under 2 months my GFCI outlet tripped. Resetting the outlet and plugging in again gave the same problem. I tested the power supply and found out that it was producing a sine wave which ranged from 8.2V to 10.8V. Opened it up and found that one of the rectifiers has blown up. The dehumidifier was drawing about 5.2 amps which was too close to this units rated output. I'll have to find another one.

I'm using these as a power supply for LED string lights, and thus far they are working great for me. A couple of suggestions if this is your application also. First, don't try to use a 6A power supply if you have a continuous draw of 6A from the lights. You're asking for trouble, through early failure of the power supply and/or possibly burning the power supply up. Especially considering that these are Chinese sourced, I would only recommend drawing 50 - 75% of what the power source is rated at, or 3 - 4.5A in this case. That way, you have a much better chance of only having to install these once, which is the goal, right? Second suggestion - if you're connecting multiple strings to a single power source, connect them in parallel rather than in series. That means, don't connect one string to the end of another string, but run wire from the power supply to each of the LED strips separately. That will shorten the delay you see when switching the lights on, and you should also see less dimming from one end of the strips to the other. Regarding my second suggestion, I've seen different explanations for that delay you may notice when switching on LED string lights; I think I can state for certain (at least in my case) that it's caused by the electronics in the string lights themselves, rather than the power source. I have one situation where I have a single power source powering three light strings in parallel, which are cut to lengths of approximately 5, 10 and 16 feet. Every time I switch them on, the 5' length comes on first, with the 10' length coming on after a brief (1/4 second or so) delay, and the 16' length comes on after an additional brief delay. Happens every time, gotta be the lights.

I've had a Lepai mini-amplifier for about 3 years. Functionally, it did what I needed but it would keep cutting out if turned the volume beyond about 45%. I would have to dial it back to about 40% for it to stay on. That was OK if I was somewhat close to the speakers but if I was a bit further away, the volume was insufficient. I found it very odd that the amp would cut out at such a small volume setting. Normally an amp should be able to get up to at least 80% and then it may start to distort rather than cut out. I figured that the power output of the amp was less than spec, although that didn't really make sense - you'd still expect to turn up to 80%, just with less volume. So, a few days ago, I had a look around for a more powerful amp. Although, some amps stated more power in the summary, most were actually the same power output in the specs. But as I was reading reviews, one reviewer explained that the power supply that came with his amp was not sufficient for his amp. I went off and checked mine and it was only a 2A supply and from the experience of others, it seemed that 3A was a minimum, with 5A being a better choice. Rather than buy a new amp, I decided to try this solution. Even if I bought a new amp, I would still need this power supply for amps that don't come with power supply or have one that is too low powered, so there wasn't much to loose, especially for $10. This turned out to be the answer, so I'm grateful to that reviewer because I would never have thought of this option. Some people have had bad experiences with this supply at higher output levels, but I don't expect to have any such issues with my amp and am very happy to have solved a niggling problem.

I got this for my Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5” SATA HDD External Enclosure as the old power supply replacement stopped working after 2 years. I had to get an adapter to 4 pin mini din connector and so far it seems to be working good. I hope it lasts longer than the last one. I think the original power supply that came with the unit was good, but I got some bad advise when troubleshooting it and ended up replacing it, where the original problem was with the power supply. I fear I may have to replace the power supply every couple of years now.

Died completely after just 9 months of very limited use. When it was working, it seemed to do ok powering my 3 small LED video lights. After it broke I pulled the case apart to see if it would be an easy fix of a blown component or something. I can't find anything wrong based on a visual inspection - no broken contacts, leaky capacitors, cold solder joints, vaporized parts or scorch marks on the board. I guess I can't complain too much for a $9 power supply, but it would have been nice to get at least a couple years out of it. I think all told it was in use for maybe 40-50 hours. Also, my version came with a 3 prong grounded plug, but the ground wire doesn't actually connect to the circuit anywhere, it just ends at the plug.

The one I received has 3 prongs and no "Kastar" label. I only used it for white LED strip light (about 13-14 feet) and I made sure I have less that 4A load on it (around 3A). I saw some post that measured the max load to be 4A so, just to be safe, I stayed beyond it's limits. Using my kill-a-watt, It is measuring at 0.3-0.4 watt with no load consumption which maybe because of the LED light to indicate power is on. My Motorola 12v 3A router's PS registered "0" with no load. It gets hot after a few minutes of use but that seems normal. I just make sure it is not next to any drapes just in case. I purchased a used higher capacity power supply from Craigslits and the person I bought if from is a professional LED strip light installer. He gave a good point to use UL listed PS from old monitors/PC. Not only that it's cheaper, it's reliable, and not a fire hazard. The one I bought doesn't even gets hot. After some browsing in ebay, I could have gotten it even cheaper, but it did not even come to my mind of getting those and replacing the end connectors with DC power plugs.

Es lo que necesitaba ! Excelente!

It is the right connector for my led light strip.

Not really sure, as I bought it with to go with a Mini-Box picoPSU-90, but it won't power on my Gigabyte J1900N-D3V.